How to repair a Dan Wesson Out of time?

A

Anibal

New member
Hello everybody I am Anibal (Hannibal in Spanish) and I am form Mexico, I hope you can help me.

Some time ago I had a S&W model 686 that was out of time, the only I need to repaired was a new hand, I just replaced the hand and polished it a little and that was all, I repaired it.

Now I have a Dan Wesson revolver .22 with the same problem. It is out of time. I don´t know much about Dan Wesson revolvers: What do I need to repair it?
 
I snipped this from CZ/Dan Wesson's website...
call 1-607-336-1174 or e-mail dwservice@cz-usa.com
Click to expand...
I would call or email them and ask about the part(s) needed, etc and see if they have them or ask if Numrich's hand for the 15 (.357) will fit the bill.

Go here, Numrich, who has the part needed (maybe). You might need part #38 (hand) (assuming the 22 and the 15 were similar in design... which they may not be)

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/DanWesson-33200/15-35941.htm?page=3

But being outside of CONUS might present issues of its own. I don't know exactly. Not much help I know. Sorry.

Good luck on your quest.
 
Anibal - To start, the lockwork on Dan Wesson revolvers is very much like a S&W revolver. Generally a person who is skilled with S&W can work on them.

That said, please describe what you mean by out of time. Work the revolver's action slowly and describe what happens.
 
Please be aware that it is near to impossible to send parts for firearms from the USA to anywhere else in the world. This is because our government passed a law about 4-5 years ago banning the movement of firearms components outside the borders of the USA. They don't care if it is an ICBM or a lever action, if it is a component of anything on the list, it cannot go without stupendous fees..
 
4V50 Gary: I´m sorry I haven´t seen your answer until now. My Dan Wesson is out of time because when I coked it I can move the cylinder a little. The cylinder is not complete aligned with the barrel.

Some time ago, I had a Smith &Wesson that was out of time too. So I changed the advancing hand for a new one (I had to polish a little the new hand for adjusting). But I didn´t know if it is the same process in Dan Wesson revolvers. Do I have to change the hand too?

Forgive my bad English.
 
Anibal,

The movement of the cylinder is generally due to a worn cylinder stop, or there is a slight possibility of the notches around the cylinder that the stop fits in being worn. My guess is that it is the cylinder stop, since it sees the most wear, and is what aligns the cylinders chambers with the barrels bore. It prevents rotation when cocked. The hand, on these, is there to turn the cylinder, until the stop locks the cylinder in place.
 
Anibal,

If you cock the hammer slowly (or pull the trigger slowly), does the cylinder turn all the way until it locks up ? Or do you have to "help" the cylinder turn a little before it "clicks" into a locked position? That might be the hand.

Have you been getting some little pieces of bullet spitting back at your face when you fire?
 
No, it precisely when I cock the hammer slowly when I have to help the cylinder turn a little before it "clicks" into a locked position. If I cock the hammer faster with energy there is no problem or when I shoot it in double action there is no problem neither. Only when I cock the hammer slowly is when the revolver is out of time.

Now I using it in double action only, but I want to fix it for using in single action too.
 
It is most likely the hand then, if it does not revolve into position, as the hand does nothing to keep the cylinder from slightly moving left and right, (except on very old revolvers), when cocked, since that is the cylinder stops job. If the nose of the hand is worn down, or the ratchet on the back of the cylinder is worn, then it can keep the cylinder from turning enough, so that the cylinder stop can engage a cylinder notch, and lock it.

I'll explain how these work, which are similar to the S&W and High Standard. As the trigger is depressed in DA, or as the hammer is just being cocked in SA, the trigger causes the spring-loaded cylinder stop to fall, unlocking the cylinder. Just as it unlocks, the hand reaches a ratchet tooth on the cylinder, and starts to turn it. Just after the cylinder notch moves past the cylinder stop, the stop pops back up, and rubs along the outside of the cylinder, until the next notch comes along, where it engages or pops into it, thus stopping the cylinder movement. At that time, the hammer is either cocked for SA, or the DA sear disengages, and the gun will fire.
 
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I noticed in the manual, that the hand supposed to be factory installed only. However, that doesn't mean much, if Numrich or another parts supplier purchased the hands that were left. They say that the hand may need to be fitted, so they call it a factory part only.

If worse comes to worse, trace the outline of the hand on paper with a pencil, then have someone put a spot of weld on the nose of the hand, using TIG. Then, use your tracing to file the hand into that shape, but add the extra for the nose.
 
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