How to get full potential out of my new Savage???

L

Larz

New member
Alright I just put my new Savage .308 10FP on order. I should be getting it tomorrow.

I would have searched for the answer to this but I can't find the search option in this forum.

How do I squeeze every bit of accuracy potential out of my new rifle??

I plan on doing the whole barrel break-in but I can't find any old threads about this since I can't search.

I also plan on dropping an aftermarket trigger in. Which would you suggest.

I will start reloading this winter.

I plan on buying high quality mounts and rings. What are good mounts and rings for this rifle?

Oh yeah. I also plan on getting a boar guide for cleaning. Are they all the same or is there a certain one I should get?

Any other things I should be considering?

Thanks a lot, Larz
 
Larz, here are some answers:

On break-in, once the seach function magically returns, do a search on "Gale McMillan" and you'll learn quite a bit about break-in. Apparently, the "break-in" was developed by dirty barrel makers that decided that it was a goo way to get customers to cut down on barrel life. Gale said to forget the break-in and just shoot the darn thing. Just keep it real clean all the time, and it'll be fine.

On the trigger, if you want a REALLY light trigger, get the Sharp Shooter's Supply trigger. My Savage 12 BVSS in .22-250 has this trigger, and it's set to 20 oz. I will be lovering that soon. The SSS trigger is adjustable from 12-20 oz, and is super crisp. If you want a heavier trigger, than it's surprising what can be done to the factory one (2-3.5 lb) then a knowledgeable smith can do that.

Start relaoding, just like you said.

Some Savages come with mounts, and I haven't had a problem with those. Also, I think I have Weaver rings on my BVSS.

I would say that as long as the bore guide fits, it should be a-ok. You should get a one-piece coated or polished cleaning rod, though...none of those three-piece things.
 
Before you spend the $ on a replacement trigger, why not try adjusting the factory one? It's easily enough done, and produces a reasonably acceptable trigger IMHO. Snipercountry.com gives the procedure if you're looking for instructions on the internet.
 
Keep the barrel clean. Don't fire more than 20 or so shots without cleaning it. I'd recommend Butch's Bore Shine as the solvent of choice. The Stoney point bore guide works okay, as do the ones that Sinclair sells. I like Dewey rods. BUY A ONE-PIECE ROD. The cheap aluminum rods will tear up your bore big time...

For handloading - I'd go with a Lee hand press (if you're going to load at the range) or an RCBS Partner - Get a Rockchucker if you think you're gonna be doing monster stuff, but you likely won't need it... And the Partner's easier to take to the range. Get the Lee Deluxe die set - It comes with a neck-sizing collet die which works great. When I'm at the range with my Savage .308, I neck size with the collet die - I've never FL sized my .308 brass. A Lee Perfect powder measure is adequate, and will measure just as well as the more expensive ones. For priming, I use a K&M tool, but my 2nd choice would be the Lee hand autoprimer. It works well, and you see 'em at quite a few benchrest matches.

Trim your cases all to the same length, chamfer and debur the case mouths. I recommend the Wilson trimmer and deburring tools, and the Lyman VLD inside chamfer tool. Buy good brass, and you won't have to neck turn. Spend a few bucks extra, and buy Lapua .308. It's about $50/100, but it's gonna last a good long time, so don't worry about it. Get a carbide primer pocket uniformer, and do all your primer pockets - May not need much initially (Lapua is GREAT!), but the tool is good for cleaning 'em between loading. With the Lapua, you likely won't need to uniform the flash hole. You may just wanna touch it a little...

Get a Wilson hand-die seater, and a K&M arbor press. That's gonna set you back around $100 or so, but it's worth it. Second choice would be the high end Redding press seater die. These align the bullet and cartridge so that everything stays straight. That's a big deal.

I like 4895 and 165 grain Nosler Ballistic Tips, or 4350 and 180 grainers (compressed load).

Start your loading with the bullet just barely touching the lands, and work up from there. Do your load development at 200 yards, on a calm day (wind flags are good), and look for your vertical dispersion tightening up, then opening up again as you add powder. Where it tightens up is a "sweet spot." You may have more than one sweet spot.
 
Larz, first off, why break in the barrel? The answer is very simple. Unless a custom rifle maker has spent alot of hours hand lapping the bore, it is going to be rough. Breaking the barrel in properly smooths out this roughness and makes cleaning much easier and metal fouling much tougher. There are probably as many theories on how to break one in as there are shooters out there trying to do it. Here's how the snipers on the department I work for do it and I follow their example on every rifle I own.

Go to the range, or outside if you're that lucky and take 100 rounds of ammo with you and plan on spending the day.

Rounds 1-5 Clean between each shot.
Rounds 6-10 Clean between every 2 shots.
Rounds 11-19 Clean between every 3 shots.
Rounds 20-100 Clean between every 5 shots.
(and I do mean clean!!! No copper fouling at all) And don't worry about sighting in or shooting for groups or anything. Just shoot and clean. The bore will be broke in when you're done here. You find less and less copper fouling the further you progress.

When you're done with that, try adjusting the factory trigger and see if it won't suffice for what you want. It'll loosen up some during the barrel break in too.

Good shooting.

------------------
"Charlton Heston is my President"

Danny45
NRA, NAHC, Buckmasters
 
My BR smith sez to basically run three patches of Butch's Bore Shine, wet brush, three more wet patches, a dry patch or two, then patch with sweets to check for copper. If no copper shows, dry patch, then patch with butch's, then dry patch, then patch with light oil. If copper shows, go back to butch's and brushing.
 
What ammo does the Savage 10FP prefer? I am looking for a factoy match ammo 168gr that would work well in this rifle. I will also be loading Seiara Match Kings for it, Sugetions on powder are welcomed.
 
If the twist rate is the same as the Remington 700 Police model, you could try this load. It's one I worked up for target shooting, so it's light but extremely accurate: Sierra 168 gr Match King, Federal case, CCI BR2 primer, 42.5 gr's N140.

Dick
Want to send a message to Bush? Sign the petition at http://www.petitiononline.com/monk/petition.html and forward the link to every gun owner you know.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mic:
What ammo does the Savage 10FP prefer? I am looking for a factoy match ammo 168gr that would work well in this rifle. I will also be loading Seiara Match Kings for it, Sugetions on powder are welcomed.[/quote]

Mic,

I'm currently working with Varget behind the 168gr MatchKings. Getting good results when used with the Federal Gold Match brass.

Mike
 
Get a better trigger and a good scope with target knobs. Timney now makes a trigger for this rifle, should be a great match.
 
Sorry to disgress,
But does Timney really make a trigger for Savage? I can't seem to find it on their website... cuz that would be wonderful!
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Thibault:
Sorry to disgress,
But does Timney really make a trigger for Savage? I can't seem to find it on their website... cuz that would be wonderful![/quote]

Brownells has both the featherweight and the benchrest models. The new triggers appear to be like the Rifle Basix with no sear change.
 
Larz, if you don't get quite-tight groups--which most Savage shooters say are quite possible--there is one other trick I've used with 100% success:

Make sure the barrel is free-floated, but just barely free out at the fore-end tip. Use kitchen wax paper to make a 3/4" shim, folding back and forth as necessary for thickness. Proper thickness requires about a five-pound pull to separate the barrel and fore-end enough to slide the shim into place. Trim with a razor (or whatever is handy). Fire a few quick shots to melt the wax enough for it to stick into place.

It acts like the shock absorber on a car, and makes the barrel vibrations uniform from shot to shot.

FWIW, Art
 
A lot of good advice here. I'll add my 2 cents worth. DO break in your barrell. A properly broken in barrell will foul less, and more accurate shots between cleanings. DO trim neck thickness on your brass. A Foster's neck turner is the cheepest accuracy improvment you can buy. DO NOT be afraid to use the factory triger, lighten it yourself or have a smith do it for you. DO NOT be afraid to use Lee products they work despite their lower price. DO try H-4895 about 43 grains under a 168 gr Match bullett.
The 308 is a hell of a round for target or hunting work. Good shooting.
 
I use Burris mounts and rings .. make sure you use them shims and loc tite everything down. Another accuracy improver (off the bench) is to pull the trigger with your thumb laying on the trigger finger side of the rifle.. this prevents 'oversqueeze' as you set for recoil and flinch. 168gr bt match bullets are some of the best made for 308.. I like siera's match king. Optics can be had for a bargain without sacrifing quality. Tasco makes a hell of a 4-16-50mm scope for under $125. I like a lighter trigger too.. but I just had my factory trigger adjusted.

All savage rifles are 'free floated" if the stock touches the barrel it needs adjustment. There are numerous ways to do this. REALLY good info on long range shooting is available at Varmint Hunter magazine. I suggest if you are serious about long range to give this zine a look.

I hunt with a savage 116fask in 30-06 It shoots 1/2" groups consistantly.

Dr.Rob
 
I use Burris mounts and rings .. make sure you use them shims and loc tite everything down. Another accuracy improver (off the bench) is to pull the trigger with your thumb laying on the trigger finger side of the rifle.. this prevents 'oversqueeze' as you set for recoil and flinch. 168gr bt match bullets are some of the best made for 308.. I like siera's match king. Optics can be had for a bargain without sacrifing quality. Tasco makes a hell of a 4-16-50mm scope for under $125. I like a lighter trigger too.. but I just had my factory trigger adjusted.

All savage rifles are 'free floated" if the stock touches the barrel it needs adjustment. There are numerous ways to do this. REALLY good info on long range shooting is available at Varmint Hunter magazine. I suggest if you are serious about long range to give this zine a look.

I hunt with a savage 116fask in 30-06 It shoots 1/2" groups consistantly.

Dr.Rob
 
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