How do I fix this?

B

black_hog_down

New member
I smashed these 300 RCM down during crimping. I got through 20 without noticing.

How do I fix this?

I don't want to chuck the brass cause they're $1 each.

Obviously I need to pull the bullet and dump the powder.

But can I resize them? Are they gonna get stuck in the die?

dee21b19da17fc2952c05561229f90d4.jpg
 
The bulge below the shoulder is from over crimping, causing the shoulder to collapse. Pull the bullets, resize, back off on the crimp and you will be fine. Sometimes the bulge will be excessive and the rounds will not chamber. Just lube the cases as usual but not necessarily around the shoulder to avoid lube dents. The bulges and shoulders will iron out properly. Note that the case is not supported inside the die at the point where the bulge occurs due to over crimping. Otherwise the round looks great. Do not discard the cases. If any of the rounds chambered and fired, they probably returned to normal but resize anyway of course.
 
Last edited:
When you say "dump the powder", do you mean dump it out or dump it back into the powder hopper? Just wondering.

I had to re-read your post before I could make a guess about what the problem to be fixed is. The clue was "smashed during crimping". You see, I don't have an image of a proper 300 RCM cartridge.

So, here is my best guess at advice:

Do they chamber?
Do they headspace? (On the shoulder or on the extractor)

If the answer is "yes" for both questions, firing them as-is would fire-form the brass to chamber specifications. The danger is of stretching the body of the brass, thereby thinning the case walls, however, would make me think. $20? vs having 20 cases I worry about.

People more expert than I am with bottlenecked cases may give better answers, but peace of mind is worth $20, as much as the skinflint in me cries out in protest. I would pull the components (powder, bullets and even primers), crush and sell the brass for scrap and re-use the rest.

$20 tuition in the school of experience. Lot cheaper than that same tuition in the school of hard knocks.

Lost Sheep
 
If you look closely, the case is bulged out at the base of the shoulder. The got smashed down too far during crimping.
They don't chamber. I could maybe ram them home but that doesn't seem like a smart idea.
And by dump, I mean back into the hopper to be reloaded.
 
Last edited:
And you would never resize a fully loaded cartridge right?
I doubt I would try it even if you said people do it.
I also doubt it would detonate but if it did...
 
I agree with Lost Sheep, losing 20 bucks is cheap compared to possible case failure down the line. Salvage the components and scrap the cases.
 
I think I have heard that some do that (resize the loaded rounds) but don't. Just pull the bullets and start over. I've had over crimping with ultra mag calibers and no problem with resizing and reusing the cases.
 
Last edited:
why are you crimping the bullet in the first place? just because a bullet has a cannelure doesn't you have to use it
 
Don't overthink it. Pull the bullets, put the powder back in the can, pull the decapping pin out of the rod, lube and resize. Reload. Don't crimp, but if you insist, work up to it in stages.

Cartridge brass is more than tough enough to take this amount of working. After you fire it, the brass will forget what you did to it.
 
Yes, I have fired many rounds that had pressure dents from a clogged air hole. Some pretty heavy. It just reforms the brass. If it fits in the chamber, I would fire them. Or, go with Greg Mercurio's post. If you have to crimp, try Lee collet dies. They will stop that from happening. I used RCBS when I started and the brass has to be about perfect in length to avoid crimping problems.
 
How do I fix this?
Click to expand...

If you had a bushing die you could remove the bushing and then size the shoulder and case body just enough to remove the bulge, and then there is one of those ‘and then’ moments. I have know of reloaders that size the case when they closed the bolt. And then, there are reloaders that shorten the case between the shoulder and the case head .005” with the firing pin.

F. Guffey
 
You could pull the bullets, dump the powder and run a fire forming charge to blow the case back out to the chamber dimensions, assuming you can get them to chamber.
 
Thanks guys.
Gonna order a 30 cal bullet puller.
Pull and recycle the powder.
Full length resize.
Try again.
Unfortunately I don't think they make a crimp only die for 300 RCM. As noted, probably doesn't need crimp anyway.
 
The only rifle rounds I crimp are for tube magazines in lever action rifles. I have not had a case where crimping the rounds was of any benefit to accuracy at all. I had the same problem with some .221 Rem Fireball cases. If you try to resize those I would advise be ready for a stuck case, or for a badly collapsed shoulder. 3 to 1 losss rate is what I would guess for at best.
 
Rather than a specific .30 caliber collet type puller, you would probably be better served with the more general inertia type to accommodate most all cartridges and bullet diameters. To seat to the cannelure, consider just a lighter taper crimp rather than the roll crimp. Back off on the crimp adjustment enough for the lighter taper crimp.
 
Last edited:
Don't overthink it. Pull the bullets, put the powder back in the can, pull the decapping pin out of the rod, lube and resize. Reload. Don't crimp, but if you insist, work up to it in stages.

Cartridge brass is more than tough enough to take this amount of working. After you fire it, the brass will forget what you did to it.
Click to expand...

Absolutely! And if you do insist on crimping a rifle caliber, it should be so tiny that you should barely feel it, but its rarely necessary.

Rather than a specific .30 caliber collet type puller, you would probably be better served with the more general inertia type to accommodate most all cartridges and bullet diameters.
Click to expand...


In other words, get the $15 plastic "hammer". Works on anything, and rifle bullets are easiest to pull with them.

I've resized an occasional boo-boo live before, but the one pictured is pretty bad, and I'd pull first.
 
You could pull the bullets, dump the powder and run a fire forming charge to blow the case back out to the chamber dimensions, assuming you can get them to chamber.
Click to expand...

Why fire form the case, if he is going to pull the bullets and dump the powder all he has to do is remove the decapping pin and start sizing.

F. Guffey
 
When adjusting the seating die to crimp adjust the die to crimp first and remember the amount of effort to crimp when compared to sizing is just a hint of effort.

After adjusting the die to crimp adjust the seater plug to seat the bullet. The most confusing thing for a reloader when seating and crimping requires the die to be adjusted to seat first. I know, it is nothing like walking and chewing gum at the same time. I use a transfer I transfer the dimensions of the chamber to the seating die; I do that because I am the fan of knowing how far the bullet is off the lands. AND! Using that method and or technique prevents me from having to start over and over everyday.

F. Guffey
 
Why fire form the case, if he is going to pull the bullets and dump the powder all he has to do is remove the decapping pin and start sizing.
Click to expand...

I just always liked brass fitting the chamber. The ring he has made so far at the transition is already visually noticeable now, who knows where everything else will be once the die moves things around so it will chamber.

I will admit to shooting cases with dimples in them from time to time over the years but unless the OP has a slotted case gauge he won't really know where he is at.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top