How hard is it to change the barrel on a 686?

M

Martowski

New member
I currently have a 6" 686. However, at times, I also think it would be nice to have a 4" gun. If I were to buy a 4" 686 barrel, how hard would it be to install in place of the 6" barrel? The 686 barrels are screwed in, right, so would it simply be a matter of unscrewing one barrel and screwing in another? Is this something I would be able to swap out at random to have either a 4" or a 6" gun at will?

Thanks for you assistance!
 
I understand that Weigand has a good product, but I'm mainly asking because I saw a company advertising factory 4" 686 barrels in excellent/LN condition for $19. I thought, "Heck, if I can just buy another barrel for $19 and swap it out at random, that would be great!!!"

If it isn't possible to do this, what would a 'smith typically charge for something such as this? Or, what tools would I have to buy and how much would I have to spend to do this myself?
 
You will need a frame support jig and a gunsmith vice.
The older models, which have a barrel pin, are actually more fool proof to swap barrels because the pin serves as a guide when mating the new barrel to the frame*
*when the pin holes line up then the barrel is properly aligned.
If you do not have the frame support jig then you will warp the frame when pressure is applied in unscrewing the barrel.

I don't know, of course, your experience level concerning this particular procedure.

'IF'---you have never attempted this then I urge you not to take the chance of ruining the frame and/or the cylinder crane*
some smiths leave the crane attached when unscrewing the barrel. This gives the frame added strength 'BUT' if the mentioned parts are not supported then you have essentialy ruined the gun.
.......bottom line, leave it to the pros
Don Mallard
 
can of worms.....

........I should not have written that because it will generate more questions---which I don't mind answering.....
If the crane is left intact to remove the barrel----------
it is only left intact until the initial movement of unscrewing the barrel has been accomplished-----then the gun is removed from the jig -the crane removed--then gun placed back in the jig and the barrel is fully unscrewed.........
Don Mallard
 
Swapping out the barrel "at random" (if by that you mean swapping it out when it strikes your fancy) isn't such a good idea.

The frame wasn't designed to have the barrel repeatedly installed and removed, and it will eventually loosen to the point where the barrel will no longer be securely held.

If you want to do it yourself, the equipment that Don talks about, which is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to do the job correct without damaging the gun, will set you back close to $200.

At that point, and with the possibility of damaging your gun over the long term, just get a 4" 686.
 
If you want to switch between barrel lenghts, then look into a Dan Wesson 15 or 715(stainless). The barrels are easily changed and they even sell "pistol pacs" which contain one receiver and various barrels.
 
So, what I'm hearing is that I should either have a 4" or a 6" 686, not swap out every so often. Of course, I don't want to run the risk of damaging my frame.

About how much would a good gunsmith charge to remove the 6" barrel and properly install a 4" barrel? If that in and of itsself wouldn't set me back too much, it might be a good idea if I want to permanently change my 686 to a 4".
 
Could run around 150 bucks, includin your furnishin the parts. Seems to me that if you add that much again and just get another gun with 4" barrel you'd be ahead.

Sam
 
Well, sounds like it's best if I don't convert my current 6" to a 4". Too bad, because $19.99 for a 4" 686 barrel seems like a good deal. I guess most of the cost is in the work to re-fit, eh?
 
It would be a lot smarter just to get a second Model 686 or Model 66 with a 4" barrel (that's what I did). You can probably get a good used one for about $300 - $350. BTW: mis-installing a new barrel is probably the number one cause of ruining guns. And this is a magnum: if you crack or weaken the metal in the frame you will likely see your barrel take a fast trip downrange.
 
You use that cheap factory barrel to change to a 4-inch tube AFTER you have shot out or otherwise damaged your existing barrel.

Maybe a good excuse to wear out your gun? SHOOT MORE!!

In the meantime, rent or borrow a 4-inch and make sure that you really like it. Me, I went from a 4 to a 6, and now I'm p****d because IDPA does not consider my defense gun "defensive." Won't fit the "box", etc.
 
Martowski, either another gun, or go the Weigand Combat route. I would be cautious about the $19.99 Smith barrels. Some of the Smith barrels that were manufactured in the past did not shoot lead worth a crap. I personally asked Mr. Weigand about this, and he said that the grooves of the barrels were not deep enough, and that Smith had changed their manufacturing process. I was the opposite from you, and wanted a 6 inch barrel, so I opted for the interchangeable barrel system from Weigand. The 6 inch barrel is the only one I have right now, but I do plan on buying a 4 incher. My 686 shoots like a dream with wadcutters from Georgia Arms. The first time out with it my son and I got bored with knocking out the center of the 25 yard pistol target. I was doing most of my shooting single action because I am not as good a shot in double action. The only thing that I would do over would be to have the whole frame bead blasted by Weigand for an extra $75.00. It looks good the way it is, but I think it would look better with the bead blast frame. I am waiting on a set of Blumagnum grips for it that should be here any week now. Once I get those installled, I am going to take some pictures, and post them here on the forum. SS
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top