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how to adjust the trigger weight 2011
- Thread starter hoskos
- Start date
...and the manufacturer told you...what?
First place to go with nearly any question such as this is the manufacturer.
In the case of 1911-type pistols, IIRC the 2011 is a wide-body 1911-type, "adjustment" of the trigger involves modification of the hammer and sear. This is best done by someone with the tools and knowledge, e.g., a pistolsmith, as done wrong the result is dangerous.
'Bout the only "adjustment" on pistols such as this is trigger overtravel, where an overtravel stop screw has been fitted.
Regards,
Walt
First place to go with nearly any question such as this is the manufacturer.
In the case of 1911-type pistols, IIRC the 2011 is a wide-body 1911-type, "adjustment" of the trigger involves modification of the hammer and sear. This is best done by someone with the tools and knowledge, e.g., a pistolsmith, as done wrong the result is dangerous.
'Bout the only "adjustment" on pistols such as this is trigger overtravel, where an overtravel stop screw has been fitted.
Regards,
Walt
Just to echo Walt. The 1911/2011 trigger is not readily adjustable for pull weight. You can "fit" a lighter sear spring but it's unlikely to make much of a difference compared to a proper sear & hammer trigger job.
If you will not send the gun to a smith, the next best option might be a drop-in ignition kit from someone like Brazo's Custom:
http://www.1911store.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=166
If you will not send the gun to a smith, the next best option might be a drop-in ignition kit from someone like Brazo's Custom:
http://www.1911store.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=166
Harry Bonar
New member
1911 trigger?
Sir;
If, in fact it's a 1911 then they're right - you can only go so far. The best I've ever done is 2# on a 1911 without having following problems.
When you get a good sear/hammer contact is to increase the center spring tension and back off on the sear spring. Just about all following is caused be "trigger bounce" not a bad sear/hammer angle, although that can cause following.
Harry B.
Sir;
If, in fact it's a 1911 then they're right - you can only go so far. The best I've ever done is 2# on a 1911 without having following problems.
When you get a good sear/hammer contact is to increase the center spring tension and back off on the sear spring. Just about all following is caused be "trigger bounce" not a bad sear/hammer angle, although that can cause following.
Harry B.
the BEST way for either less or more weight
IME the best way is professionally.
It also seems the safest way.
I mean, if it's a "weapon".
If it's just a gun you can swap and/or bend sear springs, exchange the mainspring for one of lesser weight, or reduce the engagement between hammer and sear, amongst other choices.
But most definitely do NOT load more than two rds in any magazine used during testing, in case the gun goes full auto.....
IME the best way is professionally.
It also seems the safest way.
I mean, if it's a "weapon".
If it's just a gun you can swap and/or bend sear springs, exchange the mainspring for one of lesser weight, or reduce the engagement between hammer and sear, amongst other choices.
But most definitely do NOT load more than two rds in any magazine used during testing, in case the gun goes full auto.....