The big question is what bedding works best with the Ruger rifles
I am not a gunsmith, and don't have an "I've done it for 98 years and THIS is the what to do" answer...
But I have pillar-bedded an M77 (tang safety) and an M77 Mk II; while making sure there was no notable pressure points along the barrel channel. (The tang safety, w/ Shilen barrel, is free-floated in a standard 'red pad' stock. The Mk II, w/ modified factory barrel, is just loose fitting in a factory laminate stock.)
Both were only bedded at the recoil lug (fully bedded lugs) and tang (primarily only at, and around, the pillar).
Both responded quite nicely.
Another Mk II is on the to-do list. It shoots 'marginal', at best. If it improves, that's great. If it stays the same, there's no loss. If it gets worse, I'll add a pressure point in the fore-end and see what that does.
One thing to keep in mind with Ruger 77s: The middle action screw should not be tight unless you've found some way to pillar bed it. It should be snug, and that's about it. Any more, and you may be creating headaches for yourself.
A properly bedded Ruger will hold the trigger guard tight with the rear screw. The middle screw (front screw on the trigger guard) is just there to keep the magazine box from falling out. (Whether 'rattling' or tight, is up to you. ...I keep my mag boxes tight.)
Sidebar:
My Ruger pillar bedding only started because the 77 tang safety had an issue with the floor plate popping open under recoil (and it's only a "243"), if the two bottom metal assemblies weren't installed and torqued "
just" right. Someone - possibly at the factory - had over-torqued the front action screw and crushed the stock. ...Which, on Rugers of course, pulls the floor plate away from its latch in the trigger guard.
My primary goal was just to eliminate the floor plate popping and get a hard 'return to zero', so to speak, if the action was removed from the stock. So everything would be in the right place upon reassembly.
I would be lying if I didn't say that I also wanted to be able to torque the front action screw properly, rather than going for the old, "About there might be enough, but not too much ..."
I got what I wanted, plus smaller groups and less POI shift with barrel heat. It was worth it to me.