What are some good things to check for when purchasing a used pistol? I'm interested in an HK USP40, which according to the letter code on the slide, was built in 1995. The gun looks mint and is part of a very reputable dealer's inventory. Are there any key items to check in order to find excessive wear and/or abuse?
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How to judge wear on a used autoloader
- Thread starter Scott M
- Start date
singleshot
New member
A thorough visual inspection will almost always be enough. If the gun looks mint- and hasn't been refinished- it probably is.
Things I would look for include wear on the breech face around the firing pin hole. Does the slide still have most of it's finish there? Look at the extractor and the cartridge pickup rail on the bottom of the slide. If a gun has a disconnector cut on the slide this is on place where extensive shooting will show up in the form of wear and somethines battering.
Look at the finish on the barrel. All pistols with blued barrels are going to show some wear but if the barrel is bright and shiny (assuming it has not been polished) that's something to check thoroughly.
Look too at the bottom barrel lugs for wear and the same with the headspace extension on the barrel (the part that goes into the slot on the frame).
Even a gun that has been shot extensively can be a good buy, but most tradeins are made becuase the buyer wanted something else and they may not have been shot much at all. Many good dealers offer some sort of warranty or brief return period if there is a serious mechanical problem.
But the truth is that modern guns are very durable and wearing one out is a challenge.
Things I would look for include wear on the breech face around the firing pin hole. Does the slide still have most of it's finish there? Look at the extractor and the cartridge pickup rail on the bottom of the slide. If a gun has a disconnector cut on the slide this is on place where extensive shooting will show up in the form of wear and somethines battering.
Look at the finish on the barrel. All pistols with blued barrels are going to show some wear but if the barrel is bright and shiny (assuming it has not been polished) that's something to check thoroughly.
Look too at the bottom barrel lugs for wear and the same with the headspace extension on the barrel (the part that goes into the slot on the frame).
Even a gun that has been shot extensively can be a good buy, but most tradeins are made becuase the buyer wanted something else and they may not have been shot much at all. Many good dealers offer some sort of warranty or brief return period if there is a serious mechanical problem.
But the truth is that modern guns are very durable and wearing one out is a challenge.
George Hill
Staff Alumnus
With any used gun - you may need to look at springs... 10 bucks, replaced springs, your good as new.
Anyone want to give to the full inspection routine? I'm outta here for the day!
[This message has been edited by George Hill (edited May 09, 2000).]
Anyone want to give to the full inspection routine? I'm outta here for the day!
[This message has been edited by George Hill (edited May 09, 2000).]
A lot can be wrong with a used auto pistol that won't be detected by a visual inspection or corrected by replacing springs.
I recommend the following (If the dealer objects, go elsewhere.)
With an empty mag in place, pull the slide back and let it lock. If the slide stop doesn't fully engage, there is a problem. Do this with any spare mags offered with the gun. If this test fails, the problem may be the mag(s), so try setting the slide stop manually. If it won't fully engage, pass on the gun.
Pull the slide back and let it slam home, finger off the trigger. If the hammer drops, take a pass. Try the same with the finger on the trigger. Same answer.
With the gun in battery, try to wiggle the barrel muzzle in the slide. Slight play might be OK, very much is bad. Try to move the barrel by pressing down and to the side. Again, very much play indicates wear.
With the gun in battery, move the slide on the frame. Look for excessive motion.
Cock the hammer and try the trigger pull. If possible try the pull on a new gun. If there is a lot of difference, especially if the pull on the used gun is too light, the trigger has been worked on and may not hold.
Disassemble (field strip) the gun and look for grind marks, polish marks, or filing on the parts. Look for polishing or grinding on the feed ramp and also for "dishing" on the ramp that indicates that many many rounds have pounded it.
Look for peening of surfaces, especially at the frame and slide rails that could indicate an amateur attempt at tightening the slide. Look at peening on places where the slide stops; excessive peening or spreading indicates hard long use.
HTH
Jim
I recommend the following (If the dealer objects, go elsewhere.)
With an empty mag in place, pull the slide back and let it lock. If the slide stop doesn't fully engage, there is a problem. Do this with any spare mags offered with the gun. If this test fails, the problem may be the mag(s), so try setting the slide stop manually. If it won't fully engage, pass on the gun.
Pull the slide back and let it slam home, finger off the trigger. If the hammer drops, take a pass. Try the same with the finger on the trigger. Same answer.
With the gun in battery, try to wiggle the barrel muzzle in the slide. Slight play might be OK, very much is bad. Try to move the barrel by pressing down and to the side. Again, very much play indicates wear.
With the gun in battery, move the slide on the frame. Look for excessive motion.
Cock the hammer and try the trigger pull. If possible try the pull on a new gun. If there is a lot of difference, especially if the pull on the used gun is too light, the trigger has been worked on and may not hold.
Disassemble (field strip) the gun and look for grind marks, polish marks, or filing on the parts. Look for polishing or grinding on the feed ramp and also for "dishing" on the ramp that indicates that many many rounds have pounded it.
Look for peening of surfaces, especially at the frame and slide rails that could indicate an amateur attempt at tightening the slide. Look at peening on places where the slide stops; excessive peening or spreading indicates hard long use.
HTH
Jim
Excellent information from everyone. I really appreciate it. One more question... The hammer on this gun seems to have a small amount of play vertically when the hammer is uncocked. Is this normal for USP's? Everything else is very tight and wear seems to be well within the above mentioned parameters. Once again, I really appreciate your valuable advice and suggestions.
Scott
Scott
Look at all exterior and interior metal surfaces. Outside of barrel, feed ramp, top of inside of slide, area around firing pin, rails.
The key is to run it through its paces and look for things that don't match the rest of the gun.
Does it operate smoothly?
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The Seattle SharpShooter
The key is to run it through its paces and look for things that don't match the rest of the gun.
Does it operate smoothly?
------------------
The Seattle SharpShooter