How to Get Rid of Extream Fouling in 2" Snubby

V

vitesse9

New member
I was cleaning my Taurus snubby and I couldn't get a ring of heavy fouling out of the barrel. The fouling was in the back of the barrel, where the lands and grooves first pick up the bullet as it enters the barrel.

Anyway, I tried several different products and scrubbed pretty well with a brass brush from both sides of the barrel. It doesn't look like I made any progress after quite a while. I clean the gun after each range session and I don't shoot it more than once every few months. Probably only has 300 rounds max though it since I bought it new. Any suggestions?
 
Last edited:
I have noticed the same thing in S&W Js also. I believe that the barrels are being "pinched" when crush fit/installed. I suggest slugging the barrel and the bore diameter will tell the story. I have run across one S&W J that was dangerous at .350 at the frame pinchpoint. Taurus has had the same problem as they assemble their M85 in the same manner. Slug the barrel and mic the slug.
 
Vitesse, my solution to this problem is this..I bought an inexpensive "rotory tool" with circular brass brush attachments on a long shanked bit . You can find some sets that include the "precision attachment", which is just a tapered elongated extension for delicate nook and cranny work. The brass wont scratch the finish of the barrel or cylinder walls, and it makes short work of stubborne fouling. You need not buy a "Dremel" brand tool, as there are many other less expensive tools that perform just as well. Harbor Freight or Homier or PepBoys are all good places to look for such an item.
 
The classic tool for removing lead easily and quickly is the Lewis Lead Remover, which I don't have, but have seen recommended by so many old hands I've no doubt it works wonders.

Myself, I've never had a gun that fouled beyond what was easy to clean up with some J-B bore paste (from Brownell's) on a brass brush and 10 or 30 strokes through the barrel.
 
For a cheaper solution, I use copper choreboy pads, just cut a little bit off with your houshold shears, and use a too small bore jag.
Put your cleaning rod down the barrel, force a little choreboy onto the jag, screw the jag onto the rod, (Make sure you use a plastic borejag, or be double sure that you got choreboy all the way around the jag.
Pull it up 'till it's just up to the forcing cone, dribble a little lead solvent down the barrel, wait a minute then slowly pull the jag through.
A little cleanup around the forcing cone, a couple of patches and you're good as new.
Since it's copper, it won't scratch the barrel at all.
Don't use the steel ones, of course.
 
I need a little more info. Is this a .38 or .357? Are you shooting jacketed or lead bullets? Factory loads or reloads? If lead bullets, cast or swaged? Referring to Sir William's suggestion, I would check not only the bore diameter but also the chamber diameters. Sometimes a chamber(s) will swage a lead bullet too much and it enters the barrel under diameter.
 
Only .38s b/c it's a .38 not a .357. All jacketed rounds. No lead ever. Usually Winchester White Box target practice stuff. Occasionally some commercial reload I get a the range. My neighborhood range also remanufactures ammo and sells it for practice to police depts etc. I think the guy uses pretty good powder. He's always talking about some clean range program from Winchester and how his loads are cleaner because of it. Does that help?
 
I used a small diameter brass rod such as a welding rod.
I just scraped out the groves.
Took about 15 minutes.
I have not used leaded bullets anymore. Change to brass/copper jacketed.
 
Funny how people just assume fouling = lead isn't it?

I switched over to handloading mostly lead bullets because copper fouling is so much harder to remove.

Try some Sweets.
 
or

Kleen-Bore Lead-Away cloth; cut some small patches and scrub your bore with those, THEN clean conventionally and scrupulously.

Once or twice like that and your bore will (normally but not always) resist further 'fouling'.
 
Good point on the Lead Away - only be careful with blued guns not to get it on the gun itself.

I "pre-treated" a couple of gus with Lead Away patches through the barrels and the chambers, then cleaned, then ran a patch covered with DSX grease through everything, then cleaned again.
 
For heavy leading/lead fouling, plug one end of the barrel and fill it with a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. Let sit for a couple hours, drain, and clean. Repeat if necessary. On blued guns, don't let any excess sit on the finish very long.
 
JBar, Don't do that with any gun you love. The Lewis lead remover is a much wiser and safer way of removing lead. Now for the problem at hand, I liked the idea of using some Sweet's and JB's bore paste.
 
Even though it's NOT lead fouling, let me warn you.

BLAZER lead .38's are small, dirty, and soft.

You WILL clean your gun for HOURS if you ever use this stuff.

I threw away half a box after not paying attention while the first half box filled the forcing cone.

GRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!
 
Jbar, I used it in a Buckmark 22. Works fast, work wonders....dried with a dry patch and took a bright and strong light and saw a film of something with a brown tint to it in my bore for 1. #2 I noticed small fissures in the bore which are not in another 22 bore which had not had this treatment. Total burn time with the solution was about 1 minute. I did not note any reduction in the way the pistol shot nor did I notice any increase in fouling.

I also used the 50/50 solution in a 45 ACP barrel. Same results as #1. Conclusions....This can't be good for the barrel if it's leaving a rusty film on them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top