How much is it going to cost me to float my barrel?

T

The Kid

New member
I have .30-06 Remington 700, which is making contact w/ the stock on the breech end...how much is it going to cost me to float this bad boy?
 
Yeah but...

I've heard getting the barrel off of a Remington 700 is a pain in the you know what.

any advice?
 
I don't intend to insult anybody here, but if you cannot remove the receiver assembly from the stock of a Remington M700 without assistance, you should reconsider any attempt to alter the dimensions of any part of your rifle. Free floating a barrel is a fairly straight forward process which, if done poorly can completely ruin the appearance of your gun. I would suggest you find a local gunsmith willing to either show you the basics, or give you a price you can afford for the job. Free floating doesn't always increase accuracy, either. If your rifle shoots well, then don't mess with it. Accurizing a factory rifle is not a simple process, and should be preceded by allot of research (academic, rather than internet feedback). Most of the advice here is good, but you'd have to know the difference beforehand to tell the difference. Think long, and hard before you alter a gun yourself.
 
slightly insulted...I'm pretty sure I can do this.

But chill...I'm here to learn.

I'm pretty good w/ my hands; I just need some basic instruction. Hell, if I can disassemble a hydraulic press by myself and reassemble one, I can certainly do this.
 
Have you shot your gun with various loads and found none to be even close? Try load development, make sure nothing works well before altering things, I have had rifles that actually shot better with a little upward pressure near the foreend tip....some others not true......find out for your gun whether any of that applies
 
No, I haven't :o

I'm not going to make any modifications to my rifle this season, unless I can get my neighbor to help me.

I think I'm getting decent enough groups at 100 yds for white tail, which is what this gun is for.



I was just curious as to what it would involve should I want to drive tacks at 250 yards.
 
I was always told to shoot a new rifle first. Try to get it to shoot he way you want. Try different loads, reload ect. If you find the gun will not shoot the way you want, then go to Plan B. Trigger job, float barrel, pillar bed, glass bed. If it is not broke, don't go and spend bunch of money on it. John
 
Not difficult, just go easy and take off minimum amount of wood needed to get a dollar bill to slide freely between barrel and stock, no more need be taken off.

Just shot a neighbors Savage in 300 Win Mag today and it needs the same treatment. First shot on target consistently 1/2" low right of the center of the x ring of a 50 yard rimfire target set up at 100 yards. second shot always up and left at 11 o'clock just outside the black, not quite 2 1/2". If I left the bolt open and let the barrel cool for a couple of minutes between shots the rounds held around 3/4" for a 3 shot group. Good enough for deer hunting but a little bit of paper is going to be used and I bet the high left shot will go away.
 
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