How to stop cylinder stop galling?

A

Andy Griffith

New member
Perhaps I'm the only one that has had to confront this nasty little problem...

I've had this problem a bit on a stainless S&W, but not to the extent I have it right now.

I bought two extra 1860 cylinders...used, sight unseen...but it was a very good deal- should have thrown a red flag!

Unfortunately, I suppose someone had really played quick draw with these quite a bit, because where the little lead-in cuts are to the stop notch, it was completely worn smooth on that side! It is possible to back the cylinder out of the notch if you move it backwards.

I can repair it by using a special needle file I have...but is this caused by too much spring tension on the stop? I've noticed this slightly my revolvers in the past, but never to the extent this had been galled.

I'm going to start by ever so slightly "rounding" the edges cylinder stop- just enough to knock off the sharp edge. I may lighten the spring a bit.

Any other suggestions? :confused:
 
Reckon you can go and buy new cylinders again from Dixie or Numrich or the maker of your replica. What I like to do is polish up the top of the stop, break the sharp edges and polish them just so slightly, and I have been known to reduce the spring tension a little bit on replicas so the stop is not bearing so hard on the cylinder. The springs in the replica guns seem to all be stiffer than maybe originals? Most definitely seems to me the hammer springs are stiffer than they need to be on alot of these revolvers. More powerful than is needed to reliably bust a modern cap. Of course if the timing is screwed up you will see some more wear than there should be on the notches.
 
First thing I do with any BP Rev I get it open it up and back off the Bolt/Trigger spring screw and check the timming into the Cylinder stop Slots.
The bolt needs to move freely and not slam the cylinder when it goes into the full cocked position but hit it only as hard as need be to lock into the cylinder stop slot.
If the cylinder hits the bolt head at half cocked with the spring screw lightened a hair then it needs to be brought down and polished as was suggested.
 
Hey just a quick question, but wouldn't that issue be called "peening" and not "galling"? Just wondering for my own education.

I had a similar issue on a new Pietta 1851. Only several dozen shots through it and it was peening the heck out of my cylinder stop slots and honestly ruining them. I figure the lock up would have been ruined by about 500 rounds and in the same way you are referencing - it was wrecking the slide in portion. Following a tutorial that someone posted here I fixed the issue and I suspect that you'll be able to do the same thing with yours provided there's still enough bolt travel left.

I'm pretty disgusted that these Italian repros come from the factory with timing issues. Thank goodness for this forum as I'll be certain to check and fix anymore that I buy before shooting them.

Good luck,
Oly
 
Hey just a quick question, but wouldn't that issue be called "peening" and not "galling"? Just wondering for my own education.
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Peening is the term I use, but I can live with other terms.
Many times the peening is a result of an oversize bolt. You want a tight fit of the bolt in the cylinder and it needs to fit all the way in the cylinder slot.

I'm pretty disgusted that these Italian repros come from the factory with timing issues. Thank goodness for this forum as I'll be certain to check and fix anymore that I buy before shooting them.
Click to expand...

Eventually you'll become a pretty good table top gunsmith if you own a few of these Italians. I have seen issues with 2nd and 3rd gens out of the box. Quality control is not 100%, even with new centerfires. The more you learn about how parts fit and interact, the more you'll see that most need some work.
 
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