How does SW Model 10 compare with Model 19?

T

topflan

New member
I've been shooting my Model 19-5, 6" bbl and like it very much. But because I invariably shoot .38 special, I wonder how the Model 10 would perform and handle, especially the trigger pull. Is the "feel" and smoothness pretty much like the Model 19? And how about the heft?
What would you recommend in a .38, 6" barrel? Thanks
 
Hi topflan,

I bought a GP-100 4" .357 mag last year and took it to the range with .38 specials to give it a trial run. On the bench at 25 yards, the best I could achieve was 5" to 7" groups. I was very disappointed and had almost made up my mind to trade it for something else. I decided to give it another try with .357 mag. ammo and see if it was better and low and behold, I was achieving 1" and 2" groups.

From here on out I will use a .38 special revolver for 38s and a .357 revolver for 357s.

From what I gathered, there may be different groove twist rates for magnum and non-magnum pistols.

I think that if you plan to shoot exclusively .38 special, you should use a .38 special pistol.

I am very interested in hearing some of the more experienced revolver guys chime in.
 
I have a gp 100 in .357 Mag and put alot of 38 special P+. I have loaded hard cast lead in 38 cases and shot them thrugh there. Just about any type of commercial ammo has gone through there in .38 .special. I have never seen the accuracy problem that you are talking about except with cheap reloads. You should try to get some good commercial ammo a few types in 38 special and see what has the best accuracy. I get really good accuracy with 110 sjhp from remington.
At 25 yds or less you should be able to get a 2-3 inch group with .38 special ammo. do not us the cowboy loads.
Using the 38 loads is much easier on the hand and arm and will let you shoot more often without flinch.
I do like to shoot full power .357 out of the gp100 every 4 or 5th session. I like to use Remington .357 mag 125 grain sjsp. They are good and easy on the wallet.
ePR105
 
As I recall, most of S&W's revolvers carried the same twist rate for most of their product line. Exceptions for newer models like the 460XVR and 500 Mag with "gain twist" rifling.

In a .38/.357 revolver you'll find most S&W's have their sights regulated at the factory using 158gr loads. In the .357 Mag, that's typically a JSP/JHP round while the .38 is typically the 158gr RNL or FMJ round.

Assume you're using 158gr .38 specials in a .357 mag. You'll find that your point of imact (POI) varies from point of aim (POA) more than if you use 158gr .357 Magnum ammo. This is due more to velocity than rifling twist.

With the Model 19's adjustable sights, it should be relatively easy to adjust the sights for the ammo you prefer to shoot. You can also make a notebook for the gun that describes how many clicks L/R or elevation you need from a base starting point for each brand/weight if you fire many different weights or brands.

Trigger pull varies with each specimen. You M19 may have a butter smooth trigger but the next one off the line might be different. The same applies to M10's. The good news is that the internals are all pretty much the same since they're built on the same K-Frame.

The bull-barrel (heavy barrel) M10 just slightly lighter than the M19 with the pencil barreled M10's being slightly lighter yet. A 6" barrel will provide you more accuracy and energy downrange. The older, discontinued 5" barrels were almost ideally balanced on the S&W guns. It's a shame they're no longer produced.

If target accuracy is your game, look for a lightly used Model 14 (6" K-Frame .38 "K-38 Masterpiece") in your local shops. These were beautifully made for target shooting.
 
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