How do I get the bolt assembly out of the receiver on my M1A?
- Thread starter Adam
- Start date
Assuming that take-down on the M1A, commercial M-14 is the same as it was for The Garand (M-1), try the following.
1. remove trigger group. the trigger guard locks same to the rifle, and pivots, hinge is at forward end.
2. remove barreled action from stock. with a "lug gun", is that what you have??, rewmember the guard screw(s).
3. dismount operating rod from rifle.
4. at that point, you can move the bolt with your fingers, and it comes out quite easily.
Hope my memory serves, and that the foregoing helps. BTW, check to see that rifle is unloaded. Surprising, what people sometimes forget.
1. remove trigger group. the trigger guard locks same to the rifle, and pivots, hinge is at forward end.
2. remove barreled action from stock. with a "lug gun", is that what you have??, rewmember the guard screw(s).
3. dismount operating rod from rifle.
4. at that point, you can move the bolt with your fingers, and it comes out quite easily.
Hope my memory serves, and that the foregoing helps. BTW, check to see that rifle is unloaded. Surprising, what people sometimes forget.
When you say dismount operating rod, do you mean to take it out completely or just take out the spring? I think I follow what you are saying, and I have tried all that. But the bolt just doesn't come out. Does it lift up and out or down and out? Thank you. (By the way I have an M1A loaded rifle; maybe there is something different about it???)
You can remove the bolt without taking apart rifle by retracting the bolt handle to exactly the right spot, pulling the bolt handle out of its track, thereby releasing the bolt lug out of the operating handle, then removing the loose bolt. Takes a little practice. An ole GI can show you. HTH 
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Be mentally deliberate but muscularly fast. Aim for just above the belt buckle Wyatt Earp
"It is error alone that needs government support; truth can stand by itself." Tom Jefferson
If you have to shoot a man, shoot him in the guts, it may not kill him... sometimes they die slow, but it'll paralyze his brain and arm and the fight is all but over Wild Bill Hickok
Remember: When you attempt to rationalize two inconsistent positions, you risk drowning as your own sewage backs up.
45 ACP: Give 'em a new navel! BigG
------------------
Be mentally deliberate but muscularly fast. Aim for just above the belt buckle Wyatt Earp
"It is error alone that needs government support; truth can stand by itself." Tom Jefferson
If you have to shoot a man, shoot him in the guts, it may not kill him... sometimes they die slow, but it'll paralyze his brain and arm and the fight is all but over Wild Bill Hickok
Remember: When you attempt to rationalize two inconsistent positions, you risk drowning as your own sewage backs up.
45 ACP: Give 'em a new navel! BigG
Hi, Adam,
Does the op rod come out OK? Some of the M14 clones seem to have dismount notches that are too small and don't allow the op rod to come away normally.
With the op rod spring and guide removed, pull the op rod back until the lug at the rear matches with the dismount notch in the op rod raceway, then lift the op rod up and pull out. Twist it clockwise until it can be pulled out of the guide and off the receiver. Then grasp the right bolt lug, pull the bolt back, while tipping the back end down and turning the bolt counterclockwise. It should come out.
Bolt removal on both the carbine and the M1/M1A can be done without removing the op rod, but it is a little tricky.
Jim
Does the op rod come out OK? Some of the M14 clones seem to have dismount notches that are too small and don't allow the op rod to come away normally.
With the op rod spring and guide removed, pull the op rod back until the lug at the rear matches with the dismount notch in the op rod raceway, then lift the op rod up and pull out. Twist it clockwise until it can be pulled out of the guide and off the receiver. Then grasp the right bolt lug, pull the bolt back, while tipping the back end down and turning the bolt counterclockwise. It should come out.
Bolt removal on both the carbine and the M1/M1A can be done without removing the op rod, but it is a little tricky.
Jim
Adam,
I am experiencing the same problem.
What I found is this:
-Take out the operating rod and spring.
-Slide the charging handle/bolt back almost all the way to the rear where the takedown notch is hiding.
-Twist the handle up and towards you as you encounter the notch and presto!....it doesn't come out. No matter what I've tried...no dice.
I called Springfield and talked to a Tech (female of course, just to add to my torture). She said the loaded guns are more difficult to take down than a standard...but not impossible. "I can't do it either" she says. Oh goody....
I took a friends older M1A down in seconds. Handle easily found the slot, out she came slicker'n a bean. I don't know what gives, other than the fact that after it was originally assembled someone took a tool like a punch and hammer and closed the notch up just enough so the handle won't come out without force. Since I refuse to force it out, my rifle remains unmolested.
I think it's pretty standard practise on match grade rifles not to take them all the way down anyway, especially is bedded. Mines not bedded of course, but leaving it together hasn't hurt anything thus far. Let us know if you crack it....and good luck!
Regards,
SM
I am experiencing the same problem.
What I found is this:
-Take out the operating rod and spring.
-Slide the charging handle/bolt back almost all the way to the rear where the takedown notch is hiding.
-Twist the handle up and towards you as you encounter the notch and presto!....it doesn't come out. No matter what I've tried...no dice.
I called Springfield and talked to a Tech (female of course, just to add to my torture). She said the loaded guns are more difficult to take down than a standard...but not impossible. "I can't do it either" she says. Oh goody....
I took a friends older M1A down in seconds. Handle easily found the slot, out she came slicker'n a bean. I don't know what gives, other than the fact that after it was originally assembled someone took a tool like a punch and hammer and closed the notch up just enough so the handle won't come out without force. Since I refuse to force it out, my rifle remains unmolested.
I think it's pretty standard practise on match grade rifles not to take them all the way down anyway, especially is bedded. Mines not bedded of course, but leaving it together hasn't hurt anything thus far. Let us know if you crack it....and good luck!
Regards,
SM
Ditto here, I have a loaded one and for the life of me I can not find the notch to get the op rod out, sheesh. The one thing that did piss me off is the gun did not come with instructions on take down, SA said that is extra and I would have to order the manuel, so I ordered a one from SA and dang if they did not send me a copy of the original GI field manuel, boy did they screw me on that one. I would really like to get the bolt out and clean it, might be time to see the gunsmith.okay..i just bought a loaded and mine came out...and went back together...i'd like to learn the trick of bolt removal without gun disassembly..s for breakdown..with my loaded i got the army manual and a laminated pamphlet called "Springfield m1a rifle information guide care/adjustment/disassembly/assembly of your m1a" ...it explained takedown quite well..the army guide was good for nomenclature tho
Bolt removal without disassembly (M1, M1A, M1 Carbine):
Pull op rod back until it reaches the disassembly notch. Grasping handle, spring the op rod out and up away from the right bolt lug. Holding the op rod out, allow it to go forward around the bolt lug.
With op rod forward, grasp the right bolt lug, lift the bolt up, twisting it counter clockwise. It will come up and out to the front. (It takes a little practice.)
To reassemble, insert bolt in rifle back end first, twist to right and put back in normal position. Pull bolt to the rear almost all the way. Pull op rod back, spring it out and latch it over the right bolt lug. Pull the op rod to the take down position and push into place.
Jim
Pull op rod back until it reaches the disassembly notch. Grasping handle, spring the op rod out and up away from the right bolt lug. Holding the op rod out, allow it to go forward around the bolt lug.
With op rod forward, grasp the right bolt lug, lift the bolt up, twisting it counter clockwise. It will come up and out to the front. (It takes a little practice.)
To reassemble, insert bolt in rifle back end first, twist to right and put back in normal position. Pull bolt to the rear almost all the way. Pull op rod back, spring it out and latch it over the right bolt lug. Pull the op rod to the take down position and push into place.
Jim
WalterGAII
Moderator
All this M-1A tedium kind of makes that flimsy AR look pretty good, about now.
Thanks for all the replies. My M1A is a Springfield Loaded rifle. I still can't get the operating rod out. I think I'll go get my dad's standard M1A and see if I can get it apart. My sole reason for wanting to get out the bolt assembly is for cleaning. Up to now, I have been taking a brush to the bolt face while leaving the bolt in the receiver. I just wish I could get it out. Maybe it's not necessary...
You are not alone . . .
I just got a basic version of the M1A and I can't get the bolt out either. The manual they sent me is nearly 40 years old, and looks like it's been copied too many times - very poor pictures.
I was in the Marines in the mid-eighties, and stationed at Marined Barracks 8th & I. We broke down M1s, but something is very different about these new M1As. I love mine, but I'm mad that Springfield doesn't do a better job of telling us how to do this.
Tom
I just got a basic version of the M1A and I can't get the bolt out either. The manual they sent me is nearly 40 years old, and looks like it's been copied too many times - very poor pictures.
I was in the Marines in the mid-eighties, and stationed at Marined Barracks 8th & I. We broke down M1s, but something is very different about these new M1As. I love mine, but I'm mad that Springfield doesn't do a better job of telling us how to do this.
Tom