I just baught a model 1091 colt 1911
- Thread starter bjmanersr
- Start date
Sweet! Congrats on your new 1911.
A government model doesn't really need that much improvement, but here are some good, practical custom features that won't cause you to go broke:
What upgrades you choose depends entirely on you. If you want to improve shooting ergonomics, a beavertail grip safety (Ed Brown makes an excellent one) is in order. If you want your pistol not to snag when you draw it, look into a Novak rear combat sight.
Field strip the pistol and insert an empty mag. If you notice vertical play between the mag and frame, get an elevated mag catch. It'll improve feeding.
Get the tool marks out of the feed ramp, or do it yourself with a bit of 600 grit sandpaper and your finger. You don't need to rub on it much, just until the tool marks grow pretty faint. Do NOT use a wooden dowel for this job, as this lends itself to changing the shape/angle of the feed ramp which will ruin your entire frame. Probably wouldn't happen with 600 grit, but it's best to be on the safe side. Oh yeah, and I know your 1911 is probably all stainless, but make doubly sure before you touch the feed ramp.
None of this stuff is particularly expensive, in fact, polishing the feed ramp is free if you choose to do it yourself. Some people are afraid to mess up their gun. If you're afraid, DON'T DO IT!
If the trigger on your Colt 1911 isn't already awesome enough for you, get an elongated trigger and an action job, I guess.
Oh yeah, and PM Shorts, she knows a lot more about 1911s than I do.
A government model doesn't really need that much improvement, but here are some good, practical custom features that won't cause you to go broke:
What upgrades you choose depends entirely on you. If you want to improve shooting ergonomics, a beavertail grip safety (Ed Brown makes an excellent one) is in order. If you want your pistol not to snag when you draw it, look into a Novak rear combat sight.
Field strip the pistol and insert an empty mag. If you notice vertical play between the mag and frame, get an elevated mag catch. It'll improve feeding.
Get the tool marks out of the feed ramp, or do it yourself with a bit of 600 grit sandpaper and your finger. You don't need to rub on it much, just until the tool marks grow pretty faint. Do NOT use a wooden dowel for this job, as this lends itself to changing the shape/angle of the feed ramp which will ruin your entire frame. Probably wouldn't happen with 600 grit, but it's best to be on the safe side. Oh yeah, and I know your 1911 is probably all stainless, but make doubly sure before you touch the feed ramp.
None of this stuff is particularly expensive, in fact, polishing the feed ramp is free if you choose to do it yourself. Some people are afraid to mess up their gun. If you're afraid, DON'T DO IT!
If the trigger on your Colt 1911 isn't already awesome enough for you, get an elongated trigger and an action job, I guess.
Oh yeah, and PM Shorts, she knows a lot more about 1911s than I do.
I bought a stainless '91A1 in .38 Super, last year. The frame feed ramp was in great shape, but the breechface was a bit lumpy. Put some fine sandpaper or emery cloth on a small, flat file, and smooth evenly, if necessary. Extractor tension can often need a bit of adjustment, but again, only if necessary.
I'm not a big fan of beavertails, and especially not a fan of big beavertails. I cut my grip safety down to older, M1911 dimensions, so it fits smoothly with the frame tangs, then shortened and thinned the hammer to match (the hammer, mag release and firing pin stop on my gun are nickel-plated, rather than stainless; this is very common, to one extent or another, on "stainless" guns. You don't want to whittle on plated parts).
I'm also an arched mainspring housing kind of guy, and if you are, you can swap the flat housing for an arched one. The plastic Colt housings are perfectly functional, and cheap. I got an Ed Brown, which is perfectly functional and expensive.
I don't like 3-dot sights, so removed the dots from the rear sight (they often fall out, on their own).
The factory trigger is a bit too long, even for my long digits, so I installed a Greider "V Series" trigger.
If the barrel bushing fit isn't all it can be, a fitted bushing can add a bit of accuracy. I like the drop-in EGW angle bore bushing, which usually requires only a bit of reduction in OD to fit the slide. The ID is usually within .002" on Colt factory barrels.
I'd put 500 rounds through the gun, before changing anything. You should then know what actually needs fixing, if anything.
I'm not a big fan of beavertails, and especially not a fan of big beavertails. I cut my grip safety down to older, M1911 dimensions, so it fits smoothly with the frame tangs, then shortened and thinned the hammer to match (the hammer, mag release and firing pin stop on my gun are nickel-plated, rather than stainless; this is very common, to one extent or another, on "stainless" guns. You don't want to whittle on plated parts).
I'm also an arched mainspring housing kind of guy, and if you are, you can swap the flat housing for an arched one. The plastic Colt housings are perfectly functional, and cheap. I got an Ed Brown, which is perfectly functional and expensive.
I don't like 3-dot sights, so removed the dots from the rear sight (they often fall out, on their own).
The factory trigger is a bit too long, even for my long digits, so I installed a Greider "V Series" trigger.
If the barrel bushing fit isn't all it can be, a fitted bushing can add a bit of accuracy. I like the drop-in EGW angle bore bushing, which usually requires only a bit of reduction in OD to fit the slide. The ID is usually within .002" on Colt factory barrels.
I'd put 500 rounds through the gun, before changing anything. You should then know what actually needs fixing, if anything.
Wildalaska
Moderator
Shoot it first than send it back up
There are alwys things we can do
WildjustalegAlaska
There are alwys things we can do
WildjustalegAlaska