How much cornmeal?
- Thread starter zcar75
- Start date
I'd be surprised if your 1858 held 50 grains of 3Fg. Not unless you had it specially modified. From what I recall, 35 grains would be pretty much a full load and that may be generous. In any event, just make sure your ball sits firmly on your powder. If you feel the need to get the ball closer to the forcing cone then you can experiment by adding a little corn meal, grits, cream-of-wheat, et al until the ball sits where you want it. Or add a lubricated wad.
You'll have to figure that out for yourself. Each gun is different, and even different nipples will thread deeper or shallower, varying the amount of free space in the chambers if you want to be that picky about it. Your measure probably measures differently than mine or anyone elses too.
Frankly, with 30 grains you don't need filler in most 1858s anyway (IMO).
Frankly, with 30 grains you don't need filler in most 1858s anyway (IMO).
flintforever
New member
I read the ruger old army will take about 41 grains of 3F Goex
I loaded the other day 25 Gr. 3f and 20 grain Cream of wheat no problem seating the ball and adding the top grease cookie.
I find the ruger old army like the ball about 1/4" from the top of the cylinder
I loaded 3 shots were the ball was close to the top of the cylinder but had no problems were the cylinder got caught turn freely but the pattern group open to 4"
I loaded the other day 25 Gr. 3f and 20 grain Cream of wheat no problem seating the ball and adding the top grease cookie.
I find the ruger old army like the ball about 1/4" from the top of the cylinder
I loaded 3 shots were the ball was close to the top of the cylinder but had no problems were the cylinder got caught turn freely but the pattern group open to 4"
SAMMY SNAKE
Inactive
ROA CAPS
hi folks
i'm having trouble with the caps on my old army:-
1. not going off went firered ,it looks like cap is struck ok but has moved foward and cushsioned the hammer,it goes off if struck a second time
2. went cap does fire it brakes up and the bits go into action stopping it from working .
i'm using CCI No.10 caps because it's all i can get over here,and a capper to fit them on nipples.
i love my ruger old army but this is doing my head in !!!!!
is it a nipple problem ,would another make of nipples cure this,
if not it's for sale
maybe it time for a Rodgers & Spencer
HELP PLEASE
hi folks
i'm having trouble with the caps on my old army:-
1. not going off went firered ,it looks like cap is struck ok but has moved foward and cushsioned the hammer,it goes off if struck a second time
2. went cap does fire it brakes up and the bits go into action stopping it from working .
i'm using CCI No.10 caps because it's all i can get over here,and a capper to fit them on nipples.
i love my ruger old army but this is doing my head in !!!!!
is it a nipple problem ,would another make of nipples cure this,
if not it's for sale
maybe it time for a Rodgers & Spencer
HELP PLEASE
If all you can get there is cci#10 you will have to live with the cap bits problem. You can resolve the fit problem either by dressing down the nipples or by buying a set of Tresso nipples for the #10 cap.
With the 1858 Remingtons you right at 40gr volume will fill the chamber. With a 30gr load you are wasting your time with filler.
With the 1858 Remingtons you right at 40gr volume will fill the chamber. With a 30gr load you are wasting your time with filler.
robhof
As said above about dressing the nipples; use a fine grit sandpaper and hand turn the nipple in a fold of the paper. carefully, if you take off too much you'll need new nipples. The part you want to remove is just below the end, where the nipple starts to taper. The #10's are a slight bit longer than the 11's. I had to do it with one of my spare cylinders when I had a similiar problem with #11. It didn't take much and I've had no more problems with that cylinder.
As said above about dressing the nipples; use a fine grit sandpaper and hand turn the nipple in a fold of the paper. carefully, if you take off too much you'll need new nipples. The part you want to remove is just below the end, where the nipple starts to taper. The #10's are a slight bit longer than the 11's. I had to do it with one of my spare cylinders when I had a similiar problem with #11. It didn't take much and I've had no more problems with that cylinder.