Horrible trigger on Ruger GP .357 - fixes?

I

IMtheNRA

New member
I saw what at first appeared to be a great deal on a 6" stainless version in the used case at the shop for $269. But when I tried the trigger in single action, it was surprisingly heavy and extremely gritty. It felt like two or three "rough spots" before the hammer finally fell. It is not just different from the *&* trigger that I'm used to, it really does feel defective. Also, the hammer itself is scuffed on the left lower side, like it is rubbing against the frame or something inside. I'm convinced there is something seriously wrongh with this thing.

At this low price however, I don't mind tinkering with it to fix the trigger pull and the scuffing problem - but I have no idea what could be causing these issues. (I even dripped oil inside of it at the shop, in case it was too dry.) If all else fails, I can return it to Ruger for a warranty claim and probably end up with a good revolver after a bit of a hassle.

What do you think is wrong with this thing? Should I just stay away from it?
 
Might just have a rough spot that needs to be buffed a little. In March I bought a used but never fired KGP-141 for $269, and it was one great purchase. I actually shoot it better than the 6" S&W 686 I used to own.
 
Ruger GP-100 series revolvers . . .

. . . are reputed generally to have only one deficiency: a less than smooth, crisp trigger-pull. My two GP-100s have improved considerably with use; now, with thousands of round through both, their triggers are fine if not superb.

Here are a few recommendations:
> Dry fire the weapon frequently. The GP-100 is designed for dry firing and this will smooth the action as well as improve your accuracy.
> Have a good smith work on it.
> Use a little Brasso to accelerate the natural "action smoothing" through use; this idea -- which I was very skeptical of -- comes from the wisest most experienced revolver shot at our range. I was reluctant to do it, but it apparently will quickly help smooth the action.

Many of us have extremely high regard for the GP-100, and for excellent reasons. I urge you not to reject the whole series of Ruger revolvers because of one poor trigger.
 
I saw a post some time back that you can submerge the Ruger GP 100 in gasoline(???) and dry fire it a few hundred times, and this will burnish the internal trigger surfaces.

The gent said that he had read it in a gun magazine. Somebody that remembers this better please help me out because I can not remember all the details.

If the hammer has rub marks on the left frame side, you should be able to fix it by installing hammer shims on the hammer stud bearing surface. My S&W was rubbing just like you described, and that is how I fixed it. Now it is no longer rubbing, and it also has no hammer side play. Sling Shot
 
Why not send it back to Ruger? Everything that I have read suggests that they are very responsive to problems with their products. No personal experience though niether of my Rugers have ever had a problem.

Terry
 
My pair of stainless GP's responded to considerable live-and dry-firing; one is now slicker than many a 'smithed gun.

Just keep shooting them much and they WILL get better (or send it to Jack Weigand).
 
After adding a set of Wolf springs, dry/live firing a thousand rounds or so I've now got a trigger that's as smooth as any of my S&W's.
 
All the above plus.

Quite a few times I have found horrible trigger on used gun. Most of the time a clean and re-lube made a BIG difference.

Sam
 
I second the suggestions to either send the gun back to Ruger, or to send it to Jack Weigand for one of his action jobs...I've got an SP-101 that Weigand worked over--UNBELIEVABLE!-for a RUGER, anyway!!!....mikey357
 
what sk said.269 i bought mine brand new ss 6 inch barrel 3 years ago for 320.have they gone up that much.
if i am only saving 100 bucks ,i just assume buy brand new.
 
Ditto what SK wrote....

The Wolf spring set on both of my GP141's and a fair number of dry/live fires and everything smoothed right out. I'll match them with any of my S&W wheel guns. I'm a convert - I love those GP-100's. :D
 
Was not my idea.

Like I mentioned earlier, I had read it right here in this forum. If I remember correctly, the idea of bunishing the internal surfaces, in which I have no claim to fame, were written by a well respected gent. I was just passing along information that was posted in this forum. So in all fairness, please do not associate me with the burnishing process that I posted earlier. Thanks for your consideration, and it is amazing to me what Ruger owners have to go through to get their revolver actions as smooth as my Smiths right out of the box. Sling Shot
 
submerge the Ruger GP 100 in gasoline

That would make some sense. You would be removing any lube
from the trigger assembly, so friction would increase on the trigger parts causeing faster smoothing out of the meshing trigger parts.
Me I like to install some wolff springs and polish the trigger assembly,especially the hammer and sear.


Tony Z
 
I had a GP100 that was awful! I dryfired it 1000 times, then took it completely apart and polished EVERYTHING that had a rub mark on it. Took ofrever, did it carefully with paper,etc by hand. Added Wolf springs, and the difference was totally amazing. It was still *different* than a Smith, but I'm sorry tothis day that I sold it. Don't neglect the sides of the ttrigger and hammer, and the sutff that those sides rub on. DON'T remove too much metal, just enough to get the rub marks out. I didn't worry about trigger sideplay or hammer sideplay (there was some), since the action was soooo smooth once this was done.

Now for the part I shouldn't have done. I also stoned the trigger/hammer engagement surfaces, by eye, without any experience. I tried only to smooth the surface without affecting the angleor anyhting else. I got lucky and it worked beautifully, but the advice I got, and it's good advice, is:

DO NOT DO THIS! It's a job for an expert.

Showed my Smith smith how to do rugers, and now he's doing it, too.

YMMV,

Steve
 
You got the std Ruger trigger pull.

While I do not doubt the veracity of the guys who said the trigger got better with age, I call BS on the ones who said they became excellent, crisp, or superb. Ain't no such animal in a Ruger.

Still, it's hard to fault something as cheap as a Ruger. Maybe that's why people buy them. :( I can't think of any other reason. (Nomex on)
 
BigG....

if snob appeal is your bag, go for the high dollar heaters. "A fool and his money are soon parted". :D

As for me, since I have both Rugers and S&W, I'll match the Rugers against any of my S&W's for just pure shooting, trigger pull, whatever. ;) (Thank God for Nomex)
 
I prefer the feel of my Ruger revolvers, but money had zero affect on my buying decision.
I was buying TOOLS, so I bought the best tool for the job.

Know what I mean?

(In a blind trigger test that included over ten guns of varying 44 Magnum models --29's, 629's, Anaconda's, Raging Bull's, Dan Wesson-- my brand-new-just-pulled-out-of-the-box recent-manufacture (at the time) stainless Redhawk was judged best for DA pull.

SA -- yes, a different story, but when was the last time I fired SA? Not-for-IPSC....




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"all my handguns are actual useful not-invented-in-my-head handguns"
 
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