How to remove built up lead

I bought a Smith & Wesson Model 17-5 at the gun show this weekend, and I am trying to clean it up. The previous owner never cleaned the area between the top strap and the barrel. There is a bunch of lead packed in this area and I want to find a way to clean it out. I used a small nail to scrape some of the lead out, but there has to be a better way to get the lead out without scratching the gun. Is there some chemical which will dissolve lead yet not harm the finish of the gun?
 
There is no chemical that will dissolve lead, that won't also dissolve you and the gun.

I make a scraper out of a small peice of brass rod, shaped like a sharp screwdriver. I use this to scrape away all the lead I can, then I soak what's left in solvent or Kroil over night, then brush with a brass brush.
You can also use a Lead-Away cloth wrapped over the scraper.

Don't use steel, it'll scratch the gun up.
 
The Lewis Lead Remover works great on barrels and cylinders. Unfortunately, it won't work for the gap that Dave is asking about. I like the brass rod idea. If you don't have access to a brass rod, I have used a 30-06 case with 3/4 of the neck ground away as a scraper. A brass "toothbrush" with solvent follows the scraper.

That model 17 is a wonderful revolver!

Clemson
 
On stainless guns, I use a "lead-away cloth" but it will remove bluing. Try a soak in FP-10 and a brush with a bronze brush--this has worked well for me. I also use barbeque skewers to pick away hard buildup. You can resharpen them in seconds.
 
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Take the grips off then drop the gun in a tupperware bowl filled with enough Hoppe's#9 to cover the area that has the lead , let it soak for about 3 or 4 days & the lead will be loose enough to remove with a toothpick.
This also works great for removing heavy lead buildup in barrels.
 
Sounds like my M-17 HEE HEE. The last time I went through close to 1500 rounds before cleaning mine. There was a bit of build up above the forcing cone. I use a small knife to trim most of it away and use No. 9 on the rest. Remember keep it wet with solvent for a few days and it will come off fine.
 
Applying mercury to the lead deposit will result in quick formation of an amalgam. The amalgam can easily be removed with a piece of string or heavy thread from the area between the top of the barrel and the top strap.

Mecury will not work on powder deposits.

Caution: mercury is very toxic. If you choose to use it to remove lead deposits do so outside and review the standard precautions printed in any materials handling publication directed to chemists.

Bob
 
Due to the extreme toxicity of mercury, I would strongly advise against using it, or recomending the use of it, for lead removal, or anything else. Mercury does cause unreversable damge to brain function, amoungst othe rproblems. There are enough mercury free ways to deal with lead that work fine so as to regulate the use of mercury to history.
 
lead buildup

Dave:
Ala Dan has the right idea. I use the brass screen mesh from a Lewis or Hoppes lead remover coupled with a short piece of 3/8 inch wooden dowel that has been fashioned into a wood chisel. The straight edge placed up against the brass screen, the brass screen on top of the debri allows you do easily scrape off lead, or powder residue with comparative ease.
I have done it many times. This technique will not scratch the (stainless) steel
Herb Leventhal
 
My model 17 is not stainless, it is blued. That is what I was afraid of is screwing up the bluing on the gun with chemicals. I will try soaking it in Hoppes #9 and see if that will loosen the lead. Thanks to all for the ideas.
 
50/50 Hydrogen Peroxide and Vinegar, let it sit for a few minutes otherwise it might do harm to the metal but it will dissolve it for sure.
 
Lewis lead remover is good. You can also get copper scouring pads (Choir Boy) at the supermarket. Cut off a piece and wrap it around an old bronze bristle brush. Removes lead fast & no haz-mat clean up (OK, with fancy chemicals involved that would make the gf/so/wife scream at you).
 
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