How I made a wet tumbler for cleaning brass:

G.O. West

New member
This tumbler did not cost me anything.
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I scrounged a left-over 18" length of 8" dia. (8 3/4" O.D.) white PVC sewer pipe from a building contractor. I cut off 10" and smoothed and trued up the ends, (turned it on a metal lathe) and finished up with a length of 9 1/2". Then I cut out 2 discs of 3/4" x 8" dia. of Teflon (just what was lying around) the same dia. as the inside the pipe. I cut notches in them to hold four paddles.
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I also trued up the leftover piece of sewer pipe and use it for a stand for the tumbler. In one Teflon disc, which will sit inside the top of the tumbler, I cut out four radiuses as pictured below to make it easy to remove. The bottom disc was left a full circle.
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Then from 3/4" plywood I cut two 8 3/4" dia. discs for the top and bottom caps.

I took a 3/4" steel shaft and turned the ends down enough to thread them with a 9/16” thread. This reduced diameter leaves a shoulder on each end of the shaft. The distance between the two shoulders is whatever is required so that after having placed a washer at each shoulder, the top Teflon disc is held tightly between the top washer and the top plywood cap when everything is assembled. This prevents the Teflon from turning a bit when tumbling.
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Then I cut four paddles out of 3/16" Plexiglas 1 1/2" wide. (Plexiglas was just what I had lying around). The paddles are fully inserted into the notches cut in the bottom disc of Teflon, and are long enough to be flush with the top of the sewer pipe.
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After the bottom is assembled as pictured, it is glued on to the sewer pipe with the paddles in place using CHEMLINK M1 Structural Adhesive/Sealant caulking. Everything is held in place while the caulking dries by also putting the top pieces in place and tightening up the top nut which pulls everything tightly together. (M1 dries using moisture as a reactant.)
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I cut a rubber washer from an old logging truck tube. It goes on top of the top Teflon disc and under the top plywood cap. I also cut a section from an old bicycle tube and slid it over the steel shaft on the inside of the tumbler so the brass wouldn’t be banging against steel when it tumbled. (That may be unnecessary.) I put a big steel washer on top of everything and she's all done. (See the first photo.) So, the top is removable to put in the pins, water and brass; while the bottom is permanently glued in place. When adding or removing its contents I place the tumbler on the short left-over piece of sewer pipe because with the steel shaft sticking out the bottom it won't otherwise stand up straight on its own.

If anyone is interested I can show how I made the apparatus with the rollers to rotate the drum.
 
Although I have a FART, I am interested in your design. Post your rotation power assembly. Looks good so far, and the best part is it was free!
 
G.O. West
Great Job . It's a great feeling to be able to do a project like that . I have the Tumblers B tumbler , it's a nice unit but making your own , that's really something. Again Great Work.

Chris
 
Here is my rotation power assembly:
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For rollers, I took two 1” O.D. steel pipes, lubricated them with dish soap and forced 1” I.D. automotive rad type hose over the top, and then I put bearings on each end. I had to reduce the diameter of the pipe a bit to fit the bearings that I had.
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The little chair caster in the picture rides against the large steel washer on the top of my tumbler drum as it rotates. I built the wooden box out of 5/8” plywood, and made it to lean a little tiny bit towards the side with the caster so that the drum would ride against it.

Then I took two 5/8” dia. long steel bolts (rescued from some old telephone poles) and placed one through the center of each pipe, first having placed a small pulley of the same dia. right behind the head on each bolt. These pulleys are on the caster side under the wooden guard, so you can’t see them in the photo. A Vee belt runs on them to make both rollers turn under power. On one of the bolts, on the opposite side I put a large dia. pulley for speed reduction from the motor. (Whatever size is necessary, given the dia. & RPM of the drive pulley, to make the drum rotate about 60 RPM.) The pulleys are held firmly without a key by the tightening of the nuts on those long bolts.
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Small metal tabs are screwed into the wood and projecting over the outside rim of the bearing races on the outside surface of the wooden box to prevent the bearings from falling out. They can’t fall in because of the little shoulder on the pipe that was the result of reducing the pipe’s dia. where the bearings sit. Not very pretty, but it works well and was free since I had all the material lying around.
 
I was going to help someone make a tumbler, I do not need one. A friend was having trouble with one that he started on that was a big as a concrete mixer. Electrically he was having trouble with the variable speed, we fixed that, he started with a machine that had serial number ONE. I did a little research and found there were only two of the machines made.

Another reloaders wanted one so I suggest we start with making the drum on my arm saw. For him it got too complicated when I explained to him we had to make compound cuts if he want a cylinder . That was when he got interested in my big tumbler that holds 1,000 cases or 75 pounds. It was about that fime he lost interest.

F. Guffey
 
great job GO West. I used something similar for dry tumbling for years mounted between centers on a lathe but never did any wet stuff in it.
 
This tumbler did not cost me anything.

Not really true. You have acquired a lifetime of know-how and skill that would take years, education, and a lot of money for others to obtain.

The paint and canvas value of the Mona Lisa is about $3.50.

Nice design.
 
A guy I worked with made a canister out of a 12" aluminum pipe with some 1" angle as agitators. He had a rack in the back of his Suburban that this thing would roll back and forth when he was driving. He could clean two batches a week on his commute to work.
 
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