I need 1911 advice--did I do the right thing?

G

Greg Bell

New member
Well, after years of thinking about it, I finally bought a 1911 style pistol. I bought a Kimber "Custom." It has the black finish. Well, how bad did I screw up? My thinking was that the Kimber had all of the features I wanted--with three exceptions: I wanted night sites--doesn't have them; I did not want front serrations--has them; I wanted a 1911 A1 style short trigger--it has an ugly aluminum thing with holes drilled in it.

Anyway, besides the serrations, I can fix everything else...I think. I am going to get an AO big dot trit for the front and leave the non-trit rear in place. How do I put a short trigger in...can I? What else should I get? I'm hoping I won't need any extensive gun smithing.


GHB
 
I love that three hole Wilson style trigger that you have in your new Kimber, that is definitely a plus and something that I automatically add to all of my 1911s. You do know that it's adjustable for overtravel which is a nice feature. I also hate the front slide serrations and I will not buy any gun that has them.

7th
 
As part of a trigger job (which is the only thing a new Kimber needs--they're that good, so you did the right thing), you can select any new trigger you want. I put a short trigger on mine too and I love it. (I can't afford to keep it, but that's a different story.)

If you're sure you're not going to want a trigger job, you could literally just replace the trigger, but it usually makes sense to have someone go in there and smooth things up while you're toying around.
 
I just looked at the Baer thin grips, short trigger and mags. Thinking about getting all of them there. Any bad news about their mags? Shock buff?


I don't like the overtravel screw because I have heard that they can come loose and keep the gun from firing. I'm seriously thinking about carrying the 1911, so I can't have it not working. The Baer trigger seems to have the screw but I can just leave it out...right?
GHB
 
Just remove the overtravel screw. BTW I have owned three Kimbers, and none of them ever needed a trigger job. In addition, you might want to check out Novak's line of sights. They make a version of their famous Lo-Mount wedge sights to fit the factory Kimber dovetail. I believe they also make a tritium sight version as well.

BTW if you want a really cool-looking short trigger check out STI's carbon fiber one.
 
Greg, I may have a short trigger at home if you want to swap your long one for it.

I use the shock buffs in my guns. Not sure how necessary they are, but they don't appear to hurt anything.
 
Good set of grips. Front and back strap stipling (if not present on the Custom - it is on my Custom CDP). I switched out the stock Meprolight tritiums on my CDP for AO's, because I wanted better front sight acquisition......not to flame anyone, I PERSONALLY had trouble finding the front sight in rapid fire and double tap-like drills.
 
You made the right decision. You may even come to appreciate the front serrations...I know I have. They come in handy for ejecting the loaded round for storage or cleaning.
As for the set screw---I have never experienced it coming loose in over 8,000 rounds through my Kimber Gold Match and never heard of it coming loose either.
Basically, you need to go shoot a few hundred rounds through the gun, THEN decide if you want to change anything.
 
While I don't think you did anything wrong, I do wonder why you bought something that wan't what you wanted.

There is not way to get the serrations off, other than filling each with a weld then having it ground back down...that's not really an option. If you just mill them out, then you'll have a 1"x2" shallow spot in the slide...that's probably not the look you want.

Several suggestions on the trigger have already been made. Like Rikwriter, I see no problem with the overtravel screw. Some folks have paranoia for the sake of paranoia.

In the sights, MMC makes extellent night sights...give 'em a call.

Oh, and if you're cheap like me, forget the stippling or frontstrap checkering...grab some "skateboard tape" at the local BC Surf and Sport or whatever, cut to size and stick it on...you'll love it.
 
Overtravel screw

I know of one case where the overtravel screw worked loose to the point the 1911 wouldn't fire. Fortunately it was in an IPSC match and not on the street. Another case involved some debris (tiny sliver of brass off a case) that worked its way between the overtravel screw and the mag release housing and blocked the trigger movement.

Another issue with the overtravel screw that I've heard of from a 1911 gunsmith is that an overtravel screw that's set too precisely may allow the edge of the half cock notch to clip the nose of the sear as the hammer falls. I've seen the half cock notch and sear modified to provide clearance.

If the overtravel really bothers your shooting then the benefits of the screw probably outweigh the risk of a FTF.
 
"While I don't think you did anything wrong, I do wonder why you bought something that wan't what you wanted.

There is not way to get the serrations off, other than filling each with a weld then having it ground back down...that's not really an option. If you just mill them out, then you'll have a 1"x2" shallow spot in the slide...that's probably not the look you want."

I really don't care that much about the serrations, it is just the only feature I would rather do without. No gun availible met all of my specs (except, possible, some way over-priced Ed Brown guns.)

When I asked if I did anything wrong, I was speaking specifically of the Kimber Custom. I notice that some hate the series II guns. I presume mine is a series I. It just says "Custom" under the ejection port. I would never go through all the trouble of filling in the serrations. Serrations, in my view, are silly GI Joe "Tactical" nonsense. But, OTOH, they don't hurt anything.

GHB
 
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