How do I tell if the P99 is German made?
- Thread starter swamprat6
- Start date
glock glockler
New member
If it's not made in Germany, where else would it be made?
All 9mm P99's are German made. There were about 3000 .40 P99's that had the slide and barrel made by S&W, because Germany was having a hard time keeping up with production.
To tell if it is German made, look for the eagle over the N proof mark. If it is there it is German. If not, it's not.
P99
To tell if it is German made, look for the eagle over the N proof mark. If it is there it is German. If not, it's not.
P99
To: P99
P99,
Thank you for all your help and advice. You are making this alot easier for me.
This is a pretty large step for me, I want to make sure my hard earned coin is going for the right thing.
The P99 is a different direction for me. I have been(and am still) a 1911 guy. But the P99 seems to be the way I want to go so my wife I and can enjoy the benefits of deploying the same pistol.
Again, thank you.
swamprat6
P99,
Thank you for all your help and advice. You are making this alot easier for me.
This is a pretty large step for me, I want to make sure my hard earned coin is going for the right thing.
The P99 is a different direction for me. I have been(and am still) a 1911 guy. But the P99 seems to be the way I want to go so my wife I and can enjoy the benefits of deploying the same pistol.
Again, thank you.
swamprat6
Look for proof marks. HK and Walther use the same proof house in Ulm. My USP9, for example, has proof marks on the barrel, the slide, and the frame. If the P99 is all German, it should have proof marks on the barrel, the slide, and the frame, too.
Swamprat, ditto the other info here. In the 9mm version, you're ok. Although the 9mm isn't an issue, you can recognize the proof marks which are in the form of an 'N' in a crest, in three locations:
At the top back right of the slide
At the top back right of the barrel
At the top front right side of the frame, forward of the trigger guard.
BTW, good choice!
HTH.
At the top back right of the slide
At the top back right of the barrel
At the top front right side of the frame, forward of the trigger guard.
BTW, good choice!
HTH.
David Berkowitz
New member
P99,
I do have a question.
I know the 9mm version of the P99 is excellent, but I hear various reports on 40 S&W version. Some report jamming problems, especially on the early versions and that accuracy is only mediocre.
Then others will say it is excellent.
How in the world does one find out? "Excellent combat accuracy" really doesn't say much nor does "if yyou do your part, the gun will outshoot the shooter."
Absolutely no range in my area will rent them. Don't know why. I hope it is price, not longevity.
What kind of real world performance can be exxpected in the 40 S&W? Can I expect reliability and accuracy equal to or better than my Sig 229?
(I guess I should be happy with the 229, butcha know, the P99 just looks so dam_ed good.)
I do have a question.
I know the 9mm version of the P99 is excellent, but I hear various reports on 40 S&W version. Some report jamming problems, especially on the early versions and that accuracy is only mediocre.
Then others will say it is excellent.
How in the world does one find out? "Excellent combat accuracy" really doesn't say much nor does "if yyou do your part, the gun will outshoot the shooter."
Absolutely no range in my area will rent them. Don't know why. I hope it is price, not longevity.
What kind of real world performance can be exxpected in the 40 S&W? Can I expect reliability and accuracy equal to or better than my Sig 229?
(I guess I should be happy with the 229, butcha know, the P99 just looks so dam_ed good.)
David,
I'm not sure how to answer your question, except to say go shoot one to compare for yourself.
I can say that I've got one of the first P99 .40's to be imported and have steadily bought a new P99 over the past couple of years and have seen improvements. My latest P99's are more accurate than the older ones. One change that I think effected this was Walther changed the crown of the barrel from rounded to squared.
Compared to your Sig 229, I will venture to say my P99 will be just as good if not better in accuracy. My Uncle has a Sig 229. I have shot it and really liked it. I never put anything on paper, because we were just plinking at can, bottles, etc. But I did just as well with it as I did with my P99. I can consistently do sub 3" groups with the P99 at 25 meters with 5 shots. I have had one occasion where I got a 1" group. But that's not the norm with me.
My first P99 had a problem with the slide locking back. It went away after 100 rounds. However, others who have experienced this problem had to have the slide lock spring replaced. This apparently solved the problem. I've never had any FTF's or failure to eject problems.
So, "How does on find out?" The best answer is to go and shoot it for yourself. If you can't do that, I guess the next best thing is to listen to others and read up on it.
Hope this helps.
P99
I'm not sure how to answer your question, except to say go shoot one to compare for yourself.
I can say that I've got one of the first P99 .40's to be imported and have steadily bought a new P99 over the past couple of years and have seen improvements. My latest P99's are more accurate than the older ones. One change that I think effected this was Walther changed the crown of the barrel from rounded to squared.
Compared to your Sig 229, I will venture to say my P99 will be just as good if not better in accuracy. My Uncle has a Sig 229. I have shot it and really liked it. I never put anything on paper, because we were just plinking at can, bottles, etc. But I did just as well with it as I did with my P99. I can consistently do sub 3" groups with the P99 at 25 meters with 5 shots. I have had one occasion where I got a 1" group. But that's not the norm with me.
My first P99 had a problem with the slide locking back. It went away after 100 rounds. However, others who have experienced this problem had to have the slide lock spring replaced. This apparently solved the problem. I've never had any FTF's or failure to eject problems.
So, "How does on find out?" The best answer is to go and shoot it for yourself. If you can't do that, I guess the next best thing is to listen to others and read up on it.
Hope this helps.
P99
Crookshanks
New member
Maybe a stupid question.
Rovert gave the locations for the proofmarks on a P99 in 9mm. Does anyone know if they're in the same places on a P99 in 40S&W?
Rovert gave the locations for the proofmarks on a P99 in 9mm. Does anyone know if they're in the same places on a P99 in 40S&W?
David Berkowitz
New member
P99
Thanks for your reply.
3" groups @ 25 yds is just fine for me. I can barely see that far. Most of my shooting these days is 50 feet, and some days that's a stretch.
No range around here rents one.
I think another good barometer my be the number of people who praise rather then pan. Bad news travels quickly, and I hear much more positive than negative.
thanks again.
Thanks for your reply.
3" groups @ 25 yds is just fine for me. I can barely see that far. Most of my shooting these days is 50 feet, and some days that's a stretch.
No range around here rents one.
I think another good barometer my be the number of people who praise rather then pan. Bad news travels quickly, and I hear much more positive than negative.
thanks again.