I have a Q about reloading the .38 special.

R

RECTIFIER

New member
I have a Ruger LCR .38 that I have been reloading for...usually a mild & accurate load of 4.0 grains WW 231 & 124 grn.cast bullet...because I also use the revolver for CC I wish to try the LeHigh Xtreme defense bullet 90 grain...

...what's odd about this.? It's a 9mm bullet. (355 dia.) I've read somewhere that Ruger broaches their .38/357 barrels to slug at .356/.357 dia.So this LeHigh 90 grain 9mm bullet is only .001 smaller in diameter. I want to load this .355 dia bullet in .38 special case with the same powder charge.

Some of you may remember that Ruger made a .357/9mm revolver years ago (change the cylinder and shoot both rounds) so I see no prob in trying this, I would just like your thoughts on this matter.

Thanks :)
 
Go ahead and try it. I'm sure you will be able to get it to function.

Where are you going to crimp the bullet? I'm guessing theres no crimp groove. Accuracy is going to be worse than if using the proper bullet.

There's plenty of 125 grain bullets out there that will work better and cost less.

Every bullet is going to be rotating at the same rate. The twist of the gun barrel. I believe Ruger use about 1:18. That means the bullet will rotate at most 1 time once it hits something. It's not going to create some magical tornado path of destruction.

I've got some snake oil that cures all ailments with no side effects. Do you want to try some that also?
 
Interesting bullet. But for me, I wouldn't use them. First, normal .38/.357 Mag barrels are .357" and while it prolly would work, a .356" bullet wouldn't be optimum. The manufacturer states "9mm bullets". Second,while I ain't usually cheap $30.00+ for 50 bullets is a bit steep for me.

During my reloading career, I've tried some really odd things and I'm not telling you what to try, many good things have come from "I wonder what would happen if..."...
 
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There's no pressure disaster result from swaging a bullet down a few thousandths in a gun. Not even a jacketed bullet. So, if I were designing the Ruger convertable, I would use a 0.355" groove diameter. Whether they did or not, I don't know. Going much more than a thousandth under groove diameter causes accuracy issues because the bullet can wind up more tilted in the bore than normal and not symmetrically engraved by the rifling.

A friend of mine had a defective .357 barrel one time that had rifling 0.006" tall on one side of the barrel and 0.002" tall on the other side. It threw nothing but keyholes onto paper, even at just 25 yards. Even if your groove diameter is 0.357", you probably won't have it that bad with what you are talking about trying, but if it is 0.358", then I probably wouldn't waste the components unless I was really looking for something to kill time with. So, why not actually slug your bore and see what it is? The manufacturer's reputation is meaningless in this regard, as individual guns can be off the average value. I, for example, have a Redhawk with a near perfect 0.429 groove diameter, while a friend with the same model got one that is 0.430".
 
I have loaded both 380 (356) and 9mm (355 ) bullets in 38 and 357s
they work great, the only thing difference is I added a crimping groove
to the bullets for the role crimp
( belled the case with 380 or 9mm die, when I used the 38/357 die
sometimes the bullet slid all the way down inside the case )
 
Interesting looking bullet. I suppose they could double for phillips screwdriver bits in a pinch.

Since they are solid copper they will probably not obturate at handgun pressures so I'm guessing there will be a lot of gas blow-by when you shoot them in a .357 gun. I wouldn't shoot them in anything but 9mm bores.
 
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