How to remove blackening on front of revolver cylinder?

It can be removed with "Lead Away" Cloth or a stainless brush with "Shooters Choice" Lead Remover or solvent. These are carbon rings & very hard to remove. It's better to just brush the front of the cylinder with a nylon brush & leave the rings there - they don't hurt anything.
 
Warning!

If this is a blued gun you're talking about, do NOT use Lead Away cloths. They are very good at removing bluing, too.
 
I use a toothbrush and some auto chrome polish on my cylinder face (I have a stainless gun). I don't know if this would thin out the bluing over time, since all my wheelguns are stainless. It is probably the mildest polish available as far as abrasion goes.
 
Another warning...

If the cylinder is titanium DON'T use anything abrasive on the front of it. It's clear-coated with something that protects the titanium from early corrosion. Also, same for the charging holes.

KR
 
On my SS cylinder faces I use the impregnated cloth (Lead Away) and a helluva lot of elbow grease. It works well. For my blued cylinder faces I use only solvent and a brass brush. Doesn't all come off, but on a blued gun those rings add character to the gun IMHO.
 
Take some Hoppe's #9 on a patch and saturate the carbon areas on the face of the cylinder, the chambers, the bore, around the forcing cone, behind the ejector star, inside the top strap, around the yoke, and the recoil shield behind the cylinder. Anywhere where you see carbon buildup. Let it sit overnight, then go back and do it again the next day. After two days of soaking, use a copper brush and scrub it away. This will remove the fouling without using abrasives. It works.

Stay on top of it by repeating this method after every shooting session and it should be easy to maintain.
 
I believe removing the rings in front of the cylinder is excessive, and puts wear and tear on the gun. I just use #9 and a bronze brush. The rings belong there and I do believe in cleaning my guns.

justinr1
 
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