A problem with hammer drop is it could result in shooting someone,perhaps yourself. Pretty high stakes.
Scorch gave you good info. Its tough for inexperienced eyes to see the right things.
Youtube instruction is great stuff. I have learned a lot there. In its own way,a 1911 trigger job is a life and death operation.
Cylinder and Slide makes good stuff. If you did not touch the sear and hammer surfaces,odds are they are more perfect than 90% of the stoned sear surfaces and 100% of the Dremel Buffed sear surfaces.
That said,"Trust but verify" You can't assume anything. I don't know how Youtube would teach you how to check sear angles and engagement. I have a Bausch and Lomb Toolmaker Microscope with a protractor ,reticle,and X-Y stage controlled by big micrometer heads. But most folks don't have those.
You can assemble them on the outside of your frame and look with magnification. The geometry of the notch and sear should show an .018 in minimum depth a sear sngagement. But sear to hammer notch geometry can be,for lack of better term, "uphill" Neutral, or "Downhill"
"Downhill" is not good. A minimal amount of "Uphill" is generally good. It may not be the lightest, but the simple mechanics of the engagement would tend to sustain the sear engagement regardless of the sear spring tension.
Ideally,the sear spring's primary duty is to keep the parts from flopping around. It tells the sear "You belong in the hammer notch at this time"
The sear spring CAN fine tune a little more trigger pull, If the sear engages full cock in the hammer notch,it should hold full cock without the sear spring's help. If it won't,there is a problem.
A typical part of tuning a sear is a VERY LIGHT chamfer with a fine stone on the breaking corner /sharp edge of the sear. The function of this chamfer has to do with sharp edges being fragile and subject to damage. a .002 or so chamfer makes for a stronger "trigger break" edge. Its a mistake to cleverly reduce the effective sear engagement by a larger chamfer,causing the hammer notch to cam the sear out of the way early.
WOW!! All this!! Who knew!!! We just are not born with all of John Moses Browning'd genius. And a few minutes Youtube is not a substitute.
I understand,finding a skilled 1911 Smith is not easy, Every professional trade has its wealth of required knowledge. You would not ordinarily do surgery from a Youtube video,but a 1911 trigger job.well....
Actually,some surgery might be simpler.
The right thing to do? Find a good 1911 Smith.
Approach him/her with " I independently did my own trigger replacement. I recognise my inexperience. May I pay you to check my work to see if its safe. Would you correct any shortcomings? Tell him everything.
Gunsmiths may get a touch crotchety about cleaning up your mess. Generally,they would prefer you asked them if they would install your C+S kit,Then they have no rookie mistakes to undo.
But ultimately, a good 1911 smith first wants your gun to be safe and reliable.
Pay him/her for their time and your peace of mind. A "dang it!! The hammer dropped again!! on a live round can be tragic.