I fell in love today

G

Geezerbiker

New member
I've always wanted an old field grade SxS shotgun for no other reason than I wanted one. Today I swung by a pawn shop that a friend recommended and I negotiated a deal for a Stevens 12 gauge 5100 with 30" barrels for $200 and they paid the Oregon transfer tax.

It's very tight and feels like it wasn't shot much. The bluing is a little rough and in maybe 90% condition. It has a plastic stock and fore end and that seems a little strange to me. Later on I'll replace the stock and fore end but for now these are find.

It seems like I got a pretty good deal. Most used SxS shotguns I've seen have been about 2x the price...

I just couldn't resist a little bragging.

Tony
 
CAUTION!!! With that plastic stock... If your eyes are not perfect, get a magnifier... they can have cracks hard to spot until it recoils and it will pinch your hand at least and your face at worst...

http://www.gunstocksinc.com/web_pages/Plate-pics/Stevens-stocks/Stevens-shotgu-stocks.html

http://www.gunstocksinc.com/web_pages/Plate-pics/Stevens-stocks/311-series-II-descrip.htm

Another member here suggested these folks for affordable decent stock replacement... I figure $125 and my gun will be sweet...

Congrats on a good ol' gun find! Mine is cut to 20" barrels and is a type II 20 gauge but I got it for $100 and I like short guns for my type huntin'...

Brent
 
Jag, All these need is a final fit to your gun, final sand and your application of finish ... I prefer to final fit and finish my own stuff... Most stocks sanded to 1,000 grit is gonna be HIGH DOLLAR! Well, forestocks are cut for 20 gauge (to save cost for buyers)... for 16 and 12 you have to open the barrel channels to fit...

If you buy a recoil pad from them, they will fit and mount it to your LOP at no additional cost too...

Brent
 
I liked boyd's stocks, ordered one for a Savage 219, came in in about a week no fitting just bolted right to the reciever. No sanding or finishing required. Would use them anytime.

Sanding and finishing your own stock sonds great till you start the finishing process. I don't have guns that require a "rubbed oil" finish.
 
From the links, it seems it's a series II for what it's worth. There is no serial number so I'm thinking it may have been made before 1968. Every thing about is makes me think it wasn't used much. It's very tight and there is very few signs of wear.

I'll post some pix after hunting season is over. I don't have much extra time right now...

Tony
 
Look for a matching group of letters...
Mine is a T and an S with an E in a circle... all 3 main metal pieces have it... There are sites to figure yours out... Mine is a 1953with similar tenite stocks and type 2. My fore grip is a "round shoe" "splinter" shape.

Brent
 
Jag, I found a polyurethane I like... It is SEVERE DUTY... planned as "stair and tread" or some such term.

When dry it almost looks, to me, like a hand oiled look enuff...

It don't have that cheesy ol' shiny polyurethane look.

Having an ol' dad who likes to tinker with wood and finish has me some good tips and help available. One thing he does is thin the first coat down like water so it soaks in the grain rel well... this is required when wood with a tight grin has been super fine sanded like to 1,000 as I plan.

But my gun was bought as a service arm and is far from "pristine" to begin with...

Brent
 
Nice!

I recently purchased from another member here a VERY nice condition 5100 in 20 gauge.

The first time I took it shooting I couldn't miss with it.

The second time didn't go quite as well, but I was the one making the mistakes, it wasn't the gun's fault.
 
I haven't cleaned mine yet or taken any pix but the markings inside the frame are GN then some space and a D in a circle.

I'm convince this gun wasn't used much but I think it was dry fired a lot. The steel around the firing pin holes seems to be raised a tiny bit. I can feel it but not see it's so I'm thinking maybe .001 to .00015" Most of the bluing on the breach face is intact and there are no cracks in the plastic stock. I still plan put a walnut stock and fore end on it as soon as I can...

Tony
 
Hogdogs, glad you found th finish you want. Many times a good poly finish is much better than the varnish/oil stuff that some people use. I have only one stock that is oil finished it gets a rub down once a year with linseed oil. The grain on this stock is great but it requires maint.
 
Even without cracks those old tenite stocks are painful. Something about the material just likes to grabs your cheek and not let go. I know I'm probably alone in this, but I never cared for Boyd's finishes.
 
I also expect the wood to weigh more than the tenite... EVERY OUNCE I can add is less oomph on my ol' shoulder... When I spend as much time making sure I have gun WELDED to me as I do aiming... it smarts...

That professionally installed recoil pad will be adored!
Brent
 
Weight is definately another issue with that stuff. My only tenite was a 16ga and it just beat the cud out of me. Couldn't stand to shoot a full box thru it. And I do appreciate that pad installation, for some reason I've never been able to pull that off myself, at least without it looking like an angry beaver did it.
 
I'll probably only shoot a few rounds through it before I replace the stock.

Anyway anybody know how to find out how old it is?

Tony
 
Cool thanx for the link. I had no idea plastic stocks where made that long ago.

From what others have said about the recoil, it's no wonder this gun has little wear on it. It probably kicks like a mule with that feather light stock. I'm going to try and find a used stock for it before I shoot any hot loads...

Tony
 
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