I know that I put myself at a disadvantage...

D

Doc Hoy

New member
...because I never shoot with anyone else around.

What I know about shooting BP revolvers is what I read and what I learn on my own.

Because of my stubbornness I don't have access to the little tips and tricks that others find to be second nature and share willingly.

This is one of those occassions.

I have read in Hawg's posts that if one uses Rem Oil it is a good idea to swab it out before shooting.

I beleive I read in your post, Hawg, that the revolver cleans up easier after the day is done.

I have a cycle which works for me but since I never shoot with anyone else, I might be doing myself a favor to take your advice.

My cycle is fairly fixed.

I go to the range with clean and oiled (with Rem Oil) revolvers.

I shoot the revolvers with 24 to 48 shots. I used my recipe lube (Crisco and toilet donuts) and no wads.

Occassionally I wipe the revolver well with a cloth and Rem Oil during the shooting, but I don't do this every time.

After the last round I wipe the revolver down good and then spray it again with Rem Oil for the trip home.

Back to the house for cleaning in dish water, roasting in the oven at 275 to 290 until the parts are dry and then reassembly.

I put bore lube on the arbor or pin and spray the revolver for storage again with Rem Oil.

Note that I do not clean the Rem Oil off before shooting.

I don't notice a lot of goop in the bore or chambers. Don't find a build-up that is hard to get off the pistol.

What else should I be looking for?
 
You know Doc, from a personal safety standpoint, it's not a good idea to shoot alone. What happens if you have an accident? There is no one there to help you or summon help and such. You were in the military. We never shot alone. It was always at least a squad and a medic was standing by.
 
I haven't done it with Remoil Doc but back in the day when I used petro based lubes I got a lot of tarry looking crud. It was almost like trying to clean bubblegum out of it.
 
Rem Oil and bp

I'm a big user of Rem Oil. I hose my pistols down liberally before storage, and when I get them out I only swab the cylinder out with a Q-tip and alcohol before taking to range, just to make sure powder doesn't get wet by oil. It doesn't seem to bother the nipple. I used to clean it with alcohol and short piece of pipe cleaner before firing too, but it didn't seem to matter. I have never had a misfire. But bore and frame, recoil shield, loading lever and plunger are all left with a film of Rem Oil and when I finish up at the end of the day, Windex (or generic) takes everything off easily, then after drying it, the Rem Oil goes back on.

I don't spray it after it has any bp residue on it though. Only on a clean pistol.
 
Zullo...I agree 100% with everything you say

BUT

I am willing to take the risk that nothing will happen. If something bad happened I would really be happy if there were someone there to call for help. It is a chance I deliberately take knowing full well that I am increasing my risk.

I also load the chamber of a previsouly fired revolver with a CVA 1400 flask. I know this is more dangerous that using a scoop or some such. But I am willing to take the increased risk.

Now please understand, I don't shoot alone because I think it is safer. Safety has nothing to do with it.

I shoot alone for several reasons:

1. I don't shoot at structured ranges because of all of the rules. Many ranges around here are unfriendly to BP shooters.

2. I don't shoot at sanctioned events because I would not enjoy it. I might like watching it but not doing it.

3. I don't shoot around other shooters because of the distractions both to me and to them.

4. I don't take anyone else with me because part of the reason I shoot is to be alone.

Okay...Back on topic.....

Hawg,

Thanks for the response. I just read the label of the Rem Oil can and for sure it is an oil based lubricant and corrosion preventative (Mil Spec MIL-C-16173D Grade 3) The listing did not define "oil".
 
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BP shooting

Doc hoy, I've shot the real powder since 1970 and after reading you posting I had mixed feelings on if I should answer.
It seems that you are by nature a person who takes pleasure in being alone. There is nothing wrong with that as I myself feel that way a lot.
I do however enjoy shooting with people who think and shoot the same as I do. I shoot frontier Cartridge class in SASS matches. At most times as much as three matches a month.
I have seen several persons who say they use Rem oil after they have cleaned their guns. I have never seen nor heard of people using it during the firing session for several reasons.
The first and biggest is that the real Black Powder will create a huge tar like goo when exposed to any product that is of a petroleum base.
If you did hang out with BP shooters you would know that your procedure will work but is old school and a old way of doing things.
It's the same as using spit on a patch. Sure it works but will dry out if not fired right away and then leave a much harder gun to clean plus it will lose accuracy when compared to today's products.
The old timers used water because that is all they had. The problem with the dishwasher is that some people may not get all the residue out and cause rust to form.
Again your way has worked for you but they also have lubes made for BP that help with the accuracy that is much better than your way.
Today's toilet bowl rings are no longer made from 100% beeswax as they were at one time. they are made in China and contain what ever they can throw in the pot.
The old recipe of beeswax and Crisco was at one time the best available but is no longer true.
I will tell you that Windex/Vinegar is a great product for cleaning BP residue but my favorite is Ballistol which when mixed with water is called "Moosemilk"
It may be sprayed all over any gun made that has wood, leather and so on with out harm.
I also use a product called EEZOX that is a synthetic oil that beat all other products on a salt water exposure test.
Look on the Open Range forum for the test results.
A member by the name of John Boy did it a few years ago and it was all different oils put on steel wool and left on a sea wall. The wool was left for about a year and the EEZOX came out the winner.
Well if you want to try anything thats good if not that is also up to you. I'm always glad to talk with another BP shooter even when we do things different.
Take Care and Enjoy David aka Fairshake
 
FS

I am glad for your comments and really that is what I was after when I made the original post.

As I said, I might enjoy watching a CAS match but I doubt I would enjoy shooting in one. Never did it so I can't say for sure.

I guess I am going to have to break down and get some ballistol.
 
I've used Balistol but it's hard to find around here and it stinks. I don't use it anymore. Old school I might be but if it works it works.
 
I went to the site and they said....

...There is a guy in Kitty Hawk NC who carries it. Kitty hawk is about an hour and ten minutes from me.

Now it just so happens that there is a GREAT eating joint down below Kitty Hawk.

I bet I could convince my wife it is a date.
 
I don't know how helpful you'll find this but its kind of a condensation of my decent (ascent?) into B/P shooting. I probably made every newbie mistake humanly possible & went from curiosity, to experimentation, & from ultra traditional to fairly modem techniques and materials in the process.

I went from an ultra-conservative PC/HC forum to a wild & wooly one passing through several as I went. Each had something to offer, but I found my perfect level of involvement by taking a little from each & dong a mix 'n match as I went, taking the good & dropping the unsuitable.

I found most traditional methods, frankly lacking, but did find more modern equivalents that worked better. Some techniques were better traditional than modern equivalents & some made for an interesting combination of ancient & modern! Lubes would be one of those cases.

I tried goose grease, sweet oil, moose milk (& other unmentionable "moose-derived products":eek:) , "Bar fat", rendered animal fats & so on for grease too, & found the period lubes were in need of far more maintenance, & far more trouble-prone, than modern equivalents, but a mix of modern synthetic oils (pick your favorite, they all seem to work as well) or gun lubes and a cleaning the bore & chambers with regular ol' alcohol prior to use gave me the best of both worlds. What I do now is store & lube with a good synthetic oil, gun or automobile both seem equally functional. Right before shooting I swab the oils away from surfaces with direct contact with burning powder only, & then use a patch to put a thin layer of the grease into those now de-lubed areas. After use I clean wit hot soapy water & a water rinse, dry thoroughly with heat & air, & then reapply modern synthetic lubes for the next storage.

I did stick to a period-style grease, 40-60 mix of Crisco & beeswax, ( as it seems to work well with the 1858's cylinder pin, but this is about the only PC item I use.
 
I find it all very helpful.....

...and am glad for the responses.

I can tell you that I am happy with my bore lube which is 50/50 Crisco and wax rings (I know the term is not correct since wax rings are not real beeswax) Actually I think that has been true for a long time, maybe as long as before I started shooting some 35 years ago.

I am thinking about getting some beeswax. It is about twice as expensive as the wax rings (but I do have a line into a plumber who gives me the used ones for half price ................ That was a joke.......)

Anyway I am thinking I will test the beeswax based lube to find out if it is twice as good as the bore lube from toilet donuts. I am skeptical because I am pretty happy with my mix. I do realize that I am flying in the face of logic from numerous shooters who love beeswax as part of the mix. And for a guy who has never tried it, I should not have an opinion.

I talked to the guy about Ballistol today and he does have it for sale. He also put me on to a guy near Kitty Hawk who does black powder firearms. So now I simply must get down there.

I think I will be successful at convincing my wife we are going on a date because of that restaurant. She might wonder what is up when I come out of a guys house with a armful of Ballisol, but she is pretty tolerant.
 
Doc, there is a member at castbooits that sells pure beeswax at a good price. I use it to a brew up a batch of modified Emments lube.
 
I have been giving my pistols a bath with dawn, then rinsing, and drying in the oven at 170 deg. Then I liberally coat them down with Rem Oil. I clean the bore and cylinder out with alcohol of course before using. But I picked up a bottle of Hoppes Black Powder Solvent and Patch Lube. I'm going to try this stuff out. Reading all of ya'lls posts makes me want to get away from petro based lubes I guess.
 
Hawg,

Your observation and mine are exactly the same.

My only thought is that there are numerous long time shooters who seem to like beeswax as a component in their bore lube. There must be some reason for their loyalty. I assume it has to do with the performance of the lube they make with it.

I am going to scout around for some and give it a try. The prices at castboollits are pretty good. It runs about 17.00 delivered for three pounds. But as Tom and Beag say, they are out until August.

If I don't scare some up until then I will give them a try.

I can't very well pooh pooh beeswax based bore lube until I make some and try it.
 
Call the local county extension service and see if there are any beekeepers in your area. They'll give it away. You will probably have to filter it, however: melt it down and pour it through a few thin layers of cheesecloth.
 
As mykeal has observed, check out the local beekeepers. FWIW I use beeswax because its free, not because it's "better".:D

I started out with some "Wunderlube 2000?" mainly because it was what the local store had when I was getting start up supplies, but I found it too runny, particularly in hot weather. Then I tried Crisco shortening, which melted & ran even easier! The 60/40 Crisco solid & beeswax seems to be a better blend as far as melting temps go.
 
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