Hurting for a solution... won't go to battery.

I

Ironbarr

New member
My '60s mfr full size 1911-ish Llama .45 has had extractor problems. I finally took it to a 'smith. He installed a somewhat heavier extractor spring (yes, it has one - it's even in the parts world) and after firing it the extraction problem is solved. But it started not going into battery when a full mag was inserted - it wouldn't strip the top shell but fired the rest. Same problem with both mags, one a Llama, the other a year-old Shooting Star. The slide would just stop short of lock-up. I took it back and he worked the extractor edge and radius and fired a box of shells using several mags and my two.

Had it out for a try last night and after the first mag it started again - no battery. Also - something new... it no longer locks open on an empty mag but did go to battery. This never happened before.

I dropped it by tonight and he looked stumped. I'm wondering if the recoil spring is weak, but at this point neither of us has a decent idea for the next step.

Ideas? This is my only semi and I'd sure like to get it reliable. It really shoots tight (when I'm up to snuff).

TIA.
-Andy
 
The slide would just stop short of lock-up,this doesn't
seem to be extractor problems, more like link and frame
problems.don't know how many rd.s have been shot in this gun
I wonder if a full length guide rod would solve alot of troubles,don't know if 1911 parts fit.I've been tempted to
buy Llama pistols for their price, but allways told parts
are Llama only, I would buy a new spring before trying anything else.
 
Thanks for the reply, zot...

The extractor is now pulling them out - no problem. The smith found a sharp burr on its edge and refined it, also re-did the radius. He also cleaned up the breech and ramp so things are smoother there.

I'm wondering if the heavier spring had something to do with it. If it puts more pressure to get on the casing and if the recoil spring is weak, then... (just a guess).

I ordered an 18.5 lb. Wolf (Llama sized). But am looking for alternative answers - just in case.

Thanks again.
-Andy
 
Well, the case rim is supposed to slide UNDER the extractor as the round enters the chamber.

IOW, the extractor is not supposed to snap OVER the rim in your normal operating cycle.

Have you isolated possible ammo problems? Check case OAL, cartridge OAL, and extract a loaded round that did not go into battery and inspect for engagement with the throat or rifling. Also inspect for bright marks on the brass which would indicate spots where the cartridge is forced to sorta go around a corner...

Wild thought--how's your firing pin return spring? Firing pin stuck a tiny bit out of the hole can mess up the chambering cycle...and then the case shoves the tip back into the slide, removing the evidence???

And of course, check your slide rails and the link issues mentioned by our esteemed colleagues.
 
I'll add a polished chamber and feed ramp to what has been said here. You could also install a heavier return spring... I'd suggest 18-22 pounds. A few other things I normally do to a pistol to improve reliability are to widen, peen, and then lap the rails. You have to have the right tools and right 'feel' to do this, but it makes the gun much smoother and more accurate to boot. You can also polish the face of the hammer where it rubs on the slide. All of these things will increase velocity and improve slide kinetics consistancy.

One can also polish and deburr all of the areas inside the pistol. Many smiths call this their 'reliability' package because that's basically what it does, make the gun more reliable. I learned by buying used, beat up guns to practice on and always have had good luck.

I think that most of your problem will be solved with a more powerful return spring. The problem with the slide locking is solved by a more powerful magazine spring or deburring and polishing the mating surfaces of the slide lock.

One final thought... Are you 'limp wristing' the gun when you shoot it? This often causes the exact malfunctions you are describing. You can get almost any gun to malfunction if you shoot it limp enough. A more powerful return spring might even aggravate the situation! Have somebody else shoot the gun or shoot it with as stiff a grip as you can and see if the malfunction disappears.
 
Ironbar, if the gun returned to battery before the heavier spring and the smith's work on the extractor then one or the other is the culprit. I'd take it back to him and have him make it right. If the round isn't going under the extractor lip as it should then the jam will occur much sooner than just a little before final lock up. My guess is that the heavier spring isn't allowing the extractor to flex back and is pushing the round to the left a little causing it to bind. George
 
Hi, Ironbarr,

The basic problem is that the pistol is a Llama. IMHO, those guns are soft and not well made, and my prediction is that you will continue to have one problem after another. Putting in expensive parts would be, again IMHO, a waste of time and money. Trade up if at all possible.

Zot, sometimes buying a cheap gun gets you, well, a cheap gun.

Jim
 
so sell it and buy a Charles Daly, all are under $300 for the basic 1911 with Charles Daly in white paint on the slide
newer Daly's stopped the white paint and are selling better
now,but more money. yes I am cheap, but KBI, FEG PJK-9HPs,
and Daly's have never been a waiste of money.
 
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