How exactly does Jerry Mikulek grip his revolver???

DAKODAKID

New member
Jerry shoots faster than most top semi-auto shooters so he must have a pretty unique grip..

I shoot semi-auto's and the "IPSC" grip doesn't transfer well to the revolver.

Thumb over thumb does work but I have found that taking the thumb grip out of the equation works better for day to day consistancy...

How exactly does Jerry (or the other top revolver shooters) grip the gun in competition???

I shot a reactive steel match last month with 50 people, and a group of old timers shooting wheelguns (60-80 year olds) placed in the top 15.
They beat alot of young guys with 1911 race-guns....
Wow...

PS.
(I was one of the young guys and
I didn't have a chance to ask them about their grip)...
 
I SEEN HIM

But I didn't notice anything special about his grip.

Buddy shot same squad at a big match somewhere, but he didn't notice much different either.

Maybe I'll check my autographed poster of him shootin' (he's my speedloading hero).
 
Tamara speak true.

I have no idea how Jerry does it. Works for me to have shooting hand thumb all the way down on the tip of middle finger, support hand thumb is on top of shooting hand thumb. I like very small grips, even on .44 mag.

Don't know if I am doin it right or not but cleaned a shoot couple of months ago and one of the stages required eight shots. I won that stage with six shot revolver against kids with autos. Been a while since I was "only" 60 too.

Sam.....when I grow up I wanna be a geezer.
 
There is brief mention in one of the lastest SWAT issues indicating (if I recall correctly) a high-ride thumb grip, just as high as possible without interfering with hammer movement. Check your last two or three SWATs -- I give mine to my son and therefore am unable to properly research -- for more extensive information.
 
Part1: There was a thread on rec.guns on this subject.

A shooter who took a revolver course with Mr Miculek reported his experience a few months ago. Here's the text of his original post, and it addresses some of the things pertinent to your question, such as grip and the like. Posted in 2 parts due to the lenght of the post.
PS5


From: Andrew Colglazier (andrewdy@aol.com)
Subject: Jerry Miculek Class: review and comment (long)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
View: Complete Thread (8 articles) | Original Format
Date: 2001-07-31 06:46:34 PST


I, along with several other TX shooters attended a one day course offered by Gary Burris of Tactical Shooters, with instruction by Jerry Miculek of revolver speed shooting fame, down in Houston this past weekend.

The day began for most of us at the IHOP close to our motels at 7:30 where handshakes and first names were exchanged (and or my part, promptly forgotten). That's where I first met Mr. Miculek. From there we proceeded out to Hot Wells shooting range.

We were able to use a small pistol range paved with asphalt, with room for about 24-25 IDPA style targets lined up shoulder-to shoulder just in front of the berm. Early in the day most of the range was in shade, but as the day progressed the shade withdrew, and soon we stood in full sun. The heat and the
humidity made for challenging conditions, but Gary plied us with water and soft drinks, and no one suffered any lasting consequences, aside from turning a little pink.

I only knew one or two other shooters who took the class and so am unaware of their general shooting abilities or revolver-specific competence. I have been shooting SSR since the end of last year and am classified as a SS.

I shoot a S&W Mountain Gun in .45 ACP, 4" bbl., Craig Spegel boot grips and a Kramer Sidescabbard holster. I had four moon clip holders and about 200 moonclips which I had loaded prior to the class beginning. Ammo was handloaded, 500 rds. 185 gr. Berry's MFG. round nose hollow based (RNHB) over 4
grains of Bullseye, and 500 rds. same bullet over 4.5 grains of Win. 231. Let me say that I am glad I was shooting this ammo as I would never have completed the course intact using full power ammo! I haven't counted up my brass, but I estimate I fired at least 800 rounds. Let me also say that I do not like Win 231 (dirty, dirty!) and will never reload using it again.

Jerry started off the day by making some changes to my shooting style. I normally shoot using an isosceles stance, with elbows more or less fully extended and nearly locked. He changed my stance in the following way; keep the isosceles style, but break the elbows to help absorb recoil, and raise them so that they stick out to the sides rather than down. That way, as he taught
us, the elbows would move to the sides as they took up recoil rather than allowing the weapon to rise on downward pointing elbows, as if they were springs rather than hinges. I found this to be a somewhat uncomfortable but practical change, and one I intend to practice.

The second change he made was to my style of gripping my weapon. He advocates a very high grip so that the hump just behind the hammer is in the web of your hand, at the joint of your thumb. This isn't a big change for me, but the next
alteration was. Jerry wanted us to rotate the grip of the weapon so that it was in line with the center of your body rather than in line with the shooting arm. The hand should move more to the side of the weapon so that more trigger finger could extend through the trigger guard. Then the trigger finger should
be withdrawn so that only the pad between the last joint and the tip of the finger touched the face of the trigger. He did not want us to shoot using the joint over the trigger, but only the pad.

For the 20+ years that I have been shooting a revolver, I have been taught that a smooth trigger face is best for double action shooting. The width of the trigger could be debated, but everybody seemed to agree that smooth was the way to go. Not so Jerry Miculek! He claimed that if anyone wanted to beat him in match, the best way to do it was to equip his revolver with a smooth faced trigger. His is serrated, just like from the factory. This prevents his finger from slipping deeper through the trigger guard and wrapping around the trigger, throwing off his shots.

Well, OK. I tried it and it does help, but the strain this technique put on the tendons of my wrist was not welcome. Fine. I can adjust to just about anything if it will help my shooting.

The third pointer from Jerry pertained to the shooting wrist. We all extended our weapons (empty) in our shooting stance as he walked down the line, tapping on the underside of the barrel to evaluate how stiff our wrists were. He found mine to be, shall we say, less than stiff. Me, a limp wrister! Ahhhhh! But this is something that directly contributes to recoil control, and omething I had to work on. I found that tightening up my grip helped with this issue, and by the end of the course Jerry commented that my wrist had tightened up considerably, leading to less muzzle rise.

We finally got down to shooting. We started with the "Bill Drill" (who is Bill, please?). I had never done this drill before, but I found it to be very useful. The drill requires a target at about 10 yards, with a piece of tape about six inches long vertically oriented in the middle of the target. On the IDPA target, this means down the middle of the c.o.m. "0" zone. The drill
consists of six shots rapidly delivered as close to that piece tape as possible, as fast as possible. This is a diagnostic drill that helps see where your shots are going. I could hit close to the tape with regularity, but with more shooting, the bullet pattern started to show that many of my hits were clustering to the right and slightly high in relation to the tape. Jerry told me that this pattern indicated that I am hitting the last portion of the trigger stroke too hard, that my double action pull isn't smooth and consistent all the way through. Something else to work on. Perhaps a smoother, lighter trigger pull would help with this. Uh, and maybe not.

We worked on other drills as well. I may not remember all of them or discuss them in sequence. IIRC, we then worked on our reloads. By this time the pavement had soaked up a lot of heat, and picking up dumped ammo was a painful experience. I had to wrap a piece of masking tape around my weak hand middle
finger to prevent it from being burned by the forcing cone during reloads. The revolvers became hotter and hotter, and we had to take breaks to allow the weapons to cool enough to be handled. Concerning reloads; Jerry stressed looking at your hands during the reload, not at the target. A muffed reload costs you time, and taking a little extra time to perform your reload consistently is worth it, according to him. Tactical shooters may argue with
the wisdom of this in a gunfight, saying that it is better to keep your head up and looking for your bad guy, seeing what he is doing. Well, OK. But Jerry isn't a tactical shooter, and his technique is to get the gun loaded as fast as possible, to cut the uselessness of that weapon to as short a time as possible.

We worked on shooting strong hand, weak hand, unsupported. One thing Jerry counseled which I will accept and put into practice during strong or weak hand shooting is to avoid locking out the shooting arm. He advocated letting the shooting elbow bend a bit, which helps soak up recoil, causing the weapon to move less from the target. If you keep your shooting arm locked and extended, when the gun goes off, the muzzle will move farther from the point of aim because the movement comes from your shoulder. Bending your elbow allows a more springlike method of recoil absorption, taking some of the strain off your wrist and moving it to your elbow, which results in less movement of the
muzzle. I found this to be true for me, and I will use this technique in the future.

----see part 2 in next message------------
 
Part 2

--continued from previous post------


The last thing we worked on was target transition, and this, at least for me, proved to be the most esoteric of all of Jerry's instruction. He stressed shot rhythm. He did not advocate speeding up the rate of fire to get a fast time.
He advocated keeping the rate of fire constant and making your transition last only as long as your split time between shots. Now I have heard this advice from other good shooters, and I know it to be good advice, but Jerry went further to tell us how revolver shooters should use this technique, as opposed
to an auto shooter.

The technique requires trigger preparation. As Jerry puts it, "keep the trigger working." The trigger should always be in motion from target to target. He equates this idea with using a fire hose. The gun is going to go off at a certain cadence. It will do this all by itself. The shooter's job is to make sure that there is a target in front of the gun, properly lined up,
before it does. Once the gun fires and the shooter has analyzed the shot, he'd better get that gun moving to find a new target because the gun is going to go off again and a target MUST be found. The trigger should be already in motion before the front sight settles on the target, and after the last shot on that
target, should not be pointed at that target again. This is a difficult and challenging concept. It made me worry about a negligent discharge, preparing the trigger before getting the gun on target. According to Jerry, upon drawing the weapon, when it reaches firing position, that weapon will go o ff as if a string were tied to the trigger connecting it to the belt. When the weapon
reaches fire position, it WILL go off! It's an automatic thing. When transitioning from target to target, the trigger should be cycling and should go off as soon as the target is acquired. Transition speed should be as fast as you can move the gun without "making your butt jiggle," as Jerry put it. He 'bout had me frying on the tarmac with that one, it cracked me up!

The course cost $170.00, and was worth the money. Mr. Miculek was quiet and calm in his demeanor, humorous, patient, and very helpful. He moved along the line of shooters giving much individual instruction. He didn't use our time by impressing us with his own ability, but was aware that we were there to learn,
not see an exhibition. He didn't spend time talking about himself unless he was asked a specific question. It was quality time and I think it will help my revolver shooting quite a lot.

One last point; Mr. Miculek is not a tactical shooter. Much of what he taught us is certainly open to question from a tactical point of view. He shoots gun games, and has never shot IDPA. His emphasis is on speed and accuracy, on technique and consistency. He is a technician. He has taken the time to break
down his own shooting techniques frame-by-frame, he has analyzed what works for him and why, and he is able to transmit that information effectively. Whether we IDPAers wish to incorporate that knowledge into our own style or sport is up
to us. Clearly much of what he had to teach does have application to IDPA style shooting, some does not. But the basics of grip, presentation, sight picture and trigger control do, at least for me. I am glad to have had the opportunity to meet this great shooter and to learn from him. If anyone else has the opportunity to take a course from this gentleman, I urge them to do so.

Andrew "FF"
Freedom Fetishist and
Plain 'Ol Citizen
 
Thanks PugetSound5,
good stuff...

I can see how locking the wrist can make a difference..
I lock my wrist and form my hands in a mold with only enough pressure so that the sights don't move while I address the trigger.

I have pretty strong hands and wrists so the grip pressure seems very relaxed for me, (I can pinch grip 100#'s and can close the Iron Mind #1 gripper 20 x's with each hand).

I have been working with different support hand techniques to aid in my overall control..
I test them by putting a dime on my front sight and dry-fire.
If the dime don't fall off then I know it works.

How does Jerry hold his LH on the pistol???

Am I on the right track???


I really need a good .22lr revolver...

Thanks for all the help people, I love my semi-auto's but the good 'ol revolver is hard to beat...
 
A couple other points about Jerry from someone who has competed head on against him. He has very strong arms and strong large hands. He gives a very serious handshake. Combine this with all of his techniques and you can understand how he shoots so fast and accurate. BTW, I finished in front of Jerry only 2 times out of maybe 50 or 60 matches we shot together. I consider this a lot of luck on my part and probably a bad day on his! I will say I was a consitent 2nd place finisher behind him quite a bit! He'a fun to watch shoot and he's a really great person.
 
Back
Top