How I coated my '58 Remy grips to look just like ivory

Bill Akins

New member
A couple of weeks ago I posted about how I was hunting for the white rubberized coating in a spray can to refinish my '58 Remy grips with. Well everyone had the rubberized coating but no one had it in stock in white (although it is manufactured in white).

Since it was such a hassle trying to find that in white color....I decided to switch tactics. If I couldn't have a white coating that was rubberized (which I theorized would give me an excellent grip), I wanted an epoxy hard coating.

I found what I wanted at Home Depot. Just the thing. Glossy appliance white, actually labeled "hard" epoxy paint. Snow white. As white as George Hamilton's teeth white. Here's what the can looks like in case anyone wants to pick up a can....
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The grips on my stainless specially modified '58 target Remy were very dark when I bought it used. So dark brown they were almost ebony. When I removed them for this project and carefully looked at the grip screw escutcheon brass bushings, I could see that they had carelessly been painted right over with a very dark brown paint. I was able to scratch the paint off the brass escutcheons with my fingernail. And on the backside of my grips I could see that the wood was a much lighter walnut color. Evidently someone had painted them very dark brown with a top coat of lacquer or polyurethane at some point in time before I got the Remy.

Anyway....I lightly sanded the grips to get the slick smoothness off them so the new primer would adhere better. I lightly sanded them with a little 320 and then 600 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper (I used it wet).

The glossy white appliance hard epoxy paint requires no primer. Says so right on the can. But then again I wasn't using it on a fridge or washing machine metal as it was designed for, I was using it on wood. So just to make sure, I gave my grips a light coat of automotive grey primer and sanded that with 600 grit. I temporarily removed the brass escutcheons and plugged the hole where they had been with a .38 special case (fits tight and perfect) to prevent too much paint buildup in the hole. So that when I wanted to reinstall the escutcheons again the paint and polyurethane would not have built up inside the hole. I did allow a very light coat to go into the hole before I plugged it up with the .38 cases though, because I wanted a little paint into the hole to make sure the escutcheons would fit tightly again when re-installed. I removed the .38 cases before I took my photos.

Anyway.... After a light coat of primer and sanding with 600 grit, then I sprayed them with the hard epoxy appliance white paint and let them dry. As in this photo....
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You can see how "white white" they were. I checked them against what I considered the white grips of my 1860 Pietta and noticed that my 1860's grips weren't actually "white white" but were more eggs shell/light ivory colored than the Remy grips I had just painted with the epoxy appliance white paint. So.....

next I gave my Remy grips several coats of clear polyurethane. I had noticed previously (on a different project) that "clear" polyurethane actually isn't "clear" at all, but is slightly yellowish when painted over white.

That did the trick and after several coats of clear polyurethane over the appliance white epoxy paint, my grips came out looking exactly like real ivory grips. Here's the finished project.

How my grips originally looked with dark brown paint. Someone had even carelessly painted right over the grip's brass escutcheon bushings before I bought the Remy....
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How it looks now, with the brass escutcheons NOT painted over and grips looking like real ivory.....
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My camera pictures don't really do justice to the grips. They look just like real ivory. Just like I wanted them to look. You would never know they were really wood underneath. And with several polyurethane top coats and several coats too of very hard epoxy paint underneath, they should give good service before needing to be repainted....which is easy to do. I am very satisfied with how they turned out. What a difference in looks they make to the gun. I mean they look and feel just like ivory. Kinda surprised myself with how well they turned out! Lol.

So if any of you fellas want to get an ivory grip look, do just like I did. Instead of buying a new set of grips, just repaint your old ones with glossy, hard epoxy, appliance white paint and then coat them with "clear" polyurethane which will perfectly yellow them just enough to be dead on slightly yellowish ivory color.

Why did I use the white appliance paint with clear polyurethane over it instead of just using an ivory colored paint to begin with? Well....because I couldn't find a ivory colored HARD finish, EPOXY paint in a spray can, that would be as hard a finish as the finish of the very hard epoxy appliance white paint that I used. They didn't have an ivory version of that spray can hard epoxy paint at home depot. They only had the white white version. I didn't want to get into a whole scavenger hunt thing like I had previously gone on the unsuccessful hunt for the white rubberized coating earlier.

I have a compressor and paint guns, but didn't want to go through that whole mess just to paint one set of grips. I wanted something simple and easy and that would be a spray can. I think everything actually worked out for the better in the long run with the way my project turned out. If I had used the white rubberized coating I was planning on earlier, they wouldn't have looked ivory, but would have been white white. So everything turned out for the best after all. Since I already had the sandpaper and clear polyurethane spray can, I only had to buy the appliance glossy white, hard epoxy spray paint can. Total cost to get my grips ivory looking = $5.33 including tax....plus my time and labor.

Whatcha think fellas? Look good to you?


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As I mentioned in my previous post, the grips on my 1860 looked white to me. But when I compared the what I previously thought were white 1860 factory grips to the appliance hard epoxy white that I painted my Remy grips BEFORE I top coated them with clear polyurethane, even my thought to be totally white 1860 grips looked slightly yellowish/eggshell compared to the super white white appliance white hard epoxy Remy grips before I top coated them with clear polyurethane. But once I top coated the super white white Remy grips with "clear" polyurethane, the polyurethane gave a slightly yellowish cast to the Remy grips that perfectly imitated real ivory....as you can see in the picture comparisons below between my 1860 and the Remy.....

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I think this is the answer to inexpensively getting ivory looking grips for our revolvers fellas.
I had previously thought about just buying ivory looking grips like at this link...
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=234154358

But there were several reason why I didn't buy another set and instead just re-coated my old grips instead.

1. The cost of buying even fake ivory grips. Not much money, but unnecessary and why spend if you don't have to.

2. The vendor would not guarantee me that his grips would fit my gun and he wouldn't even accept frame tracings from my Remy to see if his grips would fit it. I told him that I had tried and that my other Pietta Remy grips would not fit this stainless Pietta Remy of mine correctly and asked how could I tell if his would fit since my Remy's are all Pietta's but the grips would not interchangeably fit. He didn't have an answer. And he also said his grips were not oversize so I didn't even have the option to sand them to fit my Remy perfectly. So if I bought his and they were too small, I would have just been out of luck since he didn't give refunds for non fit.

There are vendors who will accept a tracing of your frame you send to them so they can make their grips just slightly oversize to your tracings, so you can sand them to perfectly fit, but they cost about $60.00 for the least expensive set too. My re-coating cost me $5.33

3. Extremely unlikely that ANY mail order set of grips would fit my Remy as well as the original grips that were already on it. I already KNOW the original grips fit it perfectly. So I stuck with them and just re-coated them.


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Wow Bill! They turned out great! They really look nice. The color of the polyurethane gave them a nice mellow look as well. If there is one thing that bugs me about the repros, it is the wood they use for their grips. What is often advertised as "walnut" never saw a "nut". As a cabinetmaker by trade, I know that it is a question of "price per unit" but I'd sure like to see an improvement in the quality and species that they use. I just picked up a stainless Remington and I've been toying with the idea of putting some ivories on it. Your results sure look good! I'll be anxious to hear how they "hold up" under use - I would think with the type of paint you used and the poly that they'll hold up just fine - better than the original finish that usually comes on 'em. Thanks for sharing and showing the photos - very interesting! :)
 
No two Italian grip frames are the same. The grips are installed and the grips and frame are final finished together. I always thought clear polyurethane was clear. I know polyurethane spar varnish has a yellow tint to it even tho it says it's clear.
 
I think you will be happy with the wear properties of that epoxy paint, I work in the truck repair area of a small truck fleet.

some time around 1 year ago I replaced the floor in one of our straight trucks and used that paint (in black) to cover the sill plate at the back of the truck floor, this is where the forklift trucks hit the truck floor when loading the truck, the paint shows "some" wear but is mostly still covers the metal.

If towmoters can't wear it off, your hands won't.
 
That looks great, Bill! I honestly wouldn't have thought that the paint would have looked that good, but I'm impressed!
 
Glad you fellas like them. After the epoxy and polyurethane coatings were dry enough to handle without leaving any fingerprints or marks on them by handling them (a day after I did the final poly coat), and after I had taken the pictures I posted, I also rubbed some pure virgin olive oil into them. I wasn't sure if it would soak in past the polyurethane layer, but I think it did and appears to have deepened the ivory look a little more. At any rate I rubbed in the olive oil and it seemed to soak in. They are totally dry now and fully cured and the olive oil doesn't make them oily on the outside at all. In fact they are dry and give a very good grip but at the same time feel....."supple" I guess is the best word to describe it. I guess you could equate it with a set of wooden grips that you had rubbed linseed oil into that soaked into the wood....making the wood feel supple and not dried out, but at the same time did not make the wood feel oily or slick....and gave you a good hand hold. It's a hard texture to describe. A dry grip but one that doesn't feel dried out. All I know is I like it.

If any of you fellas try coating them like I described and have problems where you can't get them looking right or something, send them to me and I'll coat them for you. No charge. But try it yourself first. All you need is one can of grey automotive primer paint, one can of appliance white hard epoxy paint, one can of clear polyurethane and a little 320 or 220 and 600 grit sandpaper.....as described in my earlier posts. All available at Home Depot. Then like I did, after one day of the final poly coat drying enough to where handling won't hurt it but not yet FULLY cured, rub some virgin olive oil into it. Give it a try. It worked great for me and I'm itching to do another set now. I've got a BP revolver coming in this week or the next that it would look great on. A Pietta 1851 "stainless" engraved short barreled "Marshal" that isn't really stainless but some kind of steel that is like stainless. More on that in a later post when it comes in.


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Yesterday my Pietta 1851 "Marshall" arrived. Barely used and fired and I got it at a great price for $230.00 including shipping. As seen in my above posts, I've found an effective way to inexpensively coat my grips to look like ivory. But the last set of Remy grips I did had already been previously painted brown and were at no risk of messing them up by doing my ivory coating. The grips on my new 1851 Marshall appear to be walnut with some very minor tiny dings on the bottom edges that could easily be filled or even sanded out. But also there are some raised imperfections on the top and middle on the left side of the grips from improper surfacing and sanding at the factory....that you can see in the below photo of the revolver facing to the left. They are pretty obvious even more so than in the pics. The right side of the grips do not have raised imperfections and are okay. Being a detailed oriented person, stuff like the raised imperfections on the top and middle of the left grip bugs me. If I coat them as ivory, I could sand those raised imperfections out before coating them so they would look correct.

So.....I am torn as to whether I should ivory coat them or leave them as is. Here's some below photos of the "Marshall" and its grips and one photo I modified in photoshop to show how it would look with ivory grips. I need to make a decision on whether to ivory coat the grips or not....(keeping in mind that most of my BP revolver grips are already faux ivory gripped).

I know the decision is mine to make, but what do you fellas think? Ivory coat the grips or not?

This below pic's arrows point to the raised imperfections on the left grip. Top raised ridge is vertical and about 3/4" while raised ridge in middle of grip is longer. Not horrible but a factory oversight in finely finishing the left grip.
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Same pic but for comparison I photoshopped grips ivory........
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(Actually I colored them much too white in photoshop, they would actually come out more ivory yellow looking, just like my Remy grips did. So take that into account as you look at them.) Coat or not to coat? Which would you do?


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many thanx,

this is an excellent thread & one of the many reasons i throughly enjoy having been around as a member.;)

S.M.
 
Looks good but I would be interested to see how the paint holds up over time.

Did you happen to test the paint's reaction to solvents before using it?
Just curious.

And if you're one to use hot water, I'd be concerned about the paint cracking with the wood contracting and expanding.
 
I really do not think that would be a problem if the gun is disassembled before putting it in hot water. Simply don't immerse the wooden grips!
 
Dino wrote:
Did you happen to test the paint's reaction to solvents before using it?

No I didn't Dino. But I normally just use hot soapy water cleaning my BP revolvers. So I'd never have solvents near the grips. On those rare occasions that I might use carburetor cleaner in my cylinder chambers to deeply cleanse them,....the cylinder would be off the revolver and nowhere near the grips. And if I want to deep cleanse my frame such as those seldom times I boil it in soapy water, I of course remove the grips first. So I don't view whether solvents would harm the coating finish I put on the grips as an issue. At least in my experience anyway.



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Mykeal wrote:
You asked for opinions: Return the gun; those grip imperfections are unacceptable.

I couldn't return the revolver if I wanted to Mykeal. I bought it at auction on gunbroker. But I wouldn't want to return it. It has only had a few rounds fired through it and is in like new perfect condition except for those slight imperfections on the left grip. There isn't a scratch or blemish on it except for those slight two ridges on the left grip.

And....I got it for $230.00 INCLUDING shipping when at Cabelas at the below link they go for $400.00 NOT including shipping.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Piet...tta+Marshall&WTz_l=Header;Search-All+Products

So I've got no complaints about it. I could easily sand those two ridges on the left grip down and linseed oil the sanded wood on them to fix those imperfections, but I'm torn between doing that or simply faux ivory coating the grips like I did my Remy.

But my question and request for opinions was.....which one do you think looks best on the 1851 Marshall, the wood grip look or the ivory grip look as in my previous posts pictures in this thread of my Remy?


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Clembert wrote:
Nice job Bill Akins!

Thanks Clembert and thanks to the other fellas who posted they liked my newly discovered faux ivory grip coating method too.

Now would y'all faux ivory coat my new Marshall's grips or leave them as wood?
Which way do y'all think looks best? I'm trying to decide if I should faux ivory coat them or not.




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Given only the two choices, I'd leave them wood.

But my third choice would be a set of American Holly.

Why can't you return a gun purchased on Gunbroker.com?
 
I saw a gun treated much as above that the owner had taken some very coarse sandpaper, made a single pass down each grip adding scratches ranging from very shallow to deep. He rubbed antiquing stain into the scratches and then sprayed another coat of clear over them.
Looks like aged and cracked grain in the ivory. Cool!

I also like holly for grips, just not enough to pay for them.
 
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