How do you use your optics?

R

Rangerrich99

New member
Here's the deal: I didn't really get into scopes until fairly recently. And beyond how to zero my scopes I never got any instruction about how to use them in the field. Consequently, my rifle scopes are zeroed at 200 yards, and I never make any adjustments to them while hunting.

However, the last time I was out with a buddy of mine I noticed that between shots he was making adjustments to his elevation turret. When I asked him about it, he replied that since he knew that his target (rubber bunny target) was around 300 yards out, he adjusted his scope elevation a couple clicks to account for bullet drop (his scope was zeroed at 100 yards I believe). I had always just aimed a few inches higher, never bothering to try using the turret.

So, which method is better/generally accepted practice?
 
I normally hold over for long shots, here in Florida we don't have to shoot long distances. However i zero my bolt guns at 200yds and my AR at 75 yds to gain the maximum center hold

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With a good quality scope and target turrets and shooting at known distances, dialing in the settings for different ranges can make things easy.

For the vast majority of hunting scenarios, it's a waste of time.

It depends on what type of shooting you're doing, and the repeatability of your equipment
 
Right. Talking about prairie dog hunting. Ranges are from about 100 yards to 450+ yards. AR capable of sub MOA at 200 yards, Vortex Diamondback HP 4x16 scope. Sometimes can use rangefinder but mostly guesstimating distances along with predetermined ranges to known objects. On a good day, my guesstimates are +/- 30-40 yds. On a bad day, +/- 50+ yards.
 
If the scope is made for it, then twist away, but most scopes are not.

Leupold, among others, make scopes with Custom Dial Systems, (CDS). You buy the scope, send your load data, bullet weight, Ballistic coefficient, and the muzzle velocity you get in your rifle and they make a custom dial for it. You zero at 100 yards. At longer ranges just adjust the dial for that range. Shooting at known ranges or with an accurate range finder is key.

It is possible to do something similar, but with less precision, using a standard scope. But it requires removing the scope caps.

For hunting I prefer a scope with long range dots. Zeroed at 100 yards the dots for 200, 300, 400, etc are pretty darn close with most common cartridges. Actual shooting will show how close.

The dials are more precise and the better option for target shooting. They can be used for hunting as long as a quick shot isn't called for.

Dots

http://swfa.com/Leupold-3-9x40-VX-2-Riflescope-P51800.aspx

Or dials

http://swfa.com/Leupold-3-9x40-VX-2-Riflescope-P78916.aspx
 
Thanks guys. I think I'll leave the turret twisting to my buddy. I was kinda hoping for that result anyway, as I could imagine hundreds of ways I could mess that up.
 
I learned to use a scope back in the days when the shooter zeroed for a specific range and "held off" for elevation and wind adjustment. I can't seem to get past that although I use "trajectory compensating reticles" to make the adjusting easier.
I'm absolutely NOT a "knob twiddler".
 
I will say it all depends on the type of use or hunting the gun will be used for. Like today I just shot a pronghorn at 400 yards. I stalked in, got to my final firing position verified my range diled in 7.25 MOA and waited for him to stand up from his bed. After waiting about about 45 minutes he stood, I sent the round, saw the impact, watched him walk about 15 yards, stop, and then put one more in him to ensure the fastest and most humane kill possible.


So think about that, I have a 100 yard zero so that was 29" aboove the desired point of impact that I would have had to aim if I were not using a mil, or MOA reticule or adjusted the elevation.

Me I will certainly dial, unless I am using a Hourus Reticule.
 
anything past 400 yards I am dialing. The dots are usually not as precise as the crosshairs. For windage i can combine dial and hold to compensate for gusty wind conditions. I do shoot several times per week and stay in practice. For anyone who doesn't shoot at least monthly I don't recommend the dialing. It is too easy to forget to rezero the scope between shots and dial the scope an extra turn.

I have done that a couple times and it takes a shot or two to figure out.
 
Some scopes--generally above the medium-price range--are reliable for accuracy of adjustment.

I've always sighted in for two inches high at 100 yards, which is right at dead on for most "deer cartridges". Typically, faster than a .30-30 but less than the magnums. That goes about five or six inches low at 300, two feet at 400 and four feet low at 500. Not exact, but close enough.

So, through the years, I just set it and forget it. I've always been pretty good at range guesstimation and windage. No crippled bucks because of any real error.

I like variables. Lowest power when walking hunting for Bambi; maybe 4X when sitting. Max power at the bench or when ruining prairie dogs. For most of my hunting, field of view trumps magnification. :)
 
well, generally speaking the difference between a 200 yard zero and a 300 yard target is way more than 2 clicks unless he's got the fastest bullet in the world.

the way I was always taught was that you always sight your rifle in at 100 yards to hit 2 inches high. that way regardless of where you are at between 50 and 300, you SHOULD be within a couple inches high or low of aim without the need to compensate. any further compensation can usually be done with kentucky windage.

however when target shooting, at known ranges with stationary targets, a lot of guys do adjust their turrets to compensate for point of impact changes but that is strictly a target shooting tactic unless used by a skilled professional(think sniper)
 
I get a Leupold scope with the CDS system on it. I laser off how far away the tarted it and set the turret to that distance.

Not real hard and fairly quick... no math required!
 
I have always zeroed my cross-hairs 2.75-3.00" high at 100 yards, followed by some practice (several range trips) at 200 and 300 as well as 100 yards from a prone position, sitting position and shooting bench. If I had more time and money, I would had done that practice much more often. I have NEVER adjusted a scope while on a hunt! I did, however, borrow a guide's rifle after missing a mule deer and discovering a screw had disappeared from the variable adjustment ring on my rifle scope. I asked him how his scope was zeroed and he said to aim at the chest. I did and the deer dropped instantly (in a valley next to the Buffalo, WY airport.)
 
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