So I'm trying to remove the screws on a gun for the scope mount. It's just the basic screws that fill the holes when you don't have a scope mount on. The rear two came out super easy, but for some reason the front two are rusted and won't come out. I'm not sure how they got rusted since the rest of the gun is near perfect. I've tried spraying Seafoam Deep Creep penetrating oil on there and that doesn't seem to help. It seems that the screws are tight and since the screws are so rusted the heads seem to be soft and trying to turn the screw driver seems like it's just stripping the heads out. Any idea's on how to get these things out?
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How to get extremely stuck scope screws out?
- Thread starter Fusion
- Start date
Deep Creep is not an effective penetrating oil for loosening rusted screws. It is a fuel-system cleaner (and a dang good one at that). Use a real penetrating oil.
Also, is it possible that someone used the permanent type of LocTite on those threads? If so, you are probably going to need heat. One thing you can try before applying heat. Put the gun in a sturdy vice and get a "garbage" screwdriver that you don't mind banging on. Put it in the screw slot and give it several good raps with a hammer. Sometimes the shock will break LocTite's hold.
Also, is it possible that someone used the permanent type of LocTite on those threads? If so, you are probably going to need heat. One thing you can try before applying heat. Put the gun in a sturdy vice and get a "garbage" screwdriver that you don't mind banging on. Put it in the screw slot and give it several good raps with a hammer. Sometimes the shock will break LocTite's hold.
I had a similar problem with a scope base on my .243. Tried heat wouldn't work in my case. Never tried pb blaster but these weren't rusted. After frustration I let my gunsmith drill then out and re-thread anything that needed it. If all else fails as mentioned go with the drill it works hehe
Okay, I got one of them out and the other one got completely stripped. So I went to Sears and got a micro extractor set. I drilled through the center of the screw but the extractor just screwed into it and didn't pull the stuck screw out. Now, it's just the screw stuck in there with a hole in the middle of it. Any idea's?
Vt.birdhunter
New member
Can you carve a slot in the end of the screw for a flathead with a dremel or similar? Might give you some purchase on the screw.
As mentioned, light banging while twisting will help break any corrosion or loctite.
As mentioned, light banging while twisting will help break any corrosion or loctite.
At this point, I'd be looking to drill it out. Get a very fine centerpunch and put a hole as close to the center as you can get. Then, drill it out with a bit smaller than the screw (by a couple of sizes). If you can drill through the screw without buggering up the threads, you can probably use an ez out to back the screw out. If that still doesn't work, step up to the next size bit and repeat. Eventually, you'll either get the screw out without touching the threads or you'll drill the threads too and need to get it rethreaded.
Rifleman1776
New member
At this point I would let a gunsmith drill it out. Those screws are often (usually) hardened and a drill bit broked in there will only add to your woes.
Too late now, but a trick you could have tried:
Put the barrel on the table of a drill press, put the proper sized screwdriver (whithout handle) in the chuck, bring down into the screw slot (yes, at this point you will probably need the third hand of a helper), grasp the chuck and try unscrewing.
Too late now, but a trick you could have tried:
Put the barrel on the table of a drill press, put the proper sized screwdriver (whithout handle) in the chuck, bring down into the screw slot (yes, at this point you will probably need the third hand of a helper), grasp the chuck and try unscrewing.
Thanks for all of the help guys. I got this out. I took it to a guy about an hour away and he put used his drill press and apparently, running a slightly smaller bit through it pushed the piece left in there right out. He hit it with the tap just to clean up the threads as it had some rust left in there, but it didn't mess them up. So I turned out pretty lucky on this one.
On a side note I took it to the local gunshop first, which I can't stand by the way, but thought if they could get it out quickly it might be worth it. He inspected it and told me the threads were already ruined and that it was going to be at least a week and a half before he got to fixing it as it wasn't going to be an easy fix. He was going to drill a bigger hole and re tap it. Luckily I didn't listen to him and took it to the other guy to get him to remove it.
On a side note I took it to the local gunshop first, which I can't stand by the way, but thought if they could get it out quickly it might be worth it. He inspected it and told me the threads were already ruined and that it was going to be at least a week and a half before he got to fixing it as it wasn't going to be an easy fix. He was going to drill a bigger hole and re tap it. Luckily I didn't listen to him and took it to the other guy to get him to remove it.
If your ever faced with a similar situation you might give the following a try,
Tools required,
fine point soldering iron,
plenty of patients
can of Kroil
I have used this procedure on countless small screws and other threaded joint over the past 30 years or so working as a millwright and fiddling with guns. It has taken as long as two days but is usually over in a matter of hours at the most.
Take the soldering iron and warm up the screw, nut, or item. Not hot sa you can get it but simply warm to the touch. Then add a drop or two of Kroil, and let sit for 3-5 minutes. Then heat the item up again until you can just see the Kroil start to boil or smoke or until you feel it's all the soldering iron will do, then add another drop or two of Kroil. This will usually expand the threads a little the first time and allow the Kroil to penetrate down along them. The second warming will do the same but this time it also helps to break up the rust particles between the threads. The additional Kroil will help to move some of the crud out of them as it passes down and around them.
At this point apply a bit of pressure to try and remove or if this fails tap on the handle of the driver being used while it's on top of the screw to help break up the gunk. Repeat as needed.
Usually this works on even the most stubborn situations. I have used the same procedure to a greater extent to remove nuts from bolts that you could not even tell there were threads on due to the corrosion. Kroil is one of, if not the best penetrating oils out there for breaking up stuck threads. Give it a chance to work and be patient and you are usually rewarded.
Hope this helps someone.
Tools required,
fine point soldering iron,
plenty of patients
can of Kroil
I have used this procedure on countless small screws and other threaded joint over the past 30 years or so working as a millwright and fiddling with guns. It has taken as long as two days but is usually over in a matter of hours at the most.
Take the soldering iron and warm up the screw, nut, or item. Not hot sa you can get it but simply warm to the touch. Then add a drop or two of Kroil, and let sit for 3-5 minutes. Then heat the item up again until you can just see the Kroil start to boil or smoke or until you feel it's all the soldering iron will do, then add another drop or two of Kroil. This will usually expand the threads a little the first time and allow the Kroil to penetrate down along them. The second warming will do the same but this time it also helps to break up the rust particles between the threads. The additional Kroil will help to move some of the crud out of them as it passes down and around them.
At this point apply a bit of pressure to try and remove or if this fails tap on the handle of the driver being used while it's on top of the screw to help break up the gunk. Repeat as needed.
Usually this works on even the most stubborn situations. I have used the same procedure to a greater extent to remove nuts from bolts that you could not even tell there were threads on due to the corrosion. Kroil is one of, if not the best penetrating oils out there for breaking up stuck threads. Give it a chance to work and be patient and you are usually rewarded.
Hope this helps someone.