Hornady LNL AP
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Carriertxv
New member
Can't help you with a Dillion but have had the Hornady since spring and has worked great. Not sure if you have heard of Bill Morgan but here is the link to his videos he did for fine tuning the LNL. Mine worked ok but after doing what he suggests it has not had any issues unless primer slide gets dirty.
I don't have case or bullet feeders so can't help you with that. The free bullets brought the cost down and took about 7 weeks to get. I suggest watching his videos and then decide if a LNL will work for you before making a decision either way.
No matter what you may think of him what he says works and works well.
He has made videos on the Dillion stuff and Redding.
I'm sure all the Dillion owners will be along shortly to tell you to buy Dillion.
https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLByND7BRp-e0J7qDS_C9gIzfzEWzn10Hl
I don't have case or bullet feeders so can't help you with that. The free bullets brought the cost down and took about 7 weeks to get. I suggest watching his videos and then decide if a LNL will work for you before making a decision either way.
No matter what you may think of him what he says works and works well.
He has made videos on the Dillion stuff and Redding.
I'm sure all the Dillion owners will be along shortly to tell you to buy Dillion.
https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLByND7BRp-e0J7qDS_C9gIzfzEWzn10Hl
Crunchy Frog
New member
I have one so I will jump in.
The most comparable Dillon is the 650, of course; both are five station auto indexing progressive presses. Let me say that everyone I know who has a Dillon loves it. I only know one other shooter in my area who has an LNL-AP.
Cost is a "pro". The LNL-AP is a pretty good bargain; I see them on sale in the $400 range from time to time. Yes, you get 500 "free" (you pay shipping) bullets as a rebate but my bullets are sitting on top of my cabinet so I've not realized any value from them yet. The cost of changing over to load a different caliber is less on the Hornady than on the Dillon, so the more calibers you load the more you save.
One caveat: If you price the press plus a casefeeder, the price gap between the LNL-AP and the 650 closes considerably.
Another plus is the way that the press indexes in two steps: halfway when the ram is raised and the rest of the way when the ram descends. Supposed to be smoother than the Dillon but probably not by much.
I like the way the cases are retained by a single spring. You can easily remove and replace a case at any station.
The LNL-AP's powder measure uses a rotating drum. Dillon's is a bar that slides horizontally. I am more used to the drum type measure, having used a similar RCBS measure for years. I like the design better but is it really superior?
I suppose I'd better throw in a "con". Many of Hornady's parts are unplated steel that is prone to rust, especially if you keep your press in a less than ideal environment.
The most comparable Dillon is the 650, of course; both are five station auto indexing progressive presses. Let me say that everyone I know who has a Dillon loves it. I only know one other shooter in my area who has an LNL-AP.
Cost is a "pro". The LNL-AP is a pretty good bargain; I see them on sale in the $400 range from time to time. Yes, you get 500 "free" (you pay shipping) bullets as a rebate but my bullets are sitting on top of my cabinet so I've not realized any value from them yet. The cost of changing over to load a different caliber is less on the Hornady than on the Dillon, so the more calibers you load the more you save.
One caveat: If you price the press plus a casefeeder, the price gap between the LNL-AP and the 650 closes considerably.
Another plus is the way that the press indexes in two steps: halfway when the ram is raised and the rest of the way when the ram descends. Supposed to be smoother than the Dillon but probably not by much.
I like the way the cases are retained by a single spring. You can easily remove and replace a case at any station.
The LNL-AP's powder measure uses a rotating drum. Dillon's is a bar that slides horizontally. I am more used to the drum type measure, having used a similar RCBS measure for years. I like the design better but is it really superior?
I suppose I'd better throw in a "con". Many of Hornady's parts are unplated steel that is prone to rust, especially if you keep your press in a less than ideal environment.
Carriertxv
New member
Crunchy yup you're right about the rust but I give mine a few shots of One Shot and keep it covered with a cotton towel and have had no more rust issues.
gunfighter48
New member
I just got back into reloading after A 15 year break. I spent 2 months going over all the YouTube videos I could find on both the Dillon and Hornady progressive presses. I paid particular attention to the videos that showed the problems and cures for both presses. After all that and reading all the reviews on both presses, I bought the Hornady Ammo Plant. (Hornady LNL AP press with case feeder and I also bought the bullet feeder.)
Each brand has it's idiosyncrasies and quirks. I feel that the Hornady has less problems than the Dillon and are easier to work on to cure the problems. I also like the Hornady die bushing setup. Makes caliber changes very quick and easy. I'm still in the setup mode with my LNL press but I really like it a lot. It's very smooth and functions just great.
I'll be doing a couple of simple mods that I've seen on YouTube to make it even smoother in operation. But each of us has to make their own choice. Dillon promotes their presses extensively, some would say to ad nauseum. But I'm sure it helps their sales! And they have a large fan base!!!! YMMV
Each brand has it's idiosyncrasies and quirks. I feel that the Hornady has less problems than the Dillon and are easier to work on to cure the problems. I also like the Hornady die bushing setup. Makes caliber changes very quick and easy. I'm still in the setup mode with my LNL press but I really like it a lot. It's very smooth and functions just great.
I'll be doing a couple of simple mods that I've seen on YouTube to make it even smoother in operation. But each of us has to make their own choice. Dillon promotes their presses extensively, some would say to ad nauseum. But I'm sure it helps their sales! And they have a large fan base!!!! YMMV
My Lock N Load is the only press I've owned, so I can't make a comparison. For example, a previous post said the spring around the shell plate made it possible to remove a bullet at any station. I didn't realize there are apparently some presses where that is not possible, but if that's true it would be a disqualifying issue, for me at least.
The press is easy to set up and adjust. My only real complaint is that occasionally a kernel of powder will get caught in the primer slider bar such that the next primer won't seat properly because of alignment problems. It's easy enough to cure that problem with a Q-tip or small dental pick.
I made a home-brew case feeder for mine and it really makes loading a LOT more enjoyable. Because of the steps involved in carefully preparing my rifle cases, I handle them several times per reloading cycle while I touch the bullets only once; so a case feeder makes a lot of sense for me. Of course in true DIY fashion, rather than spend $450 on the commercial product, I was able to build my case feeder for only $550 plus 850 hours of fabrication time.
The press is easy to set up and adjust. My only real complaint is that occasionally a kernel of powder will get caught in the primer slider bar such that the next primer won't seat properly because of alignment problems. It's easy enough to cure that problem with a Q-tip or small dental pick.
I made a home-brew case feeder for mine and it really makes loading a LOT more enjoyable. Because of the steps involved in carefully preparing my rifle cases, I handle them several times per reloading cycle while I touch the bullets only once; so a case feeder makes a lot of sense for me. Of course in true DIY fashion, rather than spend $450 on the commercial product, I was able to build my case feeder for only $550 plus 850 hours of fabrication time.
Dragonflydf
New member
I have the LnL with a case feeder and use it to load about 15 different calibers, everything from 30 mauser to 45-70, I also use it to pull down ammo using a collet puller and form 30-06 brass into 8mm Mauser. The hardest part of changing dies is setting up the powder measure, but that can be made simpler by keeping a measuring insert for each caliber (they are about $10), and noting which drop tubes and how they are used. The die boxes are large enough to hold the shell holder, powder measure insert along with the dies.
schmellba99
New member
Both are great, both have problems, both load awesome rounds.
I have the LNL, but have spent a little bit of time on the Dillon blue ones as well. For me, the LNL just had a few more positives and a few less negatives.
I've had to tweak mine in a couple of places, and I've had to outright modify the priming system to some degree. But since then, it's done nothing but work and work well for me.
I don't have a case or bullet feeder, so it's still relatively simple in terms of complexity, and I don't get all wrapped up over mythical rounds per hour numbers people love to brag about on the internet. I worry about making quality ammo - and it does it very well for less than what a Dillon would have run me, and most of the parts are fairly readily available.
Hornady's customer service has been top notch the couple of times I've used it as well. And I bought mine when they had 1000 free projectiles, so that was also pretty nice.
I have the LNL, but have spent a little bit of time on the Dillon blue ones as well. For me, the LNL just had a few more positives and a few less negatives.
I've had to tweak mine in a couple of places, and I've had to outright modify the priming system to some degree. But since then, it's done nothing but work and work well for me.
I don't have a case or bullet feeder, so it's still relatively simple in terms of complexity, and I don't get all wrapped up over mythical rounds per hour numbers people love to brag about on the internet. I worry about making quality ammo - and it does it very well for less than what a Dillon would have run me, and most of the parts are fairly readily available.
Hornady's customer service has been top notch the couple of times I've used it as well. And I bought mine when they had 1000 free projectiles, so that was also pretty nice.
Carriertxv
New member
schmellba99 what is it you had to modify to the priming system?
I have had a LNL since March and I have been loading on it regularly. I don't have a case or bullet feeder.
Pros: - It has loaded .380, .40, .223, .270, and 30-06 with no problems.
- The ez-ject case retention spring makes it easy to remove cases from the shellplate for inspection and charge weighing.
- Accessories are available at the Bass Pro shop that is very close to me.
- The powder measure is extremely reliable.
Cons: - The primer shuttle has to be kept clean. I keep a little brush nearby to get powder out of the track.
Pros: - It has loaded .380, .40, .223, .270, and 30-06 with no problems.
- The ez-ject case retention spring makes it easy to remove cases from the shellplate for inspection and charge weighing.
- Accessories are available at the Bass Pro shop that is very close to me.
- The powder measure is extremely reliable.
Cons: - The primer shuttle has to be kept clean. I keep a little brush nearby to get powder out of the track.
bluetopper
New member
I've had my LNL for a few years now. I have no desire for the case feeder or bullet feeder. You have to load the bullets and cases in the feeders by hand, so what's the advantage? I'm not after speed and I do just fine.
On the large and small primer sleds, chamfer slightly the hole that the primer drops in with a small round file. Primers will feed much better.
On the large and small primer sleds, chamfer slightly the hole that the primer drops in with a small round file. Primers will feed much better.
schmellba99
New member
Two things:
1) - I polished the primer shuttle and chase to smooth out some imperfections. This is an aluminum part, so it doesn't take much. Mine had a couple of little rough spots that seemed to bind up every now and again, so a dremel, 3 or 4 minutes and then a brush with some moly really smoothed out the operation.
2) - In my opinion, Hornady has a simple design flaw with their priming system (seems every manufacturer does). I will use the part numbers from their O&M Manual to keep things as uniform as I can and use the right nomenclature.
Part No. 14 - Housing Body Primer Tube (this is the part that bolts to Part No. 24 - Sub Plate)
Part No. 4/5 - Primer Tube (Large/Small)
Basically Part No. 14 bolts to the Part No. 24 and then holds the primer tubes (Parts No. 4/5). Each primer tube has a small shoulder machined on one end that sits inside of Part No. 14. You then fill the primer tube, screw on the blast shield and rock and roll. Sounds great in theory.
What I was experiencing is that, especially with a full primer tube (Part No. 4/5), the motion up and down of the entire assembly was creating just enough inertia and friction to eventually unseat the primer tube (Part No. 4/5) from the Housing Body Primer Tube (Part No. 14). What then would happen is that the primers would come out of their neat little stack and I'd end up with a hell of a jam in the system - and it only compounded itself when i'd unscrew the blast shield that was containing the primers. Primers everywhere, cuss words galore from schmellba99.
So I simplified the system by turning 2 parts into 1 - I ordered a new Part No. 14 (I have 2 of them now) and epoxied the large primer tube into one of them and the small primer tube into the other. The only real change is that when I change from large to small or vice versa, I now have to unscrew the entire assembly from the sub plate instead of just pulling the large or small tube out of Part No. 14. In all reality, it makes absolutely zero difference in the amount of time to change over from one to the other in my opinion. But now that the entire assembly is one unit, the tubes cannot back out of the housing and my primer system problems have all but disappeared.
The only thing I do now is what somebody above alluded to - keep the shuttle clean, which I always take a few seconds to do every 100 or so rounds (basically when it's time to add more primers - use a brush or a can of compressed air and clean any grit, carbon or powder kernels out of the entire shell plate and primer shuttle area).
Picture of the housing assembly and primer tube epoxied (I used simple JB Weld) together to make one unit instead of two pieces:
Picture of the primer tube and housing where it bolts to the sub plate. That single allen headed bolt (behind the blast shield - you can see part of it) is what needs to be removed and replaced when switching from one size primer to the other. Also shows the shuttle and chase area that I polished lightly and added some dry lube:
Carriertxv
New member
The polishing part I did before I used the press. Took any sharp edges off the shuttle and used polish on it and the slide. I've never had any issues with the tubes coming out of the body though. Will keep that in mind if I do.
Ole 5 hole group
New member
I have the LnL and have no problems with its use. I purchased 2 powder measures for ease of change over from handgun to rifle cartridges. The powder measure is very consistent with most powders. The stick powders are not very consistent but they aren't in any other powder measure either.
To help with the consistency with powder such as Varget - just coat the inside of the powder measure cylinder with graphite.
If you're interested in speed, purchase several more primer tubes, as the most time consuming chore is loading the primer tubes.
If you don't reload in a temperature controlled environment, you need to coat your LnL with one shot HD Extreme a couple times a year.
To help with the consistency with powder such as Varget - just coat the inside of the powder measure cylinder with graphite.
If you're interested in speed, purchase several more primer tubes, as the most time consuming chore is loading the primer tubes.
If you don't reload in a temperature controlled environment, you need to coat your LnL with one shot HD Extreme a couple times a year.
Dragonflydf
New member
no need for extra tubes, get a Vibra prime tube filler from Frankfort Arsenal,
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Frankford-Arsenal-reg-Vibra-Prime-Automatic-Primer-Tube-Filler/1600065.uts
Loads a 100 primers in minute
Both case feeder and bullet feeder have a collator, so you just dump the brass or bullets in the hopper, and you're on your way. Even with a simpler bullet feeder using the Bully adapter and Lee four tube setup, you will maintain a better rhythm loading and make up for the time loading the tubes. You won't be so busy either, just pulling the handle and supervising the stations.