How do you clean your revolver?
- Thread starter Hal
- Start date
don't shoot it's me
New member
I brush through the barrel and cylinder...then some clp on patches...a little toothbrush where the barrel and frame meet..and then rub the cylinder face with some oily patches to get the black off (if it is ss, you can use wipe away lead cloth..but no good on blue, takes it off)...one thing I recommend, make sure you run dry patches through the cylinder....oil in there can cause a hydraulic effect and make extraction a bitch....
notbubba, I'm hear you...... it is a pain.
Just yesterday, I spent about two hours at the range. When I got home, I had two revolvers and a Sig P226 to clean. I disassembled the revolvers and put then in an old butter tub. Sprayed the cylinders and barrels real good with CLP and let them soak while I cleaned my Sig. Since it only takes a few minutes to clean the Sig, I let the revolver parts continue to soak while I read the paper. If I've been shooting lead bullets, I usually run a Lead Remover (like the old Lewis rig) through the barrel and the forcing cone. I then use brass brushes inside the cylinders and barrels, followed by patches saturated with CLP until they came out clean. I also use the Lead Away cloths on the cylinder face and on any heavily sooted areas (my revolvers are SS). Not counting soak time, I probably spend at least 30 minutes on each revolver. What a pain..........but I guess it's a labor of love.
Just yesterday, I spent about two hours at the range. When I got home, I had two revolvers and a Sig P226 to clean. I disassembled the revolvers and put then in an old butter tub. Sprayed the cylinders and barrels real good with CLP and let them soak while I cleaned my Sig. Since it only takes a few minutes to clean the Sig, I let the revolver parts continue to soak while I read the paper. If I've been shooting lead bullets, I usually run a Lead Remover (like the old Lewis rig) through the barrel and the forcing cone. I then use brass brushes inside the cylinders and barrels, followed by patches saturated with CLP until they came out clean. I also use the Lead Away cloths on the cylinder face and on any heavily sooted areas (my revolvers are SS). Not counting soak time, I probably spend at least 30 minutes on each revolver. What a pain..........but I guess it's a labor of love.
Finally went out and bought a BoreSnake, and man, why did I wait so long?!?!?!
During shooting, I pull it though, dry, every 50 rounds or so, which helps keep it from getting too dirty.
Then, at home, I put some #9 on the boresnake and run it through a couple times.
Run a rod through each chamber and use a toothbrush under the extractor star and under topstrap.
Then I use an old t-shirt to clean up the exterior.
This gets the gun "clean" as we say in the medical field.
Different than "sterile".
Some guns I want to look as though they're unfired (except for the &^$%#@& drag line).
To get to that "sterility" takes a lot longer, and is a total pain.
But, some guns I'm happy if they're just clean, not perfect.
$.02, -Kframe
During shooting, I pull it though, dry, every 50 rounds or so, which helps keep it from getting too dirty.
Then, at home, I put some #9 on the boresnake and run it through a couple times.
Run a rod through each chamber and use a toothbrush under the extractor star and under topstrap.
Then I use an old t-shirt to clean up the exterior.
This gets the gun "clean" as we say in the medical field.
Different than "sterile".
Some guns I want to look as though they're unfired (except for the &^$%#@& drag line).
To get to that "sterility" takes a lot longer, and is a total pain.
But, some guns I'm happy if they're just clean, not perfect.
$.02, -Kframe
It's complicated
MPro7 on the muzzle and inside the frame to get the carbon off. Same stuff on a toothbrush to clean the star and ejector.
Then I remove crane and cylinder. Shooter's choice on a bronze brush to clean the cylinder, same for the barrel. Then a couple of patches with Mpro7 in the barrel and chambers (this neutralizes the solvent and gets any remaining carbon out). Lead Away to get the cylinder face bright. Then a patch with RemOil or Militech to coat the bore and chambers.
You can do the last step with an oiled bore snake, but if its dirty, you're just putting gunk back inside.
I've never been able to get all the carbon off the cylinder face without the lead-away cloth. Boresnake won't get lead build up out of chambers... you have to use a tight-fitting bronze brush.
Yo
MPro7 on the muzzle and inside the frame to get the carbon off. Same stuff on a toothbrush to clean the star and ejector.
Then I remove crane and cylinder. Shooter's choice on a bronze brush to clean the cylinder, same for the barrel. Then a couple of patches with Mpro7 in the barrel and chambers (this neutralizes the solvent and gets any remaining carbon out). Lead Away to get the cylinder face bright. Then a patch with RemOil or Militech to coat the bore and chambers.
You can do the last step with an oiled bore snake, but if its dirty, you're just putting gunk back inside.
I've never been able to get all the carbon off the cylinder face without the lead-away cloth. Boresnake won't get lead build up out of chambers... you have to use a tight-fitting bronze brush.
Yo
?Nobody believes me but I figured out an EASY way to clean a revolver! My revolvers are as clean as new every time I clean them (I swear). Here's how:
1) Take off the cylinder.
2) Get some automotive chrome polish (from Kragens or Pep Boys) and a Q-tip and a toothrush. Use the Q-tip to put the polish on the frame and forcing cone area to get the black off. Scrub with the nylon brush and the black will come off.
3) BARREL: pass a swab through with normal solvent then: use a nylon bore brush/rod, dip the tip of the brush in chrome polish, and push in from the muzzle end. Scrub for about 15 seconds. Also, use the brush alone and insert into the forcing cone and scrub there (most of the fouling will be in this area). Pass swabs through until clean and your barrel will sparkle.
4) Cylinder: clean the burned black off the outside end with chrome polish and a Q-tip/nylon brush. Pass a swab with solvent through the bores to get out the major crud. Then: use a short rod and nylon bore brush in a low-speed drill. Dip the tip of the brush in chrome polish and insert and start scrubbing. Concentrate on the "burn ring" where the brass and slug meet. In about 20 - 30 seconds, the tube will be clean. Repeat until all are clean.
5) Pass swabs through until dry and spray down the cylinder with solvent spray (brake cleaner works great). Use the brush to clean the inside of the ejector rod and star surfaces.
1) Take off the cylinder.
2) Get some automotive chrome polish (from Kragens or Pep Boys) and a Q-tip and a toothrush. Use the Q-tip to put the polish on the frame and forcing cone area to get the black off. Scrub with the nylon brush and the black will come off.
3) BARREL: pass a swab through with normal solvent then: use a nylon bore brush/rod, dip the tip of the brush in chrome polish, and push in from the muzzle end. Scrub for about 15 seconds. Also, use the brush alone and insert into the forcing cone and scrub there (most of the fouling will be in this area). Pass swabs through until clean and your barrel will sparkle.
4) Cylinder: clean the burned black off the outside end with chrome polish and a Q-tip/nylon brush. Pass a swab with solvent through the bores to get out the major crud. Then: use a short rod and nylon bore brush in a low-speed drill. Dip the tip of the brush in chrome polish and insert and start scrubbing. Concentrate on the "burn ring" where the brass and slug meet. In about 20 - 30 seconds, the tube will be clean. Repeat until all are clean.
5) Pass swabs through until dry and spray down the cylinder with solvent spray (brake cleaner works great). Use the brush to clean the inside of the ejector rod and star surfaces.
Kentucky Rifle
New member
Pretty much the same as has already been mentioned...
..except for one little thing. This inexpensive Birchwood-Casey cloth is something I like more every time I use it. That black residue on the front of the barrel and cylinder holes comes right off with a wipe or two. This was a CHEAP thing. (Under $5.00!) REALLY works well. I'm impressed.
I don't know what's in it, but the directions say it's flammable.
KR
..except for one little thing. This inexpensive Birchwood-Casey cloth is something I like more every time I use it. That black residue on the front of the barrel and cylinder holes comes right off with a wipe or two. This was a CHEAP thing. (Under $5.00!) REALLY works well. I'm impressed.
I don't know what's in it, but the directions say it's flammable.KR
Be careful!
Brake Cleaner--
Very, very toxic stuff. Make sure you use in a well-ventilated area. MPro-7 is non-toxic and does a good job. Simple green will also remove most carbon (but you need something stronger if you shoot lead.
Chrome polish in a barrel--
Can wear down the rifling pretty fast. Stainless is fairly soft. Use this technique too often, you can also wear out the throat prematurely.
Nylon brush in an electric drill--
No doubt it nails the burn ring pretty quickly. But same observation. If you did this often you could wear away the metal in the chamber.
Personally, I've found the lead-away cloths much more effective than chrome polish on the Cylinder face. You can also cut small pieces off and use them as patches to clean the chambers.
Brake Cleaner--
Very, very toxic stuff. Make sure you use in a well-ventilated area. MPro-7 is non-toxic and does a good job. Simple green will also remove most carbon (but you need something stronger if you shoot lead.
Chrome polish in a barrel--
Can wear down the rifling pretty fast. Stainless is fairly soft. Use this technique too often, you can also wear out the throat prematurely.
Nylon brush in an electric drill--
No doubt it nails the burn ring pretty quickly. But same observation. If you did this often you could wear away the metal in the chamber.
Personally, I've found the lead-away cloths much more effective than chrome polish on the Cylinder face. You can also cut small pieces off and use them as patches to clean the chambers.