How much oil is applied to the hammer/trigger parts?

I

Ignition Override

New member
I can't remember anybody describing this. Acquired first handgun less than two years ago, prev. being just a milsurp rifle guy.

In order to avoid attracting extra gunk and dust, is it only sprayed for a tiny split second out of the thinnest plastic tube at very Infrequent intervals (then wiped clean), or dripped on just enough to penetrate the hammer's moving parts etc?
A specific gun might use approx. 200 rds. per month.

One can't always decide when to trust a given guy's/gal's technique with a Youtube gun video, although the "Faliaphotography" channel is difficult to resist.:)
 
Last edited:
I use a precision oil bottle to put small drops of oil where two parts meet. Then I work the action/parts to get the oil to seep in and migrate better.

You only need a small amount in the right spots for the Action of a pistol.


Slide rails and barrels on the other hand... they get a thin coat of grease.
 
Not a smart-a$$ed answer, but I just go with the manufacturer's recommendation for what parts need lube. It's usually in the Owners Manual...or a brief email to the customer service department should also yield good info.
 
You can lubricate any pistol ever made with four or five drops of lube on a Q-tip. ALL OF IT, inside and out and not use all the lube on the Q-tip !!
And so it goes...
 
Put a good CLP on, work the action. Then wipe it off the best you can.

That is how I lube action parts.

Then, every ?? years, do a detail strip and clean thoroughly with a delubricator like brake cleaner.
 
Speaking of detailed strips...
Why does no owners manual I've ever read address a recommended frequency for detailed strips? Is it because they don't feel it should ever be required as long as the gun is continuing to function? Is it because they would be inundated with calls from owners who lost parts, broke something, or just can't get it back together and functioning? It's always seemed odd to me.
 
Why does no owners manual I've ever read address a recommended frequency for detailed strips?
Click to expand...
Most guns don't ever need a "detailed strip"

Field stripping is all that is required, and frequency is directly proportional to actual use
 
For your hammer/sear and parts not exposed to heavy contact, a clean oily rag wiping the parts is good enough.

For the major parts such as slide rails and such which see a lot of movement and heavy contact, a Q tip full of oil and rubbed on the full length mating surfaces has always worked for me.

1911 style pistols seem to like to run a bit wet in particular but it also depends on how tight your weapon is. Tight slide/frames run best oiled, looser ones take a light weight grease and seem to hold it better.
 
I apply KG10 dry lube to trigger group shiny spots. Some people call KG10 "trigger job in a bottle". That may be optimistic, but it does seem make things a little smoother.
 
some pistols need more lube than others, that is why it is good to start with the OEM recommendations. For example, a walther PPS looks a lot like a Glock on the inside, but the walther needs a bit more oil than the glock. Glocks tend to run best with very little lube. I think they are the driest pistols I know of.

1911's, Browing hi-powers, and older SW 59-series (especially the stainless ones) like to run a little more wet, compared to modern polymer pistols.

Put a good CLP on, work the action. Then wipe it off the best you can.

That is how I lube action parts.
Click to expand...

That is pretty much what I do and it has worked for years on everything from Glocks to SA Ruger wheel guns.

Why does no owners manual I've ever read address a recommended frequency for detailed strips?
Click to expand...

That kind of detail cleaning is generally thought of as a gunsmithing task... although it is the kind of smith-work that a good DIY-er can do at home. As others mentioned, most pistols don't every need it.... at least not for the first 25 years / 10,000 rounds. When you have to replace springs, worn-out barrels, extractors, etc, then it is a good time to detail strip and clean.
 
As stated, I Q-tip every sliding/contact point I can find, then maybe once a year I will spray the clockwork with something like PowderBlast to get the gritty junk out. You'd be surprised what accumulates in there.

Beware though, not all plastics play well with sprays like brake cleaner, even the nonchlorinated kind. The grips on my CZ turned white when I used PB.:eek:
 
jmhyer said:
Speaking of detailed strips...
Why does no owners manual I've ever read address a recommended frequency for detailed strips? Is it because they don't feel it should ever be required as long as the gun is continuing to function? Is it because they would be inundated with calls from owners who lost parts, broke something, or just can't get it back together and functioning? It's always seemed odd to me.
Click to expand...

Field strip and clean is owner's work. Detail strip and clean is shop work. Generally, that is the belief. Detail stripping should involve evaluating the parts going back together for wear and proper function.
 
IMHO, far more guns have been ruined by "detail stripping" than ever wore out or broke in firing. To me the term "detail strip" conjures up visions of broken and bent springs, missing parts, parts flying off in the corner, etc. And, of course, pleas on this and other sites that begin with "I got my xxxx apart and can't get it back together...." This is often followed by a rant against the stupid marker for not doing things the way the poster thinks they should be done.

If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it!!

Jim
 
Thanks very much.

Jim K: Almost lost the trigger bar and tiny retainer piece for the WW2 Mauser Hsc which jumped out-and not knowing which parts, or what they were- had the extreme good fortune that they missed boxes of small stuff and hit the wooden floor.

Being so doof,(daft) the idea of reading about this in the Sig 232's Owner's Manual never came to me. The recommendations for that could apply to the Sauer 38H.
With a first PPK bought yesterday (.380 "Made In W. G."), maybe an on-line manual can be found.
 
Last edited:
I just dump my whole guns in a 5 gallon bucket full of lube. Really works never haf over lube problems. Nahh jk.
i rub in 4-5 drops where theres metal on metal contact o high friction points then use my air compressor to blow off the excess.
 
How about corrosion of inner parts used fairly often in the Memphis climate, even if you avoid sweating directly over the gun?

This leads directly to my new topic on how sweat affects nice bluing on a gun.
 
How about corrosion of inner parts used fairly often in the Memphis climate, even if you avoid sweating directly over the gun?
Click to expand...

Inner parts aren't going to corrode due to sweat on the outside of a gun
Any oil will leave a coating that will protect the metal

You may just have to clean and relube more often in Summer

Or you could just buy a Glock and not worry about it at all ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top