how to properly slug a rifle bore?

ZPowell

Inactive
Greetings all,
Can someone please tell me the proper procedure to slug the bore of a Winchester rifle? I have an original 1876 in 45-60 and an original 73 in 38-40 and would like to find the right kind of bullets to use with black powder reloads.
I have heard before that to slug a barrel you start with an oversized ball or bullet and drive it down the length of the barrel from the breach end. Since I don't want to remove the barrels on the Winchesters I don't think this is the way to go.
I have a block of cerrosafe and wondering if I plug the barrel a couple inches from the muzzle and pour in the cerrosafe how would I then get it back out? Maybe pour it around a screw or cleaning rod with a jag so I can pull it back out?
Thanks!
Z
 
Cerrosafe could be a bad idea. Many of the thin barrel lever gun have slight bore indentations where the dovetails for the sights were cut. Also some bores are tighter at the muzzle than further back, and vice versa. My point is, the cerrosafe could be locked into the barrel and have to be melted out by heating the barrel. Not good. Also, if you cast it around a screw, you risk differential coefficient of expansion of the metals affecting your reading.

Slugging is done with pure lead only. Cast bullet alloys are too springy, and that not only makes them hard to push down the bore, it causes oversize readings.

In general, you can cast bullets of pure lead that are slightly over bore groove diameter and slug with them. If you can still find egg-shapped fishing sinkers that are pure lead in your area, you can use those, but I find they are all harder alloy around here, lead having been phased out. You can buy Hornady makes round swagged lead balls in 0.480" and 0.433" that are pure lead and that should be about right for your guns. Roll them between two flat pieces of metal until they are just a couple or three thousandths over groove diameter and slug with them.

You would ideally slug the muzzle and breech and bore length separately, but that would be a challenge in your rifles. You can make two measurements, though; the muzzle and the bore overall.

To proceed, I would first pop down to Lowe's and buy a brass rod that will slide down both bores. 3/8" looks like it will fit both your guns. Cut a 3" piece that you will use as a punch with a hammer (plastic head is safest) to tap slugs into the muzzle to start them. Get the lead balls. Bigger is fine, but you'll spend more time rolling them or else you can actually leave them round and let the muzzle shave them, but it's harder.

For the overall bore measurement, run a lightly oiled patch down the length of the bore, then wipe the lead with it. Tap it into the muzzle. Once it is completely in, use your brass rod to slowly push it through the bore, feeling for constrictions or rough spots. If you have any significant constrictions, they may have to be removed by firelapping or hand lapping (don't try that on a valuable gun your first time) before you get best accuracy from the gun. Measure the slug across its groove impressions after it comes out. Measure across every groove set to determine roundness or constriction deformation.

For the muzzle, simply tap a slug part way in and pull it back out and measure the impression. If that doesn't work, or you have a lot of muzzle wear, you can cut the brass rod so that when it is back against the bolt face it leaves you with a couple of inches of unoccupied muzzle. Tap the slug all the way into the muzzle, then tip the muzzle down so the rod slides forward, at which point you should be able to push it out with the bolt or your finger on the rod. Again, measure all around. measure the end that went in last and the end that went in first to check for muzzle funneling.

I strongly recommend you not try to measure the slugs with a caliper unless you have a dial type that lets you read between the graduations, a calibration standard like a pin gauge near the bullet diameter, and a history of skill with the tool. It is very easy to miss by a thousandth with a caliper making this kind of measurement. The tool you want is an O.D. thimble micrometer with a vernier scale that lets you resolve tenths of a thousandth. You will need to wipe its spindle nose and anvil and check its zero for the temperature of the room, but it's an inexpensive way to get a pretty precise reading. Once you know what size to make bullets, even without calibration it will let you compare them. This is an instance where an inexpensive import type will be adequate, because being off 0.0001" or even 0.0002" won't cause a problem. In addition to that, Harbor Freight has a $20 one with a counter on it for the coarse numbers and Vernier scale for tenths. I haven't tried theirs, but it's probably good enough, too.

As an aside, I have found my lever gun (Marlin 1895) and revolvers all are more accurate with cast bullets 0.002" over groove diameter. Assuming that doesn't make a cartridge too fat for your chamber, it's something for you to try.
 
HOW NOT TO DO IT: Word of caution. Don't use a wooden dowel that fits the chamber but, being in such a hurry and stupid, forget to try it in the bore. It will become lodged and such and, require a brass rod from Lowe's to remove. One side not and plus of being so dumb if you did do this is acquiring a cool brass rod to use again if the ignorance of ones self over rides common sense/

I'm not speaking of experience. This happened to my buddy once.:D

HOW TO DO IT: Listen to someone else

God Bless
 
I have a question....and I'm asking only because I truly don't know........

But how come one couldn't use the tips of their calipers using the top part that measures the inside of things? Just wondering....
 
But how come one couldn't use the tips of their calipers using the top part that measures the inside of things? Just wondering....

I'll try this one. Typically, there are an odd number of grooves in the rifling. This prevents the blades from being exactly 180 degrees apart. The measurement would be wrong.
 
Thanks for all the great help!!
My main concern is the '76.
The '73 I have fired with the black dawg cartridges from goex and it shoots so good I never saw the need to mess with a good thing. But now those rounds are gone and its time to reload the old brass.
Its not so much of an issue with my trapdoors because I have a mold that throws an original style hollow base slug that expands into the rifling and seems to do fine.
And my Spencers I guess I just got lucky with. I just ordered a mold without doing any measuring and they shoot great as well.
But the '76 I think ill try to do it the right way for once haha!
Thanks again!!
Z
 
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