How to remove engraved ID on stainless receiver

O

Oregon.gun.nut

New member
I purchased a Ruger M77 MKII stainless, .338 win mag, that is in excellent condition, except for deep storage scratches on the floor-plate, and an engraved ID on the rear of the receiver put there by some idiot. I know I can get a replacement floor-plate, so I think I will do that instead of trying to polish out the scratches.
The big esthetic problem for me is the number on the receiver. It is sharp enough that I can almost read it like Braille. Can anyone suggest a way to remove or hide the defacing without making it look worse? I'm not a machinist and don't have the tools, but I'm guessing it could be filled and polished out by someone who knows what they are doing. Any suggestions?
 
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180 grit emery paper backed by a metal file (for support and to keep the edges from being rounded). When the markings are gone, then go to 240, and then 320 and finish and polish with 400.

For the floorplate, try 320.
 
The "engraving" can be deeper and harder to get off then you might think.

Probably the best method is to remove the action from the stock and use wet or dry abrasive cloth wrapped around a small home made sanding block.
A flat wood stick like a 5 gallon paint stirrer will work, and many Lowe's and other hardware stores give them away.

Use a medium grit of the wet of dry sand paper wrapped around the sanding block to sand the area until the engraving or the scratches are gone, then switch to finer and finer grits to get the finish close to the original factory satin grained finish.

After sanding, switch to Scotchbrite polishing pads. Buy these in automotive stores, where they're sold for use in painting cars.
Test pads to find the grit that's the closes match to the satin finish on the rest of the gun to put a grained, satin finish back on.

Done carefully and keeping the surfaces in the original contour and you can make it look like new.
 
i see 2 options

If they are really not deep, it could be sanded but depending on who does it and how talented they are may dictate the end result. All the metal would have to be brought down to the deepest point of the engraving then the finish would have to be matched to the original with the grains going in the same direction.

micro welding over the numbers, then machining it back smooth puts it back to good as new but you would have to weigh that cost to do it. A high quality machine shop should have it. Ideal situation would be to find someone with cold welding capability but a good micro welder could match it.

good luck.
 
I would start by filing the numbers off with a single cut file.
Then use 320 grit wet/drt automotive sandpaper with a sanding block. Then 400 grit, and blend with Scotcbrite.
 
Thanks, guys.
I think I will try the sanding route first. I'm going to test it on a spot behind the stock before I get too carried away and I'll let you know how I did. It won't be for a while though....just starting elk season and this won't change how it shoots.
 
I'd live with it. Anything you do to remove it is going to remove enough metal to leave a DEEP uneven, discolored spot in the receiver. It is going to look like a Bubba job regardless. At least with the numbers there you know why. Wouldn't worry about the floorplate either. You bought a workhorse, not a showhorse. Fixing it up is like braiding and putting ribbons in the mane of a plow mule.
 
It will look fine if you know what you are doing. The area will need to be filed/sanded flat and blended in gradually. There should be no discoloration or deep gouges. As a matter of fact it should be undetectable if done properly.
 
Dfariswheel is correct, though. An electric pencil does not mark by removing metal but by driving it in and compacting it. The result is that often, in spite of heavy sanding or buffing, a "shadow" of the marking can be seen if the surface is looked at closely. This happens more often under bluing, but I have seen it with stainless also.

Jim
 
Bead blast

I would bead blast the area first , before I touched it with anything abrasive . Then polish it to match . If you don't want to polish , just bead blast the entire receiver . If you use sandpaper , the results are going to be less than professional looking , maybe a whole lot less . The same cure would apply to the floor plate also !
 
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Ditto - I wouldn't use sandpaper (meant for wood), either.

With the bbl'd acton out of the stock, I'd also recommed filing with a flat/coarse, then a flat/fine file before moving to blocked emery paper & ScotchBrite.

The rear receiver bridge, where the ID is located, isn't a high-stress area, so I would go as deep as needed to remove the marking.


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Look up 'draw filing'; that's how I'd go about getting most of the material off, with wet 'n dry and Scotchbrites to follow up and finish.


Larry
 
Silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper is meant for metal. I use it every day in my cutlery shop. I also refinish firearms, as a few others in this thread do. There are some comments here that are just wong.
 
This link will get you to the right part of the catalogue

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/51032704?fromRR=Y

I'd use a fairly soft polishing stone.By soft,I mean the bond is relatively soft.The stone will break down and conform to the contour of the steel.

For a gunsmith who has to make money/save time,a file cuts faster.I realize it is a comment on my lack of skill,but I have a talent for having a file retain a chip and cut a furrow in my work.File card,chalk,etc...yes,I know.I have come to trust stones.

The 1/4 by 1/2 by 6 in size will be good,and if you aren't in a big hurry,a 320 and a 600 grit will do fine.A 240 grit would speed initial progress,just realize at some point you will be stoning out the 240 grit lines.

Kerosene,or fuel oil,or diesel will work as lube,Kroil would be ok.

I would not focus on just the numbers,I'd do that panel of the side of the receiver ring.I'd start working top to bottom with my strokes,,then lengthwise.Change ends on the stone when you change directions.You will want one end of the stone to break down for up/down,and the other for lengthwise.Be very careful of the contour lines/edges don't round them.Work up to them,but do not run over them.

Watch your grit lines,that is the cutting action.When you have uniformly worked that section up/down,and begin to see change in the engraving,change to lengthwise.Stone crossing the old grit lines,evenly polishing them out.I'd finish the 320 with a lengthwise stroke.

You have a whole surface with low spots in it,the engraving.You have to stone the surface down ,lowering it to the bottom of the engraving.A stone will bridge across the engraving,so it won't cut the engraving deeper.


When the engraving disappears,change to 600 grit,working up/down to cross the 320 lines,till you evenly see them disappear.

Then stroke lengthwise,crossing the lines,.Do it again,if you have to,to finish getting the 320 lines out.

Once that is done,I'd use a maroon scotchbrite hand pad to blend the surface finish/texture so the receiver had a uniform look

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/03356540?fromRR=Y

For what its worth,I have a fair amout of experience stoning and polishing edm finish mold cavities to fine,even mirror,finish.

FWIW,Brownells or Midway sold a liquid product in a paint type can of a glue/grit mix,aluminum oxide,I think,creamy liquid consistency.Very uniform grit,no rocks.A coat lays on pretty thick.Its great stuff for gun polishing!

I make tools of hard maple,then dip them and hang to dry.Try a can of 240 or 320,those who do this stuff.See what you think.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/191836/formax-liquid-abrasive-sandpaper-240-grit-1-quart
 
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