I know I don't post much but

[gac55]

and the reason is, I mainly just read, don't have a lot to help with anything!
I need help, I am kinda a jack of all trades, and I have a small lathe and access to a mill.
My question is, i am trying to put toghter 2 old 6 shooters, and they both need new barrel lining, I found a place that sells liners, I know that you have to have the right bit to drill the barrel, after you have done this, how do you insert the liner, and what holds it in? This sounds dumb, and this from my hot rod days, I would think because it is a pistol someone should be able to run a reamer tru the barrel, like knurling a valve guide?Which would push metal up on the riflings?

Told you I wasn't very smart
I will be great full for any and all help
Thanks greg

 

[Hawg]

I don't think knurling will move enough metal to install a liner. I think the best installers use a press in fit. I have heard of using epoxy to install them but I've seen pics from the muzzle of some and you can barely see a seam, so I tend to think they're pressed in.

 

[gac55]

Thanks Hawg,
I called a smith, he said $60.00 for the liner and $60.00 for labor, and like I said I am a jack, I found liners for$12.50 each.
Thanks a Bunch
Greg

 

[Splat!!]

Just a thought.............I have never done a gunbarrel liner, But I have resleeved (Dryliner)engines and heavy equipment pin bores..........

I have good luck using .003 oversize press fit bushings using green loctite sleeve retainer ....and slightly heating the item (overall)to be repaired..and then chilling the liner or bushing to be installed......

Once the green loctite sleeve retainer is cured it requires 900'F to release or drilled / cut it out....If using press fit you don't need to use loctite, I use it as a safety....

Just an idea................

 

[Harry Bonar]

new bore

Sir:
Well, during WWII in the big guns they would run hot water over the outside and cold through the bore and PULL the old worn liner out of the14" guns. This is called a "shrink fit."
Today, we use barrel drills with a pilot on them, clean out, degrease, either "tin" with solder, or use Brownells e-poxy to secure the liner. It is used only on "lo-pressure" jobs due to the fact that in high pressure jobs the liner can rupture, crack, or have a shoulder in the chamber.
Also, when the liner cannot stand the pressure of the chamber and cartridge that can rupture and split the entire bbl.
A fine gunsmith friend of mine did a wonderful job on shortening a double rifle chamber with Swift solder (of course he fit a steel insert), but it was a cylindrical case which obviated this problem - but - a case rupture at this point would have been disastrous!.
With a revolver, the liner should be able to be thick enough at the forcing cone to stand the pressure of the cartridge bullet passing through that critical area - that's the reason this isn't done by knowledgeable smiths!
Usually, on small revolvers by the time you get liner thickness to hold pressure you have such a thin outer bbl that the strength is greatly compromised. I will not re-line regardless of customer request!
Harry B.

 

[James K]

I think your gunsmith was being pretty reasonable. What kind of "6 shooters" are they? What caliber? How thick is the barrel? Are the worth bothering with? I have seen some "6 shooters" that belonged in the trash (or a gun buyback program) like old Spanish junk and that zinc frame garbage from the 1950's and 1960's.

You have to have a barrel thick enough to ream out for the liner. Then you have to have a liner thick enough to contain the pressure alone, and have room for the forcing cone. If it is not, the pressure will push the liner outward anywhere it can. Since the reaming is seldom perfect, the barrel will have dips in it.

So the old BP calibers would be OK, but calibers like .44 Magnum or .357 probably would not work well or would be dangerous. If you are changing calibers, the cylinders need to be considered also.

So you have the liner. Now you have to buy the reamer. If there is much difference between the old caliber and the new, you probably will need a pilot type drill a bit smaller than the reamer, as reamers aren't made for hogging out lots of metal. Sometimes the drill will be all that is needed, but a reamer generally does a better job.

As to holding in the liner, soft solder will work (I recommend it), as will Loctite. The latter does not require heat and so won't hurt the finish on the original barrel. The liner doesn't really require a press fit, a tight slip fit will do.

Jim