How to properly clean nickel python?

djjamz34

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I need proper guidance on how to clean a Colt nickel python. My dad had this gun wrapped up in an old t-shirt for 15-20 years and it has spots all over it where the fabric was stained. To me, the shirt looks like it was clean but the residue from oily hands etc began to break down the fabric over a long period of time and created the "hazy spots" all over the gun.

The spots seem like they would rub off with a terry cloth, but I'm not going to touch it until I know for sure how to clean it properly.

Any advice is very much appreciated.
 
A couple rules I like to use about cleaning nickel finish revolvers are as follows:

Avoid solvents that contain ammonia or solvents that state they remove copper. (This includes a lot of common solvents such as Hoppes #9). Nickel is laid on top of a layer of copper. Dissolving this base copper layer is bad.

Focus on a hidden spot that is clouded and see if a clean soft cloth removes the haziness.

Try polishing the hazy spots using a quality polish such as Simichrome or Flitz. You could even try using Renaissance Wax. Renaissance Wax is what museums use for preservation (it is non-abrasive compared to a polish). All polishes are abrasive!

Locate and visit a knowledgeable gunsmith. Since its very difficult to determine what has happened to the finish from your description alone, the safest course of action is to visit a gunsmith who has experience with nickeled S&W or Colt revolvers.

If a nickel revolver is over-polished you can wear the finish through to the base layer of copper and that is not good. :eek:
 
My guess is that it will have to be professionally buffed (lightly buffed) out, if it can. I would not attempt this myself on a Python. I might attempt this on a Jennings J-22.
 
Most factory nickeled guns are not copper underplated. Bumper chrome shops used copper underplate.
That said, Flitz or Simichrome metal polish used very sparingly and rubbed very lightly will clean your nickel. This should not be done often as you are abrading the nickel each time you do it. Buff with a clean, soft cloth after using the polish.
Don't use Brasso, Lead Away cloths, silver polish, or anything else. I prefer Simichrome polish myself.
It's also great for jewelry.
 
I saw a very nice E nickel snubby Python ruined by Hoppe's #9. Also know of a Benelli SuperSport with nickel action innards that the Hoppe's #9 dissolved.
 
Read the instructions

Hopped 9 back label instructions do not recommend use on nickel plated surfaces. A quick wipe-on wipe-off should not hurt or otherwise lift the plating.
 
I am a bubba gunsmith, will do anything myself whether its within my scope of skills or not......I figure I need to learn somehow. that being said, those guns are skyrocketing in value at them moment, and even with all my perceived gun genius, I think I would pay the 50$ to take it to a well known local smith. I don't know if you have valued that pistol recently, but if it can be polished back to like new condition, it may well be worth it's weight in gold.
 
Don't Use Flitz

Back in the 80's, I used Flitz on a Colt Commemorative and it dulled the finish. I filed a claim with them and their response was "Flitz is NOT recommended for plated items." They could have changed the composition since then but I highly doubt it.
 
Mine don't.

I should have mentioned this in my earlier post. The majority of nickel plated revolvers are copper-nickel-chrome plated.

Colt did issue some Pythons in Coltguard which was a electroless nickel plating. Do you have a satin Python?
 
While I can't speak for Colt, S&W did not use copper plating. The nickel is applied directly to the steel.

I think the old adage of assuming a copper base is because at one point or another Colt, S&W, and most other major manufactures have used copper as a base.

I wouldn't risk it. A few people have over-polished factory finishes only to reveal some layer of copper. All of the big manufacturers outsourced finishing at one point or another.

As long as you don't leave any solvent on, it's probably fine.
 
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