How do remove the barrel from my Ruger Mk II

R

Riss

New member
Trying to remove the barrel from my Mk II. I know its threaded in there but it looks awkward to put the tapered barrel into a busing in an aaction wrench. Any tips, hints or no-nos out there ?
 
Riss, not knowing what type of barrel vise you have you can make a bushing to match the barrel either by boring one out on the lathe and then splitting it or use Brownells barrel bushing mold blocks and Steel Bed. George
 
Yes, A Ruger Mk II pistol. Was looking for an easy method. Guess I'll have my man at the shop make me up a new barrell block for the tapered barrel. See above post. Can't get the bolt lock thingy back together. Need help.
 
OK, well how about the feed ramp. That must be knocked loose before the barrel s turned out. How do I do that. Which was is loose ?
 
There REALLY is no reason to remove the barrel from the bolt housing, unless you are replacing a damaged one...
 
Can't get the bolt lock thingy back together.


Riss, your profile says you're a gunsmith. I gotta ask; your kidding, right?
 
An amateur one, AND having never worked on a MkII AND not having a manual ,it is all a learning process. All of the other guns I work on I can assemble from a bag of parts in the dark. This will be the next one to be put on that list.
 
Ruger

If asked, Ruger will tell you that the receiver and barrel are an integral part (see your parts diagram) not intended to be separated once assembled. I believe that is why installation of the Clark barrels requires "lathe work," and I bet you don't get you old barrel back.

Regards.
 
Hi, Riss,

Do you want to remove the barrel, or do you only want to remove the barrel-receiver part from the frame? You should be able to work on any part of that gun without removing the barrel from the receiver (the round part that has the ejection port in it).

If you just want to remove the barrel-receiver from the frame, remove the bolt and magazine, then whack the muzzle with a block of wood and the receiver will pop right out of the frame.

Jim
 
Well removing the barrel was the first ides. Easier to work on the barrel in a lathe with it OUT of the receiver. I can (safely ?) assume then that the barrel (did not go to the link yet) is pressed and not screwed into the receiver.
 
Well that Clark pic sure looks threaded to me. Like I said , all I wanted to do is remove it to work on it, recrown, rechamber, etc. Can do the work while all is assembled but is more work.
 
A gun rag article years ago described replacing a MkII barrel with one machined to accept a suppressor. Said the original is threaded, turned in to a compression fit. Said furthur to expect to ruin the old barrel in removing it.
 
Huck Phinn got it right, the simple answer to your question is-- you don't remove the Mk II barrel...

The barrels are threaded and 'crush fitted' to the receiver- essentially permanent to the amateur gunsmith...

You'd have to chuck the assembly in a lathe and begin machining away the barrel area nearest to the receiver without touching it and then use you best barrel wrench...

Best left to the professional Ruger pistolsmith (like Clark, Volquartson, Power). The risk is a buggered gun at least...
 
The barrel of a Ruger .22 auto can be removed the same way as a rifle barrel. They are screwed in and tight, but I never had to relieve one to get it off. But I still can't see any reason for removing the barrel except to replace it. There is no repair to the Ruger that requires barrel removal and no advantage in removing it to work on the rest of the gun. Even cutting the barrel, recrowning or replacing the sight can be done more easily with the receiver-barrel unit than with the barrel alone.

Ruger basically intended the barrel and receiver to be a permanent assembly, and all their books show it as such. If a new or different barrel is wanted and is made by Ruger, I would send the gun to the factory.

Jim
 
I remember reading an article in the NRA gunsmithing manual where they were accurizing a ruger. Barrel was removed off this one by cutting the old barrel off and boring out the stub until the threads could be collapsed. Seems extreme but I guess that would be one way of doing it if you had no use for the original barrel in the first place. Of course at the time this article was written there wasn't near as many options for the MK series in the ruger line. I shot competition for years with a MK II and the accuracy from a standard factory barrel far surpassed my talents as a marksman, seems to me a replacement trigger, target grips, and perhaps different sights are all that should need to be done to a stock MK II to make it a viable competition gun and none of these things as Jim says requires the barrel to be removed.
 
Are barrel/upper receiver assemblies available from Ruger or any other vendors? Changing those out would make for a handy pistol that could handle double duty for kit use, or target work, not to mention having a suppressed barrel assembly. Would they need fitting for headspace purposes, or is that set automatically by the tolerances built into the frame?
 
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