How do you clean your semi auto?

With CLP/Breakfree, a little Hoppe's #9 for the bore sometimes, a Bore Snake and a liberal application of Elbowgrease three days in a row after it has been fired. I picked up the 3-day habit in the Army and have found no reason to change it.
 
Sometimes one way, sometimes the other.

If I've fired less than 100 rounds and plan to shoot again within a day or so, I'll field strip the 1911 and swab out the barrel, use a dry cloth to scrape out the worst of the carbon around the ramp and the breach (breech?) face.

If I've fired more than 100 OR I don't expect to get back to the range soon, I will use Hoppe's on a tooth brush to scrub everything I can reach, plus pull the guts out of the slide and clean out the firing pin tube, the extractor tube. Then I take the parts (other than the barrel) outside and spray 'em off with brake cleaner.

After that, I lightly oil everything and put it all back together. Once a year or so I'll detail strip the whole shebang except for the mainspring. I've decided that greasing the rails would be a good idea, so I'm going to start doing that, too.

-Jorah
 
Full field strip (1911), Hoppe's for the bore, unless I've been shooting cast, in which case a bronze brush for the lead fouling, then Hoppe's for every other place there's powder residue.

Then a thin coat of gun oil on everything, especially the rails, then reassemble. Duty gun gets loaded, playtime gun gets re-stored.

Full takedown every 1,000 rounds, or semi-annually, whichever comes first.

Wintertime, I field strip it, wipe it down, re-oil, and re-assemble weekly. When the temps go into the negative numbers, I do it daily.
 
MPro 7 to clean. let is soak in for about 5 minutes. wipe till white cloth shows no dirt. Small amount of lube in specific spots with CLP.
 
I'm surprised no Glock guy has said "throw it in the diswasher."

I use a couple of different methods:

For "quick and dirty" cleaning, I use CLP and a boresnake. It fast, it cleans OK (for functional reliablity), and it leaves the weapon well-lubricated and protected from rust. I tend to use this method almost exclusively on my blued guns.

For a more thorough cleaning, nothing beats MPro7. It is quick and thorough. Its major drawback is that it removes all oil and lubricants--you are down to the bare metal when you are done. You have to a very thorough lubrication after using MPro7, and even then, I am concerned about internal parts where the MPro7 might have worked its way to. I tend to use MPro7 when I detail strip and not on my blued guns.

I am experimenting with EEzox right now. For an initial it doesn't work very well, but once I clean a weapon thoroughly (with MPor7)and lubricate it with EEzox (allowing time for EEzox to "condition" the metal, it seems to clean up nicely with just EEzox. From all I have read, EEzox provides far superior lubrication and protection than any other product available (except maybe Militec--I am not real familiar with it).
 
Can I mail you my new bottle of mPro-7? What a joke. Is it good for windows or sinks or anything so it won't be a complete waste?

Many 1911 competitors use NOTHING except BreakFree. The guy who did the rust testing found it to be the 2nd best at rust prevent and far above 3rd place. If some extra mPro creeps somewhere, you might CAUSE rust. Extra BreakFree prevents & lubricates.

I clean all with BreakFree. Brush the bore with Butch's Bore Shine (Strong version of Hoppes), then leave bore a little wet with BreakFree. Still working on finding the best grease for the rails and lug contact points, but now using Tetra.

I disassemble and clean after every trip to the range. If you don't have time (lazy) spray it out with BreakFree and shake out the excess. Takes under a minute and will prevent rust and start softening the crud.
 
Clean barrel with Hoppes, patches and usual stuff... Then, a few times a year, when opportunity presents itself, just use compressed air, which blows away whatever is stuck in tight spots.
 
But you Glock guys remember, keep it on the top shelf of the dishwasher. You don't want it coming out all distorted!
 
You've got to clean them?

I didn't know you had to clean a Glock. :eek: I thought they were like self cleaning ovens. :D

CLP for frame and slide, Hoppe's for the bore.
 
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