How to apply tung oil to M1A stock?

C

CorG

Inactive
Hi all,
My walnut M1A came from the factory stained, but not oiled yet. I'd like to undertake the task of finishing it myself but have some questions. I like the look of tung oil but how do I apply this stuff? There is a current thread on refinishing stocks but there is no mention of the application procedure. Do I literally rub the oil in with my hand? Or should I use a rag or sponge? Some of you (Karsten) say don't let it dry and some say let it dry for at least a week before applying more coats. I'm confused. I'm planning to buff with 0000 steel wool in between coats but how long should I wait to do this? Lastly, does it matter which tung oil I buy, the MinWax stuff or the Brownells stuff? Thank you all. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have always used a rag to apply it myself. Those foam paint brushes would seem to work well also but I have not tried them yet. In warm dry weather, you should be able to take the steel wool to first coat in about 48 hours but curing time can be variable. As long as the oil is no longer tacky are fine. It sounds like you have a pretty good plan of attack. Post pics when done and good luck.
 
My M1A's get tung oiled once a year with tung oil I picked up at our local grocery store of all places. I do try and keep it off the barrel because it really smokes.

My method is a small rag, lots of newspaper and a midway gun bench to hold it. Since my M1ASM, M1ANM's have not been ever broken down from the action, all I do is pull the trigger assembly out, coat them up and then let dry for a few days. Lightly rub off the excess with a soft rag.

I do nothing else and the finish seems fine.

Good luck
 
Corg.

I break the rifle down...Mine is a Standard and not a problem, some have way better M1A's that shouldn't be broken down..NM, SM and better, to be so lucky.

I use cotton balls and Minwax Tung oil...wipe it on, wait a few minutes and wipe it off when tacky. Repeat again and then let it dry over night.....repeat after that until you are happy. It will take on a low, rich luster that doesn't need steel wool.
If you want a high gloss then let it dry and take stell wool to the stock and repeat and let it dry again.....It will be shinier than the best Sako out there.
There is somethome about wood....so nice to hold.

Karsten
 
Any time I've used Tung Oil I've mixed it with paint thinner 10:1. This will help in penetration and in quicker drying times.

Noban
 
I STRONGLY reccommend the Formby's satin tung oil (about $7 at Lowe's). Best stuff for finishing compared to some of the other brands, and does not yellow/amber the finish.

I put it on with a rag. The foam applicators tend to be a pain to work with, and can be hard to control. When I buff it with steel wool, I use the 10X wool. It leaves a surface as smooth as glass (if you did a decent job sanding the wood in the first place). I've had some of my laminates mistaken for plastic (until they pick 'em up).
 
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