I recently picked up Trapshooting and purchased a Berretta 686 Onyx. It is an amazing gun and I love it. I have been looking around everywhere trying to get good information on how to clean it and how often. I have been able to put together the fact that I should run a good bore snake threw it once I am done and clean it after a few hundred rounds. Is that right? Once I am doing a full and deep cleaning how and what do I need to do that? I keep hearing that I should not do this and I should not do that. Any guidance from anyone will be helpful. I did get the basic Hoppies shotgun cleaning kit but it did not come with any good directions.
How to Clean a OU Beretta Shoutgun
- Thread starter Mobius38
- Start date
oneounceload
Moderator
Get a good bore brush and rod, cleaning patches, cleaning solvent, oil, and gun grease. This is NOT a handgun that requires "detailed strip cleaning". However, you DO need to clean the barrels, the choke tubes, the threads on the choke tubes and the threads inside the barrels that hold the choke tubes. You will also need to lube certain wear parts - hinge pin being the main one, along with the ejector/extractors......but do NOT go crazy and overdo it. Place a tiny amount on your fingertip and give it a light coating. I also place some oil on a patch and wipe down the outside metal parts. Use another patch to do the same for your barrels. Apply a small amount of grease to your choke tube threads. If your stock has an oil finish and not polyurethane, some nice wood oil or polish now and again will help to minimize stains from your skin oils on the wood.
Thanks for the answer. But I have a few more questions. I got a few things in the standard 12 ga kit. A few people told me to throw the three piece aluminum rod away and get a one piece fiberglass rod, that way I will not scratch the inside of the barrel. Any truth in that? Also I was told not to run the brush in the barrel first that I needed to run the patches with a little Hoppies number 9 threw the barrel a few times, then run the brush or one of those tornado brushes, and then a few dry cotton patches with a mop and then lube the inside with the mop and a few cotton patches. I have a little cloth that has silicon on it to wipe down the outside so I am covered there. Just trying to make sure I get how to do this. Don’t want to ruin this gun it is defiantly meant to last a life time!
oneounceload
Moderator
Those three-piece rods ARE a POS, but that's because they are aluminum - they won't hurt your steel barrel - a good one-piece rod is preferable - I have two - both stainless. One I cut the handle off because I chuck it in my cordless drill to clean my barrel - the other I use for oiling and my rifles.
Fist thing, unload the gun, make sure it is unloaded, check again, then I remove the choke tubes and break it down to forearm, stock/receiver, and barrels. Then,I spray carb/brake cleaner down my bores (OFF the gun - don't let stuff like that contact the wood) and let it soak for a minute. Then I run the brush on the rod in my drill down and back, cleaning the barrels and the threads inside. Then I run patches until clean. I do the same procedure with my choke tubes - ( you can hold the tube in one hand and the drill in the other). You need to make sure you get any build-up out of your choke tubes. This buildup will be from the plastic wad and can cause a drastic change in choke constriction if you let it get too bad. Next, put some cleaner on a patch (I use Shooter's Choice, but many are good), and wipe down the receiver face and anywhere else where some gunk has gotten. Personally, I have a bunch of different dental picks to get into weird small spaces (there are nylon ones that work and no worry about scratching anything).
So far now I have cleaned the insides of my barrels and the receiver insides and my choke tubes. Now, I place some grease on the threads of my tubes and replace them into the barrel. Then I run a patch with a LIGHT oil coating inside the barrel. I place some oil on a patch and do the same to my receiver. I place a small amount of grease on the hinge pin, place the barrels back on the receiver, wipe down the outside with some oil on a patch, and put the forearm back on. If necessary, a small amount of wood furniture oil on a small cloth on the wood parts, snap caps go in, hammers tripped, back to the safe. Sounds long and complicated, but it really takes about 5-10 minutes tops, depending on how much cleaning the chokes need.
Fist thing, unload the gun, make sure it is unloaded, check again, then I remove the choke tubes and break it down to forearm, stock/receiver, and barrels. Then,I spray carb/brake cleaner down my bores (OFF the gun - don't let stuff like that contact the wood) and let it soak for a minute. Then I run the brush on the rod in my drill down and back, cleaning the barrels and the threads inside. Then I run patches until clean. I do the same procedure with my choke tubes - ( you can hold the tube in one hand and the drill in the other). You need to make sure you get any build-up out of your choke tubes. This buildup will be from the plastic wad and can cause a drastic change in choke constriction if you let it get too bad. Next, put some cleaner on a patch (I use Shooter's Choice, but many are good), and wipe down the receiver face and anywhere else where some gunk has gotten. Personally, I have a bunch of different dental picks to get into weird small spaces (there are nylon ones that work and no worry about scratching anything).
So far now I have cleaned the insides of my barrels and the receiver insides and my choke tubes. Now, I place some grease on the threads of my tubes and replace them into the barrel. Then I run a patch with a LIGHT oil coating inside the barrel. I place some oil on a patch and do the same to my receiver. I place a small amount of grease on the hinge pin, place the barrels back on the receiver, wipe down the outside with some oil on a patch, and put the forearm back on. If necessary, a small amount of wood furniture oil on a small cloth on the wood parts, snap caps go in, hammers tripped, back to the safe. Sounds long and complicated, but it really takes about 5-10 minutes tops, depending on how much cleaning the chokes need.
OneOunce has given you good guidance.
I'm of the school that says you clean a gun every time you shoot it. So I would recommend his directions be done every time you shoot it. The liquid I use to clean - is Shooter's Choice Shotgun and Choke cleaner ( and its safe for wood ) but One Ounces suggestion is cheaper ( but like he said, be careful with it - don't get it on the wood ...).
http://www.shooters-choice.com/shotgun_choke_cleaner.html
Deep cleaning to me on an O/U ... I remove the recoil pad and take the stock off the gun, once every 6 months / or anytime I shoot the gun in heavy rain or snow - to make sure the springs, etc are lightly lubed, there is no rust or any issues inside the receiver. I'd recommend you do that now as well - to make sure it is ok / spray a "little bit" of light oil on springs - emphasis on a "little bit" and put the stock back on.
I'm of the school that says you clean a gun every time you shoot it. So I would recommend his directions be done every time you shoot it. The liquid I use to clean - is Shooter's Choice Shotgun and Choke cleaner ( and its safe for wood ) but One Ounces suggestion is cheaper ( but like he said, be careful with it - don't get it on the wood ...).
http://www.shooters-choice.com/shotgun_choke_cleaner.html
Deep cleaning to me on an O/U ... I remove the recoil pad and take the stock off the gun, once every 6 months / or anytime I shoot the gun in heavy rain or snow - to make sure the springs, etc are lightly lubed, there is no rust or any issues inside the receiver. I'd recommend you do that now as well - to make sure it is ok / spray a "little bit" of light oil on springs - emphasis on a "little bit" and put the stock back on.
Thanks for the info! When you run the patches with the oil to lub the inside of the barrel do you attach it to the patch holder or do you place it on top of a cotton mop and then push it threw a few times? Does this work the same way for a rifle or is it different? On a side not when you store the OU do you store it upside down so no oil get into the gun itself? You have been a wealth of information!!!
oneounceload
Moderator
I use the same Shooter's Choice as BigJim does when I'm cleaning the rest of the gun, just found the brake cleaner to really get the plastic out. There are many cleaners, both gun specific and generic that will work. Lots of info in some of the stickies.
As far as oiling the barrels, I have a brush that only gets used for this purpose (so it's clean), I wrap a cloth patch around it a place a LITTLE bit of oil on it and run it through. Remember, this isn't to get them wet like someone might do with a semi-auto for lubrication - it's just a rust preventative. If you only do oiling very lightly, and you shoot it often enough, I wouldn't worry about oil in the action. If however, this gun gets put away after hunting season for 6 months, then I would rethink that.
DON'T store it in a gun case or similar where moisture might get trapped and cause rust.
As far as oiling the barrels, I have a brush that only gets used for this purpose (so it's clean), I wrap a cloth patch around it a place a LITTLE bit of oil on it and run it through. Remember, this isn't to get them wet like someone might do with a semi-auto for lubrication - it's just a rust preventative. If you only do oiling very lightly, and you shoot it often enough, I wouldn't worry about oil in the action. If however, this gun gets put away after hunting season for 6 months, then I would rethink that.
DON'T store it in a gun case or similar where moisture might get trapped and cause rust.
Ok...so you would say not to store it taken apart and left in the Barretta box that it came in. So I should store it upright with the snap caps in my gun safe? So in order to lubricate the inside I can run the cotton mop with a cotton swab a few times back and forth...right? That will keep the barrel from rusting. Just want to make sure I get this!
LanceOregon
Moderator
Like everyone else said, Shooter's Choice Shotgun and Choke Tube Cleaner is what you want to get to clean your barrel. It is easily the best product on the market:
If you want to make cleaning your choke tubes real simple and easy, get Slip 2000's Gas Piston Parts and Choke Tube Cleaner. Just dip the tubes into the bottle for a few minutes, and they come out sparkling clean:
If you want to make cleaning your choke tubes real simple and easy, get Slip 2000's Gas Piston Parts and Choke Tube Cleaner. Just dip the tubes into the bottle for a few minutes, and they come out sparkling clean:
A coupla things....
I have and cherish a 686 Onyx Sporter. Great gun.
That Slip 2000 choke tube cleaner really works. They sent me some to try out, lasted a year and cleaned some really funky tubes. The spray cleaner and the lube also are good.
But there's others that can work. Mobil One synthetic oil is lube of choice here these days. Good Ol' Hoppes still does the trick too.
I use a wooden dowel chucked up in the drill and wrapped with 4/0 steel wool to power clean the bores. A Rig Rag or cotton cloth with oil works on the exterior.
Do take the stock off every so often and LIGHTLY lube inside.
Use what you want, combined with elbow grease.
Oh yes. Beretta has a tool for dismounting the stock. About $20,IIRC....
I have and cherish a 686 Onyx Sporter. Great gun.
That Slip 2000 choke tube cleaner really works. They sent me some to try out, lasted a year and cleaned some really funky tubes. The spray cleaner and the lube also are good.
But there's others that can work. Mobil One synthetic oil is lube of choice here these days. Good Ol' Hoppes still does the trick too.
I use a wooden dowel chucked up in the drill and wrapped with 4/0 steel wool to power clean the bores. A Rig Rag or cotton cloth with oil works on the exterior.
Do take the stock off every so often and LIGHTLY lube inside.
Use what you want, combined with elbow grease.
Oh yes. Beretta has a tool for dismounting the stock. About $20,IIRC....
OK...I am a little confused about dismounting the stock. As far as I see it only breaks down in a three pieces. The barrel, the guard under the barrell ( whatever this is called, and the stock that has the trigger attached to it. I am attaching a picture. Correctly me if I am wrong....so this breaks down further?
Attachments
oneounceload
Moderator
You have three main components - the barrel set, the stock with the receiver and the forearm (in your picture it is attached to the barrels.) You CAN remove the stock from the receiver - That is what Dave McC was suggesting to do once in a long while to clean it and lightly oil it.
There are so many products that will work for cleaning the plastic residue from barrels/chokes - basically, you're trying to loosen/dissolve plastic....most any oil-based product will, as will many orange-oil based ones, along with some good solvents.
Once you've tried some of the various suggestions, you'll settle into a routine that works for you, with products you feel comfortable buying and using. The main thing, IMO, is to clean your gun on a frequent enough basis to prevent rust and to prevent buildup of residues from powder and plastic. Do that, and your gun will be shot by your grandchildren and their grandchildren
There are so many products that will work for cleaning the plastic residue from barrels/chokes - basically, you're trying to loosen/dissolve plastic....most any oil-based product will, as will many orange-oil based ones, along with some good solvents.
Once you've tried some of the various suggestions, you'll settle into a routine that works for you, with products you feel comfortable buying and using. The main thing, IMO, is to clean your gun on a frequent enough basis to prevent rust and to prevent buildup of residues from powder and plastic. Do that, and your gun will be shot by your grandchildren and their grandchildren
oneounceload
Moderator
Depends on the gun - some come with a specific tool, others do not. Every brand of gun I have requires something different.
Since you're new, I wouldn't be worrying about that right now. Until you get about 20,000 rounds through it, or you're caught in a major downpour, it should be fine
Since you're new, I wouldn't be worrying about that right now. Until you get about 20,000 rounds through it, or you're caught in a major downpour, it should be fine
perazzimx14
New member
Your Beretta will probly require a 6mm hex key about 9" long.