How do you make a m14/m1a standard shoot better

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bullfrog99

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What are the things you can do short of replacing the barrel(i prefer chrome lined anyways on a military type gun) that will aid in accuracy, i hear talk of national match gas rods and tubes and welded shut grenade launchers and backing out a flash hider set screw or something like that, what are all these things, and can a non gunsmith do them? Bedding the action i can handle, but i need more information on all the other m-14/M1a tricks of accurization. i basically would like to decrease my group size without adversly affecting reliability(too much, as i suspect they run at an inverse to each other).
 
There are a number of things that separate a standard M1A from a NM M1A.

If you're really interested in doing the work yourself, get Scott Duff's "The M14 Owners Guide". It will show you, among other things, that NO, you can't bed an M14 / M1A well unless you know what you're doing. All I'll say for now is it's absolutely NOTHING like bedding a 700.

Replacing the gas system with something a little more stable is a good idea. This little PIA can really wreak havoc on groups if it's loose or out of alignment.

Long story short: If I were to do it again, I'ld replace the repro parts, file the seer on the trigger group, get the beast bedded in a laminated stock, get some quality match sights.

For help, go to
http://www.fulton-armory.com

Sadly, these beasts are expensive to feed.

[Edited by echo3mike on 06-08-2001 at 09:06 AM]
 
Have the gas system replaced with GI parts, hand fitted so there is no play and tuned. Get a new GI bolt and have it hand fitted. Best let a smith do these. You can ream out the flashsuppressor so there is more clearence between it and the bullet (bullet hitting it is fairly common). NM sights, and a NM Trigger group always helps (you). Last and not least, bed the action into the stock.
 
Also, shim the gas system. You can buy the shims and do it yourself. Fulton Armory sells the shims for less than $10.00. While you are doing this replace your cast gas cylinder lock with a USGI gas cylinder lock. If a gas cylinder lock wrench is too small for your gas cylinder lock, the gas cylinder lock is commercial cast. If the wrench fits the gas cylinder lock you have a USGI one.

On the front side of the front sight is a set screw. Make sure the "castle nut" is not binding on the set screw. Back off on the set screw. Then screw it all the way until it bottoms out. Then back off one quarter turn. Now gently tighten the "castle nut" against the set screw to keep it from getting loose. This prevents the set screw from acting as a tuning fork on the barrel.

Go to http://www.jouster.com Look up Lanes CSP Tips in the forum choices. Click on this. Scroll down aways until you get to M14 Gunsmithing Tips. You have just discovered a treasure chest. Read it.
 
I would do these things:
1 Find out if it is me or the rifle with the malfunction in the accuracy dept on avg. the old SA M1As' w/GI parts were about 2"-2 1/2" at 100 yds. The newer ones are unknown to me but I have heard they aren't as accurate.
2 If you have one of the cheap G.I. fiberglass stocks replace it with a wooden one-usu. makes a goodly difference then shoot (assuming it is tight).
3 replace sights w/NM sights and then shoot.
4 get a good safe trigger job then shoot.
5 Replace flash hider w/ one reamed out to match specs. then shoot.
6 get one or unitize your gas system then shoot.
7 get properly glass bedded then shoot.

The AMU standard used to be if it shot 3 consecutive 10 shot groups under 4" at 300 yds you had a decent rifle. 3" or less was uncommon and less than 3" was a godsend-mind you that was before the medium or hvy bbl was allowed for DCM/CMP competition. At least according to my buddy who was/is a gunsmith there.
 
I suggest this order of priorities:

Glass Bed. If you are a skilled woodworker and you have experience with epoxy and release agent, you *may* try it on your own, meticulously following instructions. Otherwise, seek professional or experienced buddy help. This can be done even with the GI fiberglass stocks. Been there, done that, it really did help.

Castle nut tuning & flash hider ream. Suitable for D-I-Y, just use the correct tools and follow instructions.

Install the gas system shims.

Smooth the interface of the barrel band and the bottom of the stock ferrule, if not already done when it was glass bedded.

Remove the action from the stock, take out the op spring, re-assemble the bolt and op rod in the action and see how far from horizontal you have to tilt the unit to have the op rod unlock and fully retract the bolt, and tilt the other way to see how much tilt it takes to fully close the bolt by gravity. If it works with 45 degrees or less, don't bother with op rod tuning--it's already good.

Get a scope mount (the israeli may be the best combo of rigid enough without spending $100+ for a very simple device), install optics, and see if your barrel will shoot 2 MOA or less using match bullets.

If not, re-think your chrome barrel preference. If you avoid the chlorate primed stuff, the risk of rust is miniscule and the extended barrel life from chrome gives no economically justifiable benefit. 15,000 rounds of accuracy vs. 10,000? Compare the price of a $200 barrel against the price of 5,000 rounds, and you'll see that your overall total costs of operation will not change all that much, but your effectiveness and enjoyment will be MUCH greater.

The steps listed above usually bring the biggest benefits. When your rifle is shooting 1.25 MOA or less, then you might benefit from the other steps.
 
You can glass bed the GI fiberglass stock but they still are not as good as a walnut one-the problem is in the fiberglass used to make the stock. it tends to warp in heat and sunlight and in the end is not worth the problems it causes-you can get a used GI walnut one for less than $20.00. Or a match one for about $60.00 or so (If memory serves me right).
 
Change out the recoil spring guide rod - it's a square peg with a round coil with a BPS round guide and a round spring. Shim the gas system with Fulton Amory's ss shims. Bedding the stock is good too. The Scott Duff book has these and many more tips.
 
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