I Tried To Blow Up My Steyr M357 Pistol

petej88

New member
I have faith in the Steyr M series. So I did the following tests to check out the Steyr M357:

1. Live out of battery test
2. bullet setback testing with No. 9 powder.

Summary: The Steyr worked flawlessly for me. It shot in full battery mode only. And the Steyr took all the full power proof loads of bullet setback cartridges like a breeze. And after 2000 rounds, all parts look good.

Detail of all the testing follows:

When you rack the slide back in slow motion about 1/4", it sticks in place. As soon as the slide sticks in this position, the load indicator at the back of the slide shows empty. At any position prior to the 1/4" position, the slide easily moves back to full battery and continues to show a round in the chamber via the load indicator.

So I went to the range and did some "live" out of battery testing. Don't you try this. You have to either have a lot of faith in your interpretation of how the pistol functions, or be crazy. I fit both statements. You don't. :)

1. I pulled the slide back about 1/4" where it normally sticks. I pulled the trigger. It did not fire. I then extracted the cartridge to examine it. It had a very light primer strike way off to the side, which could not come close to striking the primer hard enough for a reaction. I did this same test 9 more times. Each time, the exact same scenario, sometimes even reusing the same cartridge a couple times.

2. I then moved the slide back 1/8" very slowly. This was a little trickier since the slide kept wanting to close. If I moved in "slow" motion, I could get it to work, sometimes. I pulled the trigger. It did not fire. Again, there was a very light primer strike off to the side. I did this same test several more times. Each time, the exact same scenario.

3. I then pulled the slide back about 1/16". This was very, very difficult because the slide would just jump back to full battery. If I moved very slowly I could sometimes pull the trigger before the slide moved. The trigger action or normal hand movement would be enough to move the slide to full battery. Several times though, I could not keep the slide back 1/16" and it would jump into full battery. When the gun fired each time, the casing had deep primer dents right in the middle of the primer as expected.

Then of course, I did my usual massive firing sequences in normal mode. The M357 worked flawlessly. I now have 1700 rounds through it, including some very high pressure test rounds as described below. Again, don't you try these tests.

Every gun I've ever tested has a little bit of play in the full battery mode.

Regarding holstering a pistol: I learned a long time ago with my Glock 35, to always put my thumb behind the slide to hold it in place as I holstered the pistol. Otherwise, the pistol might not fire when you drew it to shoot.

In the 12 o'clock slow motion test (empty chamber), the slide can stick out of battery if you very slowly move the slide back a little. But, if you move the slide back an inch and let the recoil spring work as engineered, the slide closes perfectly in the 12 o'clock position every time.

To check a round in the chamber, the Steyr is obviously made to take advantage of the load indicator in the back of the slide. Or you can look down the drill hole in the top of the slide to see a cartridge. As long as the Steyr is operated as it is intended, it appears to work excellently for me.

In summary:
-----------

As expected, I could not get the Steyr M357 to fire out of battery. I feel that the M357 is working within a safe level of mechanical parameters unless someone can prove me wrong.

Bullet Setback Testing with Acurate Arms #9
-------------------------------------------

WARNING: I do not recommend the following tests to be performed by anyone!. You are responsible for your own actions!

I chrono'd some loads with an overall length of 1.135, some at 1.126, and then I actually pushed the bullet in as far as possible until it fully compressed the powder. The powder was the only thing holding the bullet in place!

In order to simulate the bullet setback, I had to bell the case a bit, no cannelure was used, and of course no crimp at all. I also used old brass since bullet slippage is easier when the brass is not new. I then used a Dillon flat wrench to help me push the bullet into the case, using a cement floor for leverage. Don't try this folks!

oal = overall cartridge length
357 SIG OAL normally runs between 1.120 to 1.140.

At 13.0 grains of #9, the bullet could be forced in to an oal between 1.1195 - 1.235.
At 12.6 grains, the bullet could be forced in to an oal between 1.1115 - 1.116.
At 12.2 grains, between 1.0975 - 1.1055.

I repeat, the compressed powder was the only thing holding the bullet in place, by forcing a bullet setback!!!

The bullet setback results:

At 13.0 of #9:
1.135 oal velocity average: 1265 fps
1.126 oal velocity average: 1266 fps
bullet setback cartridge average: 1272 fps

At 12.6
(12.7) 1.135 oal velocity average: 1234 fps
1.126 oal velocity average: 1227 fps
bullet setback cartridge average: 1245 fps

At 12.2
(12.1) 1.135 oal velocity average: 1165 fps
1.126 oal velocity average: 1188 fps
bullet setback average: 1214 fps

In all the above tests, the brass looked normal and measured identical between the normal and bullet setbacked loadings. Perceived recoil between the loadings appeared to be similar. I'll be contacting AA to find out if they can do some pressure testing with #9 with shorter OAL's.

What's interesting is that the velocities between oal's with 1.135, 1.126 and the fully setback loads are all fairly similar.

Summary:

I could not blow up my Steyr M357. It should be noted that the Steyr chamber is somewhat unique regarding pistols. A cartridge is fully supported all the way around the chamber, including the 6 o'clock chamber opening, which is the usual weak spot for pistols. This is where the feed ramp joins the chamber and exposes some brass for most other pistols.

AA#9 appears to not only power the bullets sufficiently, but has a dual purpose of holding the bullet in place if bullet slippage should occur. The new AA Reloading Manual also states that #9 actually compresses with the bullet insertion process and the powder actually works quite well.

I did notice that some of the unburnt AA#9 powder did end up on my chronograph ten feet away. At first, I thought it was just a little dust. So, even if you miss the bad guy, you can temporarily blind him by throwing powder in his face.

Note: Since I normally use a cannelure grooved bullet and a roll crimp, I am more than satisfied that this process alone is sufficient and safe to shoot 357 SIG reloads. The above test with #9 is just a secondary defense which might be of use.

Note: I have a much more complete description of this article, with charts, at my site below. I hope to have the information completed within a few days.

cheers,
pete



[Edited by petej88 on 12-02-2000 at 12:28 PM]
 
I finished the #9 Bullet Setback article. You can read it at my site below. Here's a quick listing of a text based bullet setback chart for each charge weight I tested.

Note: Some of the Bullet Setback Cartridge Length measurements are below the minimum OAL length for a 357 SIG cartridge! An OAL of 1.120" is generally considered the shortest for a 124 grain bullet!

Grains
High Vel.
Low Vel.
Extr. Sprd.
Avg. Vel.
Std. Dev.
OAL (Bullet Setback Cartridge Length)

*11.9
1244
1195
49
1218
15
1.083 - 1.089

12.1
1231
1220
11
1226
5
1.093 - 1.097

12.2
1221
1202
19
1214
7
1.098 - 1.106

12.6
1254
1232
22
1245
10
1.112 - 1.116

13.0
1287
1254
33
1272
12
1.117 - 1.121

13.4
1347
1326
21
1333
8
1.121 - 1.124

13.7
1371
1355
16
1359
6
1.127 - 1.130

14.0
1400
1378
22
1387
8
1.132 - 1.135

14.3
1431
1418
13
1425
4
1.135 - 1.138

14.6
1452
1438
14
1446
5
1.139 - 1.141
 
See why I never want to work for IBM??? They make you do crazy things!! :-)

Very crazy Pete, and let me restate:

Kids, do NOT try this at home...

Albert
 
twoblink, What you said :)

the last crazy round of bullet setback testing:

Addendum: Well, #9 appears to give a nice wide range of 357 SIG velocities from 1082 - 1468 fps, from a 4" barrel. And it appears to uniquely handle bullet setback well. I decided to do one more test of bullet setback by changing the bullet type and the brand of 357 SIG cases....

Component Combination Test

The combination of components can make all the difference in the world. And changing just one component can make a huge difference. As an example I decided to do a bullet setback test using six different brands of 357 SIG brass. I also tested the difference between a Rainier 124 grain flat point bullet and a West Coast 124 grain flat point bullet using Starline brass. Just to make it interesting, I then took the chrono statistics after shooting one of each of these rounds:

#9 Charge Weight: 12.1

(Case Brand) (Bullet Setback OAL) Velocity Bullet

FC (1.079, 1.082 *L) 1214 Rainier
Hornady (1.059, 1.059 *L) 1171 Rainier
RP (1.075, 1.076 *L) 1180 Rainier
Starline (1.097, 1.099) 1201 Rainier
Starline (1.095, 1.096) 1197 West Coast
Speer (1.072, 1.082 *L) 1186 Rainier
Winchester (1.096, 1.095) 1193 Rainier

*L refers to the fact that the normal part of the bullet that is crimped is "Low" and inside the case, although most of the cone shaped nose is still outside the case! How many of you would fire such a bullet? Hopefully, none!

Bullet setback chart stats, from the above multi brand cases:

Grains High Low (Extr. Sprd.) Avg. (Std. Dev.)

12.1 1214 1171 43 1191 14


I then fired two groups of normal loads, using 11.9 and 12.1 grains with a maximum OAL of 1.140, for comparison:

Grains High Low (Extr. Sprd.) Avg. (Std. Dev.)

11.9 1137 1122 15 1131 5
12.1 1181 1125 56 1156 23


Results:

Notice the wide difference in the OAL's of the various brass brands. This could make a huge difference, especially if using faster burning powders. Notice there is only a 4 fps difference between the Rainier and the West Coast bullets, and the OAL's are almost identical as well.

I did notice that some of the unburnt AA#9 powder did end up on my chronograph ten feet away. At first, I thought it was just a little dust. So, even if you miss the bad guy, you can temporarily blind him by throwing powder in his face.

Since I normally use a cannelure grooved bullet and a strong roll crimp, I am more than satisfied that this process alone is sufficient and safe to shoot 357 SIG reloads. The above test with #9 is just a secondary insurance measure, which might be of use.

Then again, there will be some folks who prefer a powder that uses less grains per load in order to save money For example, a maximum charge of 5.8 grains of Universal produces a clean burning, mellow 9mm like recoil (average of 1118 fps and a power factor of 138). Compare that with an almost equivalent recoil produced by 11.9 grains of #9 (oal 1.140; average 1131 fps; power factor: 140). You decide.

Note: I have only tested a few bullets that work well with a cannelure groove and/or a strong roll crimp: Rainier 124 fp, West Coast 124 fp, Oregon Trail Laser-Cast 122 fp, and the Speer 125 Gold Dot HP. Hard plated and hard jacketed bullets require a light crimp, otherwise the case can be damaged/wrinkled. And basically very little or no bell can be used, in order to hold the bullet in place better. Yet from my experience, the hard bullets still do not hold as well as the softer plated bullets, especially when reusing fired brass.

I use a Dillon 550. When I say, "no or very little bell", I mean this: On the powder bar is a little square piece of white plastic. When initially setting up your powder drop system, in order for the powder to drop consistently, this white square most travel the entire length and touch the far wall. When you have the powder die adjusted so this happens, then tighten the die down. This is basically the tightest that you can make it. If you measure the case mouth, it will probably measure aprox. .375 - .376. Since the Rainier and West Coast bullets have a beveled bottom, they are still easy to seat into the case. After seating the bullet, the mouth will expand to around .379.

I never thought I'd be saying this. But I feel that I can reload the 357 SIG caliber "without" a cannelure groove when I'm using Accurate Arms #9 powder, because of the bullet setback security. Now, that does not mean I'm going to get sloppy and not be concerned about holding the bullet securely in the neck. This is simply what works for me. I make no guarantees whatsoever of how it will work for you. But I am glad to share this knowledge with you. Take care and be safe.

A complete detailed html version of all this testing is at my web site:

------------------
My Site: http://home.earthlink.net/~petej55


[Edited by petej88 on 12-02-2000 at 12:38 PM]
 
Hey Pete,

I don't know if you remember or not, but a while back, I posted the fact that someone told me they would never buy a Glock because when it's cold, and muddy outside, that a little water on the trigger could freeze the trigger safety, and thus render the gun useless.

I don't have the guts to try that test on my Steyr, but seeing as you are just plain crazy with your gun test(s), care to try?

Someone put a little water on their glock trigger, and then put it in the freezer, and said 3 hours later, that the Glock, indeed, did NOT fire, he couldn't get the firing pin to fire, because the trigger was frozen in place, and couldn't bypass the trigger safety.

So Pete, if you are wild enough to do that, let me know the results! Put a little water (make sure that no bullets are in there and the gun is not loaded!!) but put a little water on the trigger after it's been cocked, and freeze it for a while. Hell, if you are brave, drip some water down the railing, reassemble the gun, and freeze it. See if 1) The trigger will pull i.e. the gun will fire, and 2) The slide will rack if you put water on the rails.

I figure since you are trying to destroy your gun, might as well start suggesting tests to you...

Shoot safe!!!
Albert
 
twoblink,

Thanks for the offer. But the mud and water freezing thing sounds too boring. I could get any pistol to freeze up eventually. You might pop an email off to GSI and see if they can compare the Steyr and Glock trigger systems. The Steyr version looks a bit more robust to me, but I'm prejudiced.

Actually, I'm just really happy that I found a powder that produces good velocity and bullet setback security for the 357 SIG. And I'm very pleased that the Steyr M357 is built very solid and works great :)

cheers,
pete
 
Actually, I'm back from the front lines now. I'm glad I survived. And I'm back to shooting like a normal person again. :)

I also emailed my No. 9 data to Accurate Arms. And they are checking it out.

[Edited by petej88 on 11-28-2000 at 06:47 PM]
 
Has Steyr passed the DOJ of Kalifornia's stupid test? Just heard that Glocks passed. Pete, do you know if Steyr has submitted the M and S series for testing???

Albert
 
Since I don't live in CA or MA, I haven't kept up on the details. But a couple months ago, GSI did mention that they were working on conforming to the more strict state laws. I haven't talked to them since about it.

OK, I sent off an email to GSI. They said that it is a huge effort. And they hope to be certified by the beginning of the year.

[Edited by petej88 on 11-29-2000 at 05:49 PM]
 
twoblink,

One more GSI update: They mentioned to me that the subcompact S9 (9 mm) should hit the streets soon. And the S40 (.40S&W) is lagging a little behind. The bad news is that they don't plan on coming out with an S357, unless the demand increases. So send in those emails and make those phone calls. I need an S357 :)
 
petej88-you go, boy!!! In all seriousness, I wouldn't want to try ANY of that at home...or anywhere else!!! Since you seem to be a "hardcore" Steyr fan, I'll ask you...how does the triggerpull compare to, say, a GLUCK??? Weight-wise, length-of-travel, smoothness [or lack thereof]...what's it like??? They don't have many Steyrs in my neck of the woods yet...kinda curious. Also, does your Steyr have the "new-and-improved" trigger? If so, is it REALLY a noticeable improvement? Thanks....mikey357
 
Mikey357,

Well Mikey357, I've been a Glock fan for years. I hope you don't disrespect me for that :) But in all honesty, I like the Steyr trigger better. That's because the new version trigger pull is very smooth and has a pull of aprox 5 lbs. It also has half the trigger pull length of the Glock, about 1/8". There is a pretty big difference between the original 8 lb trigger pull and the much smoother 5 lb trigger.

The Steyr trigger reset is also very short. In fact, you can let the trigger all the way out, and it's in about the same position as the reset position of a Glock. The Steyr is a little easier to use as a result. With a Glock, you have to get used to letting the trigger out just part way, until you hear and feel the click point. With the Steyr, you don't really have to worry about letting the trigger out part way to take advantage of the short reset, because the trigger pull is so short in the first place, compared to the Glock.

Don't misundersand me. My preferred kind of trigger style is the Glock and the Steyr. I understand the P99 just came out with a similar short action trigger upgrade/change. So obviously, I'm not the only person who likes this setup. It's the perfect blend between a DA and and SA, being a consistent trigger pull every time.

The Size of the Steyr is very similar in size to a midsized Glock 32/23. I believe the Steyr might weigh a few ounces more, around 27 oz. And the Steyr has an even lower bore axis than the Glock, making it a dream to shoot. OK, the Glocks shoot really well too. The Steyr also has an optional ambidextrous manual safety for those who want to make the choice, as well as a built in integrated lock that comes with two keys.

Hope this helps.

cheers,
pete
 
Mike357,

I have an M40, with the "new and improved" trigger. Very short, and finishes clean. The pull is pretty consistant, it takes a little tension, and then you feel the trigger safety at it's end, and then about another 1/16th inch more, it breaks. The first few times, it felt a bit different, took getting use to, will never substitute for an SA, but is very good trigger. It's consistant, very consistant, and much smoother than the spongy Glock trigger.

I'm left handed, the mag release does not stick out like the Glocks, and so the Steyrs don't draw blood like the Glocks do...

http://www.achtung.com/guns/steyrm40.html

My review of it. Great gun, hard to go wrong with one.

Thanks Pete! I'm waiting for that S9...

Albert
 
petej88, twoblink-Thanks for answering my questions!!! Came up with one more...do either of you know if the Steyr's rifling is of a type that WILL ALLOW you to shoot lead bullets safely/accurately??? Thanks again....mikey357
 
Yes, the Steyr barrel uses standard rifling so lead bullets can be used. I've tested some Oregon Trail bullets very successfully.
 
Not so much the Steyr but just general lead shooting, don't lick the fingers and get lead poisoning, and clean your gun often as it gets dirty fast!

Maybe run a brush through every 100 rounds if you want to shoot lead, it'll make your life much better, less likely to get a jam from buildup...

The Steyrs handle lead no problem. Shooting lead is one of the reasons that Bubbits sighted for having traditional rifling vs. polygonal.

Albert
 
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