how are jacketed bullets made?
- Thread starter xandi
- Start date
Marco Califo
New member
You don't make them.
You buy them in a box, or bag.
They are made in an industrial process you can not duplicate:
Pressure forming the copper cup.
Cutting an exact aount of lead for the core.
Pressing the two together.
Pushing them through a sizing die.
Clean and polish.
Weigh and remove any out of spec.
Then, there are the metallurgy, chemistry, and application of temperature factors to be inserted above.
You buy them in a box, or bag.
They are made in an industrial process you can not duplicate:
Pressure forming the copper cup.
Cutting an exact aount of lead for the core.
Pressing the two together.
Pushing them through a sizing die.
Clean and polish.
Weigh and remove any out of spec.
Then, there are the metallurgy, chemistry, and application of temperature factors to be inserted above.
nemesiss45
New member
You can make jacketed bullets at home, but the equipment is not cheap, and the process is not quick.... ill keep buying factory jacketed bullets. If i cant buy them, ill shoot lead.
I'm really dating myself here but when I was young we had short TV segments called 'Industry On Parade' that showed how things were made.
But now there's Youtube which is more convenient. Here's a four minute one on 'How Bullets Are Made' that shows a little bit about how Sierra does it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hkr1NS7bEUU
But now there's Youtube which is more convenient. Here's a four minute one on 'How Bullets Are Made' that shows a little bit about how Sierra does it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hkr1NS7bEUU
I'll add this one from Hornady which shows the multiple jacket forming steps in more detail, though for some reason the narrator refers to a boat tail as a "wedge", and it fails to show the lead swaging step detailed so well in the Sierra video, and then the finished bullet shown is a flat base bullet and not the boat tail type shown in the jacket forming steps.
Of interest in addition to the bullet is the Hornady case forming steps. These include a final annealing, which goes further down the case body than is done with most military ammo. They skip over the fact the full annealing step is done more than once during forming the brass, typically, unless they've got an alloy that lets them skip some of those. They omit the initial punching of the brass into the cups they make cases from. The test gun they show is fired electronically, and they show how the test ammo is loaded (note the end of stroke double-tap on the powder measure) and how carefully the test technician is to keep the powder over the primer by how he handles and loads the round.
Of interest in addition to the bullet is the Hornady case forming steps. These include a final annealing, which goes further down the case body than is done with most military ammo. They skip over the fact the full annealing step is done more than once during forming the brass, typically, unless they've got an alloy that lets them skip some of those. They omit the initial punching of the brass into the cups they make cases from. The test gun they show is fired electronically, and they show how the test ammo is loaded (note the end of stroke double-tap on the powder measure) and how carefully the test technician is to keep the powder over the primer by how he handles and loads the round.
FrankenMauser
New member
There are also a fair number of "jacketed" bullets on the market that are plated. The cores are formed, and then cleaned and copper plated.
Then they are typically struck (run into a die or series of dies) at least once for shape. For a thicker jacket, they will be cleaned again and plated at least one more time.
Finally, they are struck for the last time, giving the finished profile and appropriate nose. In the case of a hollow point or soft point, the nose will be struck multiple times (while the body is supported) to breach the plating and then get the lead to flow to fill out the desired shape.
Some plated hollow points are designed to expand in game (like Speer Gold Dots / Deep Curls). Others are not (like Berry's or Xtreme).
And...
Speer actually injects molten lead into the jacket of their "Hot-Cor" line of bullets, before striking them for nose profile. No solid cores are used.
But there are alternatives if the nose profile doesn't need to be one of the traditional shapes...
I make .44 caliber bullets from .40 S&W, and I'm currently working out the bugs for making .475" bullets from .45 Auto and the "8x57mm family" of rifle cartridges. (Cutting the bases off of scrapped 8x57, .30-06, .270, .308, etc...)
Total equipment cost to be up and running for the .44 bullets was about $18. ($5 7x57mm die set and $13 bullet sizing kit.)
Everything else was on-hand.
So far, I'm into the .475" equipment for about $55.
(6.5-284 Norma sizing die, .452" bullet sizing kit, and used Lee .500 S&W expander die that I modified - but it turned out to not be helpful.)
And since declaring my love for the .44 caliber version 4 years ago, I have bought several cheap molds for casting pure lead cores (~$23 apiece); bought some drill rod for better ejection punches ($3-5 / 3-4 feet); and recently built a lead wire cutter ($12.68 out of pocket).
Lead wire (or cast bullet), plus .40 S&W case expanded to .44 caliber (0.430"):
(A cylindrical core works better - this image is from the "proof of concept" phase.)
Seat the core in the jacket by running the pair into a 7x57mm sizing die base-first with a Lee 0.428" bottom punch ("bullet pusher" according to Lee):
Turn the filled jacket around and run it back into the die mouth-first. Beat on the ejection punch in the top of the die, and out pops a usable bullet:
(These were the first 5 bullets made, while proving the process. So they're a little more inconsistent that later "production" examples.)
With a little fine-tuning and a final sizing for the intended application, they're great in .444 Marlin:
(Primers get ejected backward by lead being extruded through the flash hole upon impact.)
I also experimented with bonding the core to the jacket by cleaning and fluxing the .40 S&W case and then melting the proper-weight core in the case. But I found it to be unnecessary.
Recovered from a bull elk, with a 2,332 fps muzzle velocity and ~75 foot range to target (standard construction - not bonded):
Where it all started: Something New to Play With
(Warning: That thread can be convoluted, disjointed, and repetitive.)
Then they are typically struck (run into a die or series of dies) at least once for shape. For a thicker jacket, they will be cleaned again and plated at least one more time.
Finally, they are struck for the last time, giving the finished profile and appropriate nose. In the case of a hollow point or soft point, the nose will be struck multiple times (while the body is supported) to breach the plating and then get the lead to flow to fill out the desired shape.
Some plated hollow points are designed to expand in game (like Speer Gold Dots / Deep Curls). Others are not (like Berry's or Xtreme).
And...
Speer actually injects molten lead into the jacket of their "Hot-Cor" line of bullets, before striking them for nose profile. No solid cores are used.
Proper swaging dies are a little pricey.nemesiss45 said:
But there are alternatives if the nose profile doesn't need to be one of the traditional shapes...
I make .44 caliber bullets from .40 S&W, and I'm currently working out the bugs for making .475" bullets from .45 Auto and the "8x57mm family" of rifle cartridges. (Cutting the bases off of scrapped 8x57, .30-06, .270, .308, etc...)
Total equipment cost to be up and running for the .44 bullets was about $18. ($5 7x57mm die set and $13 bullet sizing kit.)
Everything else was on-hand.
So far, I'm into the .475" equipment for about $55.
(6.5-284 Norma sizing die, .452" bullet sizing kit, and used Lee .500 S&W expander die that I modified - but it turned out to not be helpful.)
And since declaring my love for the .44 caliber version 4 years ago, I have bought several cheap molds for casting pure lead cores (~$23 apiece); bought some drill rod for better ejection punches ($3-5 / 3-4 feet); and recently built a lead wire cutter ($12.68 out of pocket).
Lead wire (or cast bullet), plus .40 S&W case expanded to .44 caliber (0.430"):
(A cylindrical core works better - this image is from the "proof of concept" phase.)
Seat the core in the jacket by running the pair into a 7x57mm sizing die base-first with a Lee 0.428" bottom punch ("bullet pusher" according to Lee):
Turn the filled jacket around and run it back into the die mouth-first. Beat on the ejection punch in the top of the die, and out pops a usable bullet:
(These were the first 5 bullets made, while proving the process. So they're a little more inconsistent that later "production" examples.)
With a little fine-tuning and a final sizing for the intended application, they're great in .444 Marlin:
(Primers get ejected backward by lead being extruded through the flash hole upon impact.)
I also experimented with bonding the core to the jacket by cleaning and fluxing the .40 S&W case and then melting the proper-weight core in the case. But I found it to be unnecessary.
Recovered from a bull elk, with a 2,332 fps muzzle velocity and ~75 foot range to target (standard construction - not bonded):
Where it all started: Something New to Play With
(Warning: That thread can be convoluted, disjointed, and repetitive.)
I know we try to give good complete answers on here ..and the above is a good description with a lot of detail ....but we may have new reloaders on here ....and "plated" and "jacketed" bullets are two different things.
I understand a lot of shooters consider plated bullets...to be about the same...as jacketed bullets, but they're really not. There are some "plated" bullets that are high quality like Berry's ...and a bunch of others that are not very consistent. A lot of plated bullets have lower velocity limitations than a true jacketed bullet.
So most plated bullets ( like Berry's or Rainier ) will need to be reloaded to different specs than a true jacketed bullet ( like Montana Gold) .
I understand a lot of shooters consider plated bullets...to be about the same...as jacketed bullets, but they're really not. There are some "plated" bullets that are high quality like Berry's ...and a bunch of others that are not very consistent. A lot of plated bullets have lower velocity limitations than a true jacketed bullet.
So most plated bullets ( like Berry's or Rainier ) will need to be reloaded to different specs than a true jacketed bullet ( like Montana Gold) .
How are jacket bullets made?
I use to make many jacketed bench rest bullets. It started out cutting slugs of lead wire to the weight I wanted. Then running them thru a squirt die to size them, make them uniform weight and form the bottom of the lead slug to match the inside bottom of the purchased jackets. The slug was inserted inside the jacket and run thru a die to completely fill the jacket and expand the jacket to the correct dia. and form the bottom of the bullet. The next die formed the completed bullet shape.
I'm going by memory here and hope I haven't left anything out.
Just wondering
Thx for helping
I use to make many jacketed bench rest bullets. It started out cutting slugs of lead wire to the weight I wanted. Then running them thru a squirt die to size them, make them uniform weight and form the bottom of the lead slug to match the inside bottom of the purchased jackets. The slug was inserted inside the jacket and run thru a die to completely fill the jacket and expand the jacket to the correct dia. and form the bottom of the bullet. The next die formed the completed bullet shape.
I'm going by memory here and hope I haven't left anything out.
Jim Watson
New member
I don't know of anybody drawing his own jackets from sheet metal.
You can either improvise as FrankenMauser shows, or use .22 empties for .224 or 6mm jackets like Speer started out with, or buy high quality jackets by J4.
While Speer Gold Dot, TMJ, Deep Curl, and Fusion bullets are made by an electroplating process, the plating is thick enough to serve as well as a drawn jacket. Bulk plinking bullets have a much thinner copper surface.
Berry's is advertising a Hybrid Hollowpoint they say will expand reliably. Looks like a Gold Dot copy, the patents have surely run out.
Remington used to sell Powerlokt rifle bullets that were plated. I still have some of their 50 gr .224s and they are very accurate. The cannelured 55 grs are not as accurate.
You can either improvise as FrankenMauser shows, or use .22 empties for .224 or 6mm jackets like Speer started out with, or buy high quality jackets by J4.
While Speer Gold Dot, TMJ, Deep Curl, and Fusion bullets are made by an electroplating process, the plating is thick enough to serve as well as a drawn jacket. Bulk plinking bullets have a much thinner copper surface.
Berry's is advertising a Hybrid Hollowpoint they say will expand reliably. Looks like a Gold Dot copy, the patents have surely run out.
Remington used to sell Powerlokt rifle bullets that were plated. I still have some of their 50 gr .224s and they are very accurate. The cannelured 55 grs are not as accurate.
FWIW, FMJ and open point bullets are made by essentially the same process. FMJ bullets have the jacket cup drawn with a point at one end and open at the other; the core is inserted, pressed into the jacket and then the jacket is swaged to retain the core. With open-point bullets, the jacket is closed at the rear, the core inserted in the front, and the bullet swaged and shaped to leave the nose open or with some lead exposed (or some type of point installed).
Jim
Jim
FrankenMauser
New member
Absolutely true. That's why I used quotation marks around the word, "jacketed".
...Because there are a selection of bullets on the market that are advertised, loaded, and used as "jacketed" bullets; and they do perform as such. But they are, in fact, of plated origin.
Speer Gold Dots and Deep Curls are the best examples of such.
And, speaking of the "deviations" and variations that may or may not fall into the discussion, there's a whole can of worms that could be opened by discussing the various methods for creating frangible bullets - particularly those with compressed wire, powdered metal, compressed shot, or sintered cores. Getting through all of that is quite a trip down the rabbit hole...
"You can either improvise as FrankenMauser shows, or use .22 empties for .224 or 6mm jackets like Speer started out with"
That's what I was thinking about,
How would I do that?
FrankenMauser that's awesome what you make out of those 40 cases, I saw that thread and it is what got me thinking about this stuff
That's what I was thinking about,
How would I do that?
FrankenMauser that's awesome what you make out of those 40 cases, I saw that thread and it is what got me thinking about this stuff
Jim Watson
New member
FrankenMauser gives a pretty good tutorial on making .44 jackets out of .40 empties. There are some other combinations.
Making .22 brass into jackets is a little more involved and you can spend a lot of money for the equipment to use free jacket material. I think both Corbins (brothers in competition with each other) sell the gear.
There are a lot of youtube and internet posts on the subject. Free materials get a lot of attention.
Making .22 brass into jackets is a little more involved and you can spend a lot of money for the equipment to use free jacket material. I think both Corbins (brothers in competition with each other) sell the gear.
There are a lot of youtube and internet posts on the subject. Free materials get a lot of attention.
FrankenMauser
New member
You'd need a set of dies made for the process. --For each diameter and nose profile desired.
There are several dozen companies (mostly one-man-show type of places) that offer the dies. Generally, you're looking at $900+ for the minimum equipment to get started with dies that work in a reloading press. Bump that to about $1,800+ to get started with a swaging press (much more heavy duty, much better leverage, much stronger).
The basic process (and enough extra information to thoroughly confuse you) is available on the Corbins website: "Free" .224 or 6mm bullets.
I have omitted some of the optional steps, and not gone into detail about how various designs might change the process, but here is the basic order of operations:
1. Wash, rinse, and dry brass thoroughly.
2. Anneal the cases.
3. Run through de-rimming die (smooth out the rim so the case is a cup shape).
4. Prepare cores (cut wire or cast with a core mold, and adjust for desired weight).
5. Wash, rinse, and dry the jackets thoroughly.
6. Seat the cores in the jackets.
7. Form the ogive.
8. Point-form if making exposed lead tip soft points.
9. Wash, rinse, and dry thoroughly.
10. Load and shoot at ~3,800 fps or less.
When making bullets larger than .224", additional steps are required with .22 Long Rifle (expanding) and .17 HMR (cutting) to make the jackets usable.
And when making .224" bullets with .22 WMR, .22 WRF, and .17 HMR, additional drawing dies are required to reduce the jacket to the proper diameter (and cutting the shoulder off .17 HMR).
I like the idea, and I have been saving rimfire brass for about 8 years, with the intent of swaging primarily 6mm bullets. I mean I really, really, REALLY want to do it. ...But I can't justify nearly $2k for the equipment, even if the swaging press can be used for other things afterward (like making higher quality .44 Mag / .444 Marlin bullets).
For $2,000 I can buy a lot of bullets.
At current prices and "retail" package quantities, for example, I can buy more than 15,000 .224" 52 gr Hornady BTHPs.
Or, I can get more than 17,000 6mm 55 gr Nosler Varmageddon HPs.
That's a lot of bullets ... that I don't have to put any time, energy, or resources (other than money) into before I can load and shoot.
If you want to look into it further, the most well-known but still affordable companies will be:
BT Sniper (castboolits forums)
RCE (Richard Corbin)
Corbins (Dave Corbin)
Larry Blackmon (forget the company name)
Average wait time once the order is placed will range from 6-8 months (BT / RCE), to up to 3 years (Corbins / Blackmon); depending upon their current workload and the product(s) desired.
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