I know this ain't right.

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bushmaster65

New member
Went to the range today with my 2nd Gen Dragoon. She was binding up awfull bad from fouling. Think I'm putting too much Ballistall on her and the residue is just turning to mud when the oil soaks it up.
But whilst cleaning her tonight, I found a hole just above the cutout for the hand assembly. I know damn well it wasn;t there the last time I shot it. I'm assuming when they reamed the hole for the hand assembly they cut to close to the face of the recoil shield and made it paper thin.
Has anybody else had this problem???
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So you're saying that metal recently fractured?
Maybe there was a defect in the metal like a micro-fissure or a pocket from when it was first cast that caused it to be weak.
Whatever the cause, do you think that it should be fixed and how?
Where do you think that the metal chip ended up going?
It didn't end up inside the gun, right?
 
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I am with the Skipper.

I think that if it does not impact operation, I wouldn't mess with it.

I had a revolver with a similar fault only it was on the outside of the recoil ring. The hand channel had been milled just a bit too deep.

It was on a brass frame revolver and had some years on it so it was probably of a vintage before CNC.

I have since parted the revolver out and still have the frame. I retired the pistol, not because of this flaw but because the arbor got loose.

You might take a scribe or a small probe and find out how deep it goes. As long as the void is limited, I like the fill it and forget it option.
 
That is very common on the Dragoon frames, some have it and some don't. It does not effect operation of the revolver in any way.

I have Uberti's, Colt 2nd gen and 3rd gen with and without.
 
In the days before CNC, it's not unusual for the milling machine to make a cut deeper than necsessary. It won't hurt anything to be there.

Instead of using Balistol for arbor lube, you might try Bore Butter or even lubriplate. The thicker "greases" wont bind up as fast as a light viscosity oil.
 
thanks gents for the replies. I think I'm gonna let it be and see if it gets worse or what. As far as lube, Fingers, you reminded me of a question i"ve been wanting to ask. Is it better to restrict the lube to the area before the ribs in the arbor. (between the recoil shield and ribbed area on arbor) Or lube the entire arbor?
Lastly, are there any area's that you wouldn't lube? I know that might sound strange but I'm much more versed in cartridge weapons and these BP's love to foul quick.
 
I smear the entire arbor with bore butter the spin the cylinder on it to make sure the entire arbor and cylinder arbor bore is well lubricated. Any excess butter balls up ahead of the cylinder while doing so. I remove the excess before seating the cylinder against the recoil shield. In all actuality, the first inch or so of the arbor back from the cylinder face is the most critical to have plenty of lube in. It keeps the fouling out.

As far as lubing the rest of the revolver, after cleaning, I put them back together dry - or at least don't 'oil' the action. Of course, I clean everything with straight Balistol; so, even after cleaning and wiping down, there is a thin film of Balistol residue on everything.
 
Just the mater of the beast there. Dragoons tend to drag down fairly fast just due to the arbor design.
 
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