This may seem like a strange question but I hope someone can offer a little help? I recently purchased my first pair of combat boots (Belleville - Full Leather) for the police academy and I am curious how to care for them. In the past I used a product called "Chelsea Leather Food" from England to care for my soccer shoes (ex-pro), and it worked beautifully. However, the friends I have who have been in the military say they use the basic Kiwi black shoe polish. I didn't think this would offer much in terms of protection for the leather but who knows? Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.
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How to care for leather boots?
- Thread starter zualet
- Start date
Hey Son You are correct in saying that Kiwi will fill up a Gore Tex membrane . Most Gore Tex boats have the membrame inbetween the Leather outer and the cloth inner. The leather of the boot gets soaked but the water does not penetrate the Gore. I actually put something calle Nix wax paste on my Gore tex boats. This wax beads the water and helps the leather keep from getting saturating with water. Mink Oil is ok too. I really would advise the Nix Wax though. Also I suggest getting field boots and parade boots. You can make the parade boots nice and shiney and field boots water proof and comfy. Wear good boot socks too. Chelsea Leather food is good stuff to make the leather last longer I used it before I discovered Nix Wax.
I love Gore Tex. I work part time in an outdoor store. Gore Tex is our bread and butter.
I love Gore Tex. I work part time in an outdoor store. Gore Tex is our bread and butter.
A good regular waxing and buffing with Kiwi works great on field boots and keeps them waterproof. Keep the parade boots spit shined with Kiwi. Don't use any of the shortcut polishing stuff. It all looks like crap. I've never had any problems using Kiwi on my Gore-Tex boots. I wear Red Wing Gore-Tex boots for work and even the Red Wing guy said to use Kiwi.
Rob
Rob
Keep and extra set of boot laces in your foot locker.
You'll need a bottle of Em-Nu to keep the eyelettes blackened (Em-Nu is basically a small bottle of black paint with a brush applicator).
Edge dressing to keep the edge of the soles blackened.
I don't recommend lighters for shining boots - some friends used to scorch theirs accidentally (burnt leather stinks). Had a friend that used mop-n-glo. His boots looked great for the 30 minute inspection, but the shine flaked off in an hour or so.
You'll need a bottle of Em-Nu to keep the eyelettes blackened (Em-Nu is basically a small bottle of black paint with a brush applicator).
Edge dressing to keep the edge of the soles blackened.
I don't recommend lighters for shining boots - some friends used to scorch theirs accidentally (burnt leather stinks). Had a friend that used mop-n-glo. His boots looked great for the 30 minute inspection, but the shine flaked off in an hour or so.
The Belleville all leather issue combat boot has silicone impregnated leather to increase their water resistance. It use to be against regulations to spit shine these particular boots because spit shining damages the leather. However that changed when they realized troops were still doing it. Plain Kiwi or Lincoln Stain wax, etc., will keep them black and shined. After a lot of use it is good to strip the leather on the boots with saddle soap, this remove the ground in dirt and dust that will prematurely wear on the leather. It also will remove the silicon in the leather, but that will eventually wear out with natural use also.
IMO:
Chelsea Leather Food is arguable the best product on the market for preserving leather products such as footwear and gloves. It does not do much waterproofing or for provifding a polished look, though.
Kiwi is the undisputed polishing king, but does not allow the leather to breath. This has the effect of making it seem that your GT has failed- it has not, but the moisture has nowhere to go. (If the professional polished look is what you're after, this is it. Learn to accept the slight moisture buildup.)
Mink oil deteriorates leather over time. I have read and heard this enough times from mountaineering, backpacking, and hiking sources to not give it some credibility. (Stop in an REI, EMS, or comparable gear place for their explanations.)
There are various wax based products on the market than water-proof while allowing the leather to breath. They also do a decent job of preserving the leather- not quite Lord Chesea's recipe, but good, none the less. (These are the way to go if a polished look is not required.)
Chelsea Leather Food is arguable the best product on the market for preserving leather products such as footwear and gloves. It does not do much waterproofing or for provifding a polished look, though.
Kiwi is the undisputed polishing king, but does not allow the leather to breath. This has the effect of making it seem that your GT has failed- it has not, but the moisture has nowhere to go. (If the professional polished look is what you're after, this is it. Learn to accept the slight moisture buildup.)
Mink oil deteriorates leather over time. I have read and heard this enough times from mountaineering, backpacking, and hiking sources to not give it some credibility. (Stop in an REI, EMS, or comparable gear place for their explanations.)
There are various wax based products on the market than water-proof while allowing the leather to breath. They also do a decent job of preserving the leather- not quite Lord Chesea's recipe, but good, none the less. (These are the way to go if a polished look is not required.)
Kiwi contains an alcohol base and eventually dries out the leather (much to it's detriment). If a good shine is required, use Lincoln black shoe polish instead (lanolin base). It will achieve about 90% of the shine of Kiwi without the negative drying effect and will actually 'soften' the leather to ease break in. It has served me well through the years and has kept a lot of boots that would have been tossed (if using Kiwi) to remain in the inventory. Do your best to only apply solutions to only one side to permit the leather to 'breathe'. "Sealing" both sides of the leather will accelerate it's destruction dramatically. Typically, you will not encounter this opportunity with footwear, but belts, holsters and other leather gear do. If anyone has any information about or negative experiences with lanolin based products, clue me in, since I am dumb and happy at the moment. Also, some info on the other products (Nix Wax/Chelsea Leather Food - source, cost) would be much appreciated. I see too many shooters/hunters spending $2500 on a rifle and not bat an eyelash yet grunt like ogres when they see a $200 pair of boots. Same guys show up with $30 hiking boots in inclement weather for an elk hunt and wonder why their feet are always wet/cold. The importance, value and neccessity of excellent footwear should not be underestimated. If I am trashing my boots, I need to find out sooner than later.
As a sidenote, I am really surprised you former military types did not offer a single tip on how to achieve the 'ultimate' spit shine!
As a sidenote, I am really surprised you former military types did not offer a single tip on how to achieve the 'ultimate' spit shine!
The ultimate spit shine would screw your boots up.
Use parade gloss, a soft rag (issue brown t-shirts always work), very very little water, and some mop n glow.
Work the parade gloss into the tip of the boot, going in circular motion. Apply water sparingly because a dry polish will shine more. Keep doing this until you get a spit shine. Yes lots of elbow grease is still required.
Once you achieved a real nice spit shine, apply a light light coating of mop n glow. Allow it to dry and you'll see what beautiful (glassy looking) shine. The draw back to this is over time, it'll kill the tips of boots.
Use parade gloss, a soft rag (issue brown t-shirts always work), very very little water, and some mop n glow.
Work the parade gloss into the tip of the boot, going in circular motion. Apply water sparingly because a dry polish will shine more. Keep doing this until you get a spit shine. Yes lots of elbow grease is still required.
Once you achieved a real nice spit shine, apply a light light coating of mop n glow. Allow it to dry and you'll see what beautiful (glassy looking) shine. The draw back to this is over time, it'll kill the tips of boots.
I have a pair of Belleville's "winter insulated" boots (they've got some sorta green insulation instead of just plain leather). I've also got a pair of their summer weight ("jungle") boots.
They're the most comfy boots I've ever worn. This includes my well-broke-in old style combat boots, a pair of Raichle hiking boots ($100 in 1976), and a pair of $270 (1990) Asolo hikers.
I got these for about $50 for both pairs (new) at the Cav store's fall inventory sale the weekend of Knob Creek. I shoulda bought more.
Belleville does have a web site, and sells mail order. It's across the river from me, and has been making combat boots since forever...
The summer boots shined up nicely. The winter boots won't hold polish for beans. In fact, it has sorta peeled off of the left toe. I'm going to strip 'em down with alcohol or acetone, and try again. I'll look for the Lincoln wax, since all I've got on hand are three large cans of half-used Kiwi left over from the Army days.
Spit shine... Several thin layers of polish, allowed to dry, and then buffed out with a hard brush, then whipped with a soft cloth. Then several very light applications of Kiwi black, misted with water and slow wet buffed to a high shine.
They're the most comfy boots I've ever worn. This includes my well-broke-in old style combat boots, a pair of Raichle hiking boots ($100 in 1976), and a pair of $270 (1990) Asolo hikers.
I got these for about $50 for both pairs (new) at the Cav store's fall inventory sale the weekend of Knob Creek. I shoulda bought more.
Belleville does have a web site, and sells mail order. It's across the river from me, and has been making combat boots since forever...
The summer boots shined up nicely. The winter boots won't hold polish for beans. In fact, it has sorta peeled off of the left toe. I'm going to strip 'em down with alcohol or acetone, and try again. I'll look for the Lincoln wax, since all I've got on hand are three large cans of half-used Kiwi left over from the Army days.
Spit shine... Several thin layers of polish, allowed to dry, and then buffed out with a hard brush, then whipped with a soft cloth. Then several very light applications of Kiwi black, misted with water and slow wet buffed to a high shine.
Gunfighter
New member
I use Lincoln Wax on my Altema patrol boots and my Bellvilles. I also take the inerds out of black 550 para cord and make my own laces. As long as you want and man do they last.