I could use some help...

B

Baker Boy

New member
I was looking at a few S&W Mod. 19's at the shop yesterday. They appeared to be cop trade-ins (4" barrel, blued, and lots of holster wear). All seemed to be in decent mechanical shape. Prices ranged from $219-$260 for the 19's. Also looked at a 64 (stainless 4", .38). The 64 was in awesome shape overall. The sideplate screws looked very clean and straight (I hear this is a good sign) and when the hammer was cocked there was no play in the cylinder at all.

I was wondering if I could get some help. I'm not sure how to tell if a revolver is in time or not. How can I tell? Also, what are some other signs to look for in a used revolver?

Also, I was wondering about the durability of a K-Frame when firing only .38's. If I bought that 64, could I expect a long life out of it? Also, if I bought one of the 19's and had it tuned-up, would it stand up to years of .38's (mostly standard pressure and occasional +P)? Thanks for your help.
 
Refer back

I would refer back to the reply from DFARISWHEEL in your posting about lead spitting farther down the page. He had some good advice about what to look for as far as problems with a revolver, which would be things to look for in the used guns. On the 19's I would check the rear sights carefully and maybe even see if they click adjust properly. Remember how many clicks you make and then reverse the direction the same number, assuming the users had the guns at least fairly closely sighted in with a duty load. That will be closer than all the way to the stop, with whatever load you choose. Compare the guns for looseness of the cylinder. Watch out for excessive cylinder gap and gas cutting of the frame above the cylinder gap. You can check gap with a sparkplug feeler guage set easily. Excessive firing of mags in a K frame can loosen up or wear the gun. Guess timing check involves whether the cylinder is lined up and locked in place before the hammer falls, in DA. In SA the gun should lock the cylinder by the time the hammer is all the way back? Or just before the hammer locks to the rear. Look at the front of the crane and see if there is excessive sideplay in the cylinder by wiggling it side to side. I have seen that move a fair amount in a worn gun. I personally choose stainless guns for my own use now. It is still hard to pass a deal on a clean blue gun but anymore I can resist if there is alot of blue wear or any rust pitting at all. Reblueing is such a pain and expensive.
 
Don't forget to check for end shake. Dry fire and keep the trigger depressed. Thee should be almost no front to backl play in the cyliner. If there is a lot of end-to-end movement, it will need repair. Not an expensive job, but it's a condition that will just get worse.
 
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