colostomyclown
New member
I posted this on THR, thought I'd put it on here. If you disagree with anything I say, by all means chime in. I've personally found this system to produce the best results on my Mossberg shotguns. It's shotgun specific because on the Mossberg you can completely strip the receiver and I suppose it could be applied to a 1300 Defender. anyhow, this method has kept my Mossbergs running beautifully (8-10 of them alone over the past year and a half-2 years) and used a barebones variety of it on my old Winchester Ranger 120 and NEF break barrel 20 for YEARS and YEARS of hard use without a single bit of rust or malfunction. I apply this method to any gun new or used that enters my possession, both on acquisition as well as after every 500 rounds or so, before long term storage and if any repairs/modifications need to be done. If storing the gun long term, I'd probably finish the process out using a moderate coat of EEZOX or Cosmoline if you can find it, and, if storing the weapon in a soft or hard shell case, storing it in a storage bag WITHIN the case (like an Aloksak) and/or using silica gel.
When I get the gun, I fieldstrip it. I even remove the extractor and screw and I open up the mag tube whether its a 590 or 500 or not. I put all of the internal parts (elevator, shell stop and interruptor, bolt, bolt slide, extractor, extractor screw, magazine follower and endcap if its a 590) in a pile on a towl or old sheet and spray them with CLP Powder Blast and then let them sit.
I then spray spray/apply 3-in-1 oil or any heavier oil, even Mobil-1 to the inside of the magazine tube liberally and let it coat the inside on it's own. attach a cleaning rod to a drill with a bore mop end and some old cloth or cleaning patches tied around the bore mop tightly so the thing will only insert into the magazine tube really firm, you may have to start the drill spinning to help guide it in. Don't mangle up the threads on the end, you'll know if it's TOO big to go in. It's important that it's tight like those so it exerts some friction on the inside of the tube in order to polish any crust on the inside. the Mossberg tubes usually come pretty dirty and gnarly except on the 590a1's, and even then they could use it. Move the drill through the tube, polishing back and forth in one slow, all the way forward and all the way back motion while the drill spins. You'll smell hot oil and the tube may even warm up due to the friction. This is good. You can't OVER polish so do a good job. I finish out by cleaning ALL residual oil out of the inside with Hoppes or Powder blast, then EXTREMELY lightly oil with CLP Breakfree. Wipe the spring off clean with a rag and set them both aside.
Now liberally cover the receiver inside and out with a heavier oil like 3-in-1 or or Mobil One. I like any heavy oil. Go decent but dont over do it. Rub it in with your fingers or a cloth so the surface is downright slippery. I then apply intense heat froma blowdryer or heat gun until the parts and receiver are red hot. I then wipe everything off extremely well with a cloth. I lightly oil everything with CLP breakfree and reassemble the receiver and mag tube. Now for the barrel.
I polish ALL my chambers the same way I do the mag tube. It's not as heavy duty as some other methods of polishing but I've never needed anything heavier, even on relatively "rough" 870 chambers. After I polish the chamber and to a certain extent the forcing cone, I spray the barrel with CLP Powder Blast and let it sit for about 10 minutes. I use only patches at first - a new gun, even if the barrel looks somewhat dirty, shouldn't require a brass brush. I only use a brush after moderate-heavy shooting (50 shells+). I run patches soaked with Hoppes Nitro or Hoppes no. 9 through until they start coming out cleaner. I then use a patch sprayed with CLP breakfree through until the barrel looks shiny and relatively dry. Voila.
After putting about 500 rounds through it or when ready to store long term, I repeat the process, or as needed. At that point, you may want to further tweak and polish/deburr parts and/or the bolt, but that's up to speculation and something not really needed to be worried about now.
In closing, products I DO recommend for maintenance/cleaningprotection :
CLP Breakfree and CLP Powder Blast (smells ok, cleans great and protects serviceably but Powder Blast does leave a slight residue)
Hoppes Nitro Solvent (smells good, cleans better)
Hoppes no. 9 (the old standby, works everytime, strong smell but it's like an old friend now)
Eezox or Cosmoline
Mobil-1, Castrol, any heavy oil, motor or otherwise but only used in the manner prescribed. Not for use as an action oil or barrel lube.
Products I definitely DO NOT :
Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. Hands down THE worst product I've ever used. Leaves a massive white residue on nearly every surface and is unbelievably weak as a cleaner. I literally thought it was making my gun dirtier as my gun was cleaning as slow and arduous as a Mosin Nagant with it. I honestly may as well have used water. Avoid.
Remoil. Not a fan of the product you get for the name brand price. It does it's job but it stinks, and every bottle seems underfilled and runs out of pressure faster than it runs out of liquid.
When I get the gun, I fieldstrip it. I even remove the extractor and screw and I open up the mag tube whether its a 590 or 500 or not. I put all of the internal parts (elevator, shell stop and interruptor, bolt, bolt slide, extractor, extractor screw, magazine follower and endcap if its a 590) in a pile on a towl or old sheet and spray them with CLP Powder Blast and then let them sit.
I then spray spray/apply 3-in-1 oil or any heavier oil, even Mobil-1 to the inside of the magazine tube liberally and let it coat the inside on it's own. attach a cleaning rod to a drill with a bore mop end and some old cloth or cleaning patches tied around the bore mop tightly so the thing will only insert into the magazine tube really firm, you may have to start the drill spinning to help guide it in. Don't mangle up the threads on the end, you'll know if it's TOO big to go in. It's important that it's tight like those so it exerts some friction on the inside of the tube in order to polish any crust on the inside. the Mossberg tubes usually come pretty dirty and gnarly except on the 590a1's, and even then they could use it. Move the drill through the tube, polishing back and forth in one slow, all the way forward and all the way back motion while the drill spins. You'll smell hot oil and the tube may even warm up due to the friction. This is good. You can't OVER polish so do a good job. I finish out by cleaning ALL residual oil out of the inside with Hoppes or Powder blast, then EXTREMELY lightly oil with CLP Breakfree. Wipe the spring off clean with a rag and set them both aside.
Now liberally cover the receiver inside and out with a heavier oil like 3-in-1 or or Mobil One. I like any heavy oil. Go decent but dont over do it. Rub it in with your fingers or a cloth so the surface is downright slippery. I then apply intense heat froma blowdryer or heat gun until the parts and receiver are red hot. I then wipe everything off extremely well with a cloth. I lightly oil everything with CLP breakfree and reassemble the receiver and mag tube. Now for the barrel.
I polish ALL my chambers the same way I do the mag tube. It's not as heavy duty as some other methods of polishing but I've never needed anything heavier, even on relatively "rough" 870 chambers. After I polish the chamber and to a certain extent the forcing cone, I spray the barrel with CLP Powder Blast and let it sit for about 10 minutes. I use only patches at first - a new gun, even if the barrel looks somewhat dirty, shouldn't require a brass brush. I only use a brush after moderate-heavy shooting (50 shells+). I run patches soaked with Hoppes Nitro or Hoppes no. 9 through until they start coming out cleaner. I then use a patch sprayed with CLP breakfree through until the barrel looks shiny and relatively dry. Voila.
After putting about 500 rounds through it or when ready to store long term, I repeat the process, or as needed. At that point, you may want to further tweak and polish/deburr parts and/or the bolt, but that's up to speculation and something not really needed to be worried about now.
In closing, products I DO recommend for maintenance/cleaningprotection :
CLP Breakfree and CLP Powder Blast (smells ok, cleans great and protects serviceably but Powder Blast does leave a slight residue)
Hoppes Nitro Solvent (smells good, cleans better)
Hoppes no. 9 (the old standby, works everytime, strong smell but it's like an old friend now)
Eezox or Cosmoline
Mobil-1, Castrol, any heavy oil, motor or otherwise but only used in the manner prescribed. Not for use as an action oil or barrel lube.
Products I definitely DO NOT :
Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. Hands down THE worst product I've ever used. Leaves a massive white residue on nearly every surface and is unbelievably weak as a cleaner. I literally thought it was making my gun dirtier as my gun was cleaning as slow and arduous as a Mosin Nagant with it. I honestly may as well have used water. Avoid.
Remoil. Not a fan of the product you get for the name brand price. It does it's job but it stinks, and every bottle seems underfilled and runs out of pressure faster than it runs out of liquid.
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