How important are rings and bases on a hunting gun

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pabuckslayer08

New member
So just how important are they, I have a new A Bolt with Nikon Buckmaster on it but when I bought the gun they through in a set of free weaver rings for it, so I saved 50 bucks and tryed them. I cant get the gun to hold a 3" group at 100. Im know its not me as I can grab any other of my rifles and shoot sub moa all day and I would highly doubt that a 1100 dollar A Bolt Medallion would shoot that bad. Only option left is rings and bases and possibly ammo. I havnt worked up a load for it yet as Ive just been trying a few mid priced ammos to see if it likes any. So far ive trying Fusions, Remington Sierras, Federals w/ Noslers and I want to try some Superformance ammo before I just try tinkering with my own stuff. Anyone think its the junk rings causing it to be inaccurate
 
Just because it cost 1100, doesn't mean it likes what you are shooting through it - maybe it's the rings and bases, but I would venture more likely it is the ammo
 
Well, from personal experience, they are VERY important. I had a rem 700 in .270, with a bushnell scope, and cheap rings. I had to resight it after every single outing. So I promised myself never to buy another cheap set of rings or a cheap base. That's just my personal experience. Hope that helps!
 
Does the scope move in any way when you hold the rifle still? If not and all the screws are tight, then look at the ammo.
 
No it doesnt move at all, they are tight. Is over tightening a issue with cheap rings becaust all my leupold sets I can just turn down and feel them snug up but these they get tight slowly and then take like 10 more turns once they begin to snug up
 
If the scope is absolutely not moving then it may be the scope itself. I would try putting another scope on it or take that scope and try it on another rifle. If you can rule out scope, rings, and bases then I would try some different ammo, if you can rule out ammo then its got to be the rifle. Everybody puts out a lemon every now and then.
 
Not sure which Weaver rings you're using but I've been using Burris' steel Weaver style rings for decades. They're not expensive or fancy but they work. I've had good experiences with the Buckmaster scope as well, have two of them at the moment. If everything is correctly installed it should be a matter of finding a load your rifle likes.
Did you check to see if the rings needed lapping? My last few didn't but that could be an issue.
 
bullethole1 said:
Like ^ said ...its either scope,rings,or rifle .
Click to expand...

Not necessarily... You can have the best of the best scope, rings, and rifle, and still get crappy groups if you're not using the "right" ammo for that gun.

To the OP

What bullet weights are you using? Yes, different brands will perform differently, but the most significant changes will likely be between different bullet weights.

What caliber is it? If we know the caliber, we can look at the twist rate on Browning's website and figure out what bullet weights will likely perform the best.

Does your A-Bolt have the BOSS? If so, make sure it is set at the "0" position on the muzzle brake portion and the locking ring. Then shoot for your best groups with the ammo you're trying. Pick the one with the smallest groups and start turning the BOSS to the "1" position, then the "2" position, and so on. Your groups will likely get smaller and smaller, then get bigger. When it does, go back to the last setting and that's the optimum setting for that ammo.

If the BOSS is loose, you need to tighten it up (by hand, no tools!!) and then see how you're grouping.
 
Not even sure what the BOSS is, Ive been around guns all my life and own quite a few and never heard of it. Anyway the scope is brand new, from the box to the gun. The gun is a .270 A Bolt Medallion. 2009 Model I believe. Also Ive been shooting 150s but im going to try some 130s in it
 
From the posts above, opinions vary widely with personal experience.

In lots of years of shooting, I have never had tight rings (cheap or expensive) cause the kind of inaccuracy that you are experiencing.
However, loose mounts with tight rings can cause inaccuracy like that, but if you have verfied your rings and mounts are tight and stable, you should look elsewhere before you start changing rings.
Rings and mounts that are tight have caused me problems with point of aim and inability to get the scope to adjust for that, but not variations in groups.
Scope failures (with both cheap or expensive scopes) and ammo, yes, but never tight rings and mounts, in my experience.

You didn't say what bullet weights of velocities you are shooting.
It could simply be a mis match between your rifle's preferences and the ammo you are shooting.
I have found that cheap Wolf ammo shot 2+ inch groups in a rifle that shoots under 0.5 inches with its favorite loads, so you could have ammo issues, especially if you A bolt likes a different bullet weight than you are shooting.

My new CZ 550 in .30-06 shot over 1 MOA with 150 grains and is now consistently shooting around 0.6 inches with 200 grain bullets.
I am now going to try 220 grainers.

I would recommend you switch to a different scope, make sure the rail mounts are tight and that the rings are tight, and see if there is any improvement.

If not, it could be your ammo or, if you're unlucky, your new rifle is not going to be a tight group shooter.
 
Not even sure what the BOSS is, Ive been around guns all my life and own quite a few and never heard of it.
Click to expand...

BOSS = Ballistic Optimizing Shooting System, It's basically an adjustable muzzle break. The reason it's adjustable is so you can alter the harmonics of the barrel. It is my understanding that you can now buy a replacement BOSS attachment sans muzzle break to decrease the volume from the muzzle experienced by the shooter.

A-Bolt without BOSS
A-Bolt-Medallion-MID-035002-m.jpg


A-Bolt with BOSS
A-Bolt-Eclipse-Hunter-with-BOSS-MID-035005-m.jpg


Here's a link to Browning's suggested "Sweet Spot" for different calibers and bullet weights.
http://www.browning.com/customerservice/qna/detail.asp?ID=109
 
Ok I didnt know that, but no I dont have that on mine. Anyway Ive tried all 150gr ammo shooting around 2800 fps muzzle velocity. Im thinking of trying a 130gr bullet and seeing what that does. Like I said this is just bought for a whitetail hunting rifle and thats it, I have my other toys for paper punchers.
 
Long ago,there were only so many choices.I was never real impressed by the twist in bases with the opposing screws,like Redfield,Leupold,Burris,etc. Weaver was the only picatinny style.Weavers were cheap,rugged,light weight,strong,and had an application for about any rifle.Weavers have performed all over the world on all sorts of rifles for decades.

No,the aren't perfect,that formed top strap with the hook and two screws is questionable. how you tighten the screws matters.The scope can turn as you tighten.They don't look all that good.

I have Weavers on my 257.They have been holding 6x Leupold over 20 years.I zero at 300 yds.You can still hide a group with a donut,and year to year it holds zero very well,a couple clicks of fine tune,maybe.

I'm using Leupold PRW's these days.They are real good,but the Weavers are still much lighter,lower,and cheaper.
 
My Savage didn't care for the 150 gr, Corelokts, and it's not crazy about the 130 gr Superformance stuff from Hornady.. I'm currently working up a load for the Nosler Ballistic-Tip with a starting load of 51.5 grains of IMR 4350- 54.0 grains, shooting five rounds of each loading, increased by .5 grains, until I reach 54 grn. Give that a try,,, start low,, work up until your rifle settles on a loading.:) And for what it's worth, I love my Leupold bases and rings, but their not necessarily the best, I have had great experience with them staying where their supposed to!;)
 
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