How common are cracks on a 1911 slide

The 45 Dude

New member
I'm a huge sentimental value guy so if I have to replace stuff like receivers, frames, or slides it usually breaks my heart cause that part is like the heart of the gun. I hear that although cracked slides are uncommon they do happen. On the other hand, I also hear that people go through at least 100,000 or more rounds in their 1911s that still shoot fine. Also to add to my complicated question do shock buffers or recoil reducers help with the lifespan?

I'm building a 1911 so the slide I'm getting is made of 4340 steel and is very high quality if that makes answering the question easier.
 
Last edited:
Slide cracks are not so common, but 1911s with cracked frames are relatively common. They can crack right at the takedown pin hole due to frame battering from worn out or weak springs.
 
Scorch that's interesting. I always thought that the slide was more susceptible to cracking cause it's the other half of the gun moving.
 
I'm a firm believer in shock buffers for M1911 pistols. Many people are not. As far as I'm concerned, and I'm no expert, a shock buffer will add to the life span of a firearm. If a shock buffer is available for any of my guns, it has one in it. Even my AK has a shock buffer. Two of my pistols come from the factory with consumable rubber shock buffers, and they are .22LR and .32 wadcutter.
 
I always thought that the slide was more susceptible to cracking cause it's the other half of the gun moving.

Its not moving that is the problem, its the sudden STOP, and in both directions that is the usual cause of problems.

When you get solid metal to metal contact, the force is applied to both parts. The smaller, thinner one is the one that usually fails first.
 
A shock buffer can help ease the impact stress, but I wouldn't use one except at the range. It is possible for them to cause function issues and there's just no reason to risk that in a gun that is on self-defense duty since they are so easily removed and re-installed.
 
I believe that both parts are moving, even if one is bolted down to an immovable object, since motion is relative:
Two cars pass each other going opposite directions...both are traveling 55 mph....but their relative speed is 110 mph. In the case of the pistol, the two parts are hammering each other.
 
I have a Caspian slide/frame gun with 50k rounds through it, and a Colt/Colt with 20k, neither has cracked.

I tried buffers in both, but the first gun showed virtually no wear on the buff even after 1000 rounds, so I decided that gun didn't need any buffering, and the other gun has sharp edges on the slide that cut a plastic buff badly after a couple of hundred rounds, and I didn't want changing buffers to be a weekly thing, so stopped using them in that gun, too.
 
You know what's interesting?

The race built CZ Shadow use a buffer and comes with extra slide releases because the CZ design beats those up.

What's the opinion of buffers so far in this thread for the 1911? Kinda mixed, but in general they are not equipped with them because if they break the recoil spring could get forked up.
 
I have seen a good number of cracked slides among my friends who compete with 1911/2011s. But, lets look at the context of their pistols. High round counts, relatively low spring weights, fast powders, heavy slugs and often, lightened slides.

I put a buffer, and a spherical bushing and heavier recoil springs in my 1911 when I put the .40 Super barrel in it. For the .45, just a bull barrel, standard bushing, spring and no shock buffs. Do I think it helps? Yes, in that application. But with a standard .45 ACP load, unless something is built wrong, it won't change the life of the gun at all. What wears still slides on metal and the stresses are nowhere near yield strength.

When you move to an aluminum (alloy) frame, you have a totally different animal as every cycle uses up one of the total life cycles (at a given stress level) of the material. So, with an alloy frame, yes, you can gain some additional life by using a shok buff.

A good number of cracked barrels, slides and frames I have been tasked with determining failure mode came down to a common answer of design/manufacturing error that resulted in a stress concentration. Sometimes the design had stress relief cuts incorporated and the machinist did something else and sometimes the machinist executed the design as provided, which lacked relief cuts. Radiuses, fillets and chamfers are stress mitigating cuts. Sharp and square cuts create the stress concentrations where cracks initiate.
 
My Wilson Combat ( 5" protector model, all stainless, in 9mm ) developed a crack in the slide in year 15 - with around 310,000 rds thru it / it was not visible to me, but Wilson found it upon inspection when I sent the gun to them for a new barrel. Wilson had serviced the gun a year earlier - for a broken extractor and they did not notice the crack at that time...so I'm assuming it developed around 300,000 rds...

Wilson did not recommend a shok buff on that gun in 9mm...

I'm not a competition shooter ....I just shoot that gun a lot ....and its my primary carry gun / all the rds thru it were my reloads in 115gr FMJ at standard velocities (mid range of min and max using Titegroup powder) and I've always used a 13# spring in the gun.

Wilson warranted the replacement / milled a new slide for me at no cost - and the gunsmith that did the work said it was not common to see cracked slides ...but he sees a few from time to time.
 
I tried shock buffers. My 1911 would not run with one in. Took up too much space. They are cheap, try it. If your gun runs with one i would use it just in case. If your nor able to run a buffer, mare sure you keep your recoil spring changed at regular intervals. And you could look into extra power springs to tune it to run reliably, but softer.
 
Last edited:
High round counts, relatively low spring weights, fast powders, heavy slugs and often, lightened slides.
I too would expect excessive wear in this instance, but I wouldn't fault a gun, so modified, for failing.

In my experience (since 1966), and after owning better than a dozen 1911's in that time, I've never had a cracked slide nor anything else with them; and I haven't heard of any, to include considerable time at Camp Perry discussing gun issues with the various service team armorers. That slides do crack is beyond question, but aside from internet postings, it's not a concern with everyday loads.

Jerry Kuhnhausen's excellent two-volume manual on gunsmithing the 1911 would be an authoritative source for add'l information.

YMMv, of course, Rod
 
Last edited:
I’ve owned many 1911 and bulk were GI issued. I never saw a cracked slide on any. What I have send is two cast slides cracked and it’s been long enough I forget the make. I have also seen pics of slides cracked so I guess it do happen. On quality brand 1911 it would most probably be due to the individual slide. Impurity in steel, heat treat, ect. In other words a random happening.
 
Back
Top