I copied this idea from someone else's Youtube video, but I thought that what I have learned in the process of making one might be useful to someone else who wants to do the same.
I paid $15 for a pair of motors from Amazon (TYC turntable motors, 120 volts, 5 to 6 RPM, CCW/CW). I initially thought I would use one of the motors for an automatic feed, but later decided that I didn't want to walk away leaving the propane burning. So if I'm going to stand there anyway, I might as well keep an eye on the temperature and manually place cases on the feed shelf. The only other item I had to buy was a Bernzomatic WHO159 Universal Torch Extension Hose for $20. By the way, those motors tend to run in either direction when you turn them on regardless of which way you wire them; so I just give the drum a gentle counterclockwise tug when I flip the switch on, and that solves it.
I cut the 6" dia. round drum from the bottom of a tin coffee can, and also cut out a small opening on one side. As it rotates counterclockwise, when the opening reaches the angle iron feed shelf, a cartridge case falls into the drum and comes to rest on the round steel bar inside. As the drum continues to rotate, friction causes the cartridge case to also rotate. This helps the flame from the propane torch to heat the brass evenly all around during the approximate seven seconds it takes for the opening in the drum to come around to underneath the heated case, whereupon it falls through the opening, rolls down the bottom shelf and drops into the old bread pan. The intensity of the propane torch flame is adjustable, as is the distance between the flame and the cartridge case, as well as the angle of the torch for shorter or longer cases. In the photo, one cartridge is heating up while the second is in the feed tray waiting for its turn.
The drum is 1-5/8" deep and this depth works well for the cases I am currently reloading: 30-30, 30-06, 303 British (also fireforming to 410 shotgun), 348 Win (also fireforming to 450 Alaskan), and 375 H&H. Cases shorter than 30-30 would need a shallower drum.
In the above photo you will see that the leading edge of the opening cut in the drum is cut on a bit of an angle. This is because of the steep taper on my 348 Winchester cases. Otherwise they do not fall horizontally onto the round bar inside the drum. There is also a notch cut out for the case rims since many of my cases are rimmed. These rims also necessitate a 1/8" gap between the angle iron feed shelf and the tin backing plate behind it. This is so that the rimmed cases will roll down nicely. It is also the reason why the angle iron has to be mounted facing down.
Notice the large gap between the feed shelf and the big box. This has to be wide enough so that the base of the case clears the bottom of the drum when rolling down this shelf and into the opening in the drum.
To attach the drum to the motor I cut off about a 5/8" long piece from 1" dia. aluminum round stock. I drilled a hole through the center for the motor shaft. The shaft comes with a horizontal hole already in it, so drill a corresponding hole sideways through the aluminum coupler and secure it with a machine screw. The drum is bolted onto this aluminum coupler with two 6-32 machine screws that run lengthwise all the way through. The entire coupler sits on the outside of the front of the box. I also placed a 4" dia. x 1/16" thick metal disc on both sides of the bottom of the drum to make it stronger.
The main box is made from old furnace ducting pop rivited together. It is 14-1/2" L x 11-1/4" H x 5" W and tilted back at 16 degrees. The top feed shelf is tilted 30 degrees down, and the bottom shelf at 14 degrees. The bar inside the drum that the cases rest against while being heated is at the 4:30 clock position. The feed shelf is 1-1/2" angle iron x 4-1/2" long. My wife's old bread pan that collects the annealed cases is 9" x 5".
I ran forty 303 cases through it yesterday and it works very well.
_________________________________
Ecc 11:4 He that observeth the wind shall not sow; and he that regardeth the clouds shall not reap.
I paid $15 for a pair of motors from Amazon (TYC turntable motors, 120 volts, 5 to 6 RPM, CCW/CW). I initially thought I would use one of the motors for an automatic feed, but later decided that I didn't want to walk away leaving the propane burning. So if I'm going to stand there anyway, I might as well keep an eye on the temperature and manually place cases on the feed shelf. The only other item I had to buy was a Bernzomatic WHO159 Universal Torch Extension Hose for $20. By the way, those motors tend to run in either direction when you turn them on regardless of which way you wire them; so I just give the drum a gentle counterclockwise tug when I flip the switch on, and that solves it.
I cut the 6" dia. round drum from the bottom of a tin coffee can, and also cut out a small opening on one side. As it rotates counterclockwise, when the opening reaches the angle iron feed shelf, a cartridge case falls into the drum and comes to rest on the round steel bar inside. As the drum continues to rotate, friction causes the cartridge case to also rotate. This helps the flame from the propane torch to heat the brass evenly all around during the approximate seven seconds it takes for the opening in the drum to come around to underneath the heated case, whereupon it falls through the opening, rolls down the bottom shelf and drops into the old bread pan. The intensity of the propane torch flame is adjustable, as is the distance between the flame and the cartridge case, as well as the angle of the torch for shorter or longer cases. In the photo, one cartridge is heating up while the second is in the feed tray waiting for its turn.
The drum is 1-5/8" deep and this depth works well for the cases I am currently reloading: 30-30, 30-06, 303 British (also fireforming to 410 shotgun), 348 Win (also fireforming to 450 Alaskan), and 375 H&H. Cases shorter than 30-30 would need a shallower drum.
In the above photo you will see that the leading edge of the opening cut in the drum is cut on a bit of an angle. This is because of the steep taper on my 348 Winchester cases. Otherwise they do not fall horizontally onto the round bar inside the drum. There is also a notch cut out for the case rims since many of my cases are rimmed. These rims also necessitate a 1/8" gap between the angle iron feed shelf and the tin backing plate behind it. This is so that the rimmed cases will roll down nicely. It is also the reason why the angle iron has to be mounted facing down.
Notice the large gap between the feed shelf and the big box. This has to be wide enough so that the base of the case clears the bottom of the drum when rolling down this shelf and into the opening in the drum.
To attach the drum to the motor I cut off about a 5/8" long piece from 1" dia. aluminum round stock. I drilled a hole through the center for the motor shaft. The shaft comes with a horizontal hole already in it, so drill a corresponding hole sideways through the aluminum coupler and secure it with a machine screw. The drum is bolted onto this aluminum coupler with two 6-32 machine screws that run lengthwise all the way through. The entire coupler sits on the outside of the front of the box. I also placed a 4" dia. x 1/16" thick metal disc on both sides of the bottom of the drum to make it stronger.
The main box is made from old furnace ducting pop rivited together. It is 14-1/2" L x 11-1/4" H x 5" W and tilted back at 16 degrees. The top feed shelf is tilted 30 degrees down, and the bottom shelf at 14 degrees. The bar inside the drum that the cases rest against while being heated is at the 4:30 clock position. The feed shelf is 1-1/2" angle iron x 4-1/2" long. My wife's old bread pan that collects the annealed cases is 9" x 5".
I ran forty 303 cases through it yesterday and it works very well.
_________________________________
Ecc 11:4 He that observeth the wind shall not sow; and he that regardeth the clouds shall not reap.